Have fuel and spark, no start!? long, sorry.. *SOLVED!*
#47
Burning Brakes
Ziff, You have a timing problem. Either that or the firing order is out. I know you said you have checked all these things several times, but when you pulled the plugs and they had soot on them, that's a sign in my opinion. Also, you mentioned that the motor sounded like it wanted to fire a couple of times while cranking it.
#48
Instructor
Thread Starter
Sid, compression was:
1- 135
2- 135
3- 135
4- 127ish
400, I just lined up the camshaft mark again, and the flywheel is dead on the line. Also, it may not have wanted to fire as much as it sounded maybe like a pop of left over compression, or something. The tailpipe also smells like gas after those little pops. And the plug wires are in the correct oder, as per Clark's, Haynes, and the diagram in the earlier posts on this thread....triple checked..;-).
I'm gonna check the wiring harness to the injectors. I have had the rail off a few times and maybe the wires are toast. Also the wire on the dme temp connector. With 40psi on the rail gauge, maybe I'm barely getting fuel out of the injectors? I cranked them onto the valve cover and there were some good sprays, though.
I don't know what the hell is going on...if I have fuel and spark, is there anything else that would keep it from firing?
1- 135
2- 135
3- 135
4- 127ish
400, I just lined up the camshaft mark again, and the flywheel is dead on the line. Also, it may not have wanted to fire as much as it sounded maybe like a pop of left over compression, or something. The tailpipe also smells like gas after those little pops. And the plug wires are in the correct oder, as per Clark's, Haynes, and the diagram in the earlier posts on this thread....triple checked..;-).
I'm gonna check the wiring harness to the injectors. I have had the rail off a few times and maybe the wires are toast. Also the wire on the dme temp connector. With 40psi on the rail gauge, maybe I'm barely getting fuel out of the injectors? I cranked them onto the valve cover and there were some good sprays, though.
I don't know what the hell is going on...if I have fuel and spark, is there anything else that would keep it from firing?
#50
Burning Brakes
Hmm. I did the DME plug 13 resistance test from Clark's and it passed with about 3 K-ohms... Would it still pass that and be able to have that prob?
Also, I hooked up a new gauge to the fuel rail and it wouldn't register psi until I jumpered the DME relay...then it went to 40 really quick and stayed there. Put the relay back in and I think I can still hear the fuel pump going, but still no start.
It did make a couple more little pops and 'blubs' out of the exhaust, like it thought about starting for a second...I think that was with my foot on the gas.
I guess I should check that the injectors are firing properly? Is it okay to just unbolt the rail and lay it back over the valve cover and firing the injectors on a towel or something?
Thanks guys..
Stephen
Also, I hooked up a new gauge to the fuel rail and it wouldn't register psi until I jumpered the DME relay...then it went to 40 really quick and stayed there. Put the relay back in and I think I can still hear the fuel pump going, but still no start.
It did make a couple more little pops and 'blubs' out of the exhaust, like it thought about starting for a second...I think that was with my foot on the gas.
I guess I should check that the injectors are firing properly? Is it okay to just unbolt the rail and lay it back over the valve cover and firing the injectors on a towel or something?
Thanks guys..
Stephen
Try and find someone with a spare DME to swap in. I will keep thinking about....
#51
Burning Brakes
Air, Fuel and Ignition source. Sounds like you've done Fuel and Ignition to death. How about a squirrel nest in the exhaust or intake track? Happens in the Northwest. Also the infamous collapsed crossover pipe.
#52
Nordschleife Master
#53
Instructor
Thread Starter
It's been garaged and I had the whole thing apart during the work I did. Plus, I'm in the middle of LA...mostly annoying pocket dogs around here...;-).
#54
Instructor
Thread Starter
I haven't, actually... I just ordered new injector connectors and won't be able to turn it over for another week probably... Also, I never touched or moved the MAF at all...unless a wire got tugged or something.
Is there anything else that could be doing this? If the DME got fried somehow, would the car still turn over but not start due to fuel and ignition being all out of whack? I dunno, just spitballing here...
#55
Instructor
Thread Starter
I'm not 100% sure about this, but if you jumped the relay and got fuel, then put the relay back (thought you heard the fuel pump running) and still no start - Hmmm . When you tested the injectors, was that with the relay in or out? I have had some no start problems in the past that were caused by the relay. Replaced it and it never happened again. Also, you mentioned that the tach was only bouncing about 1/8 of an inch. Shouldn't it bounce most of the way up the gauge? Mine does as I remember... The longer you crank it the higher it gets. Have you replaced the S and R sensors yet?
Try and find someone with a spare DME to swap in. I will keep thinking about....
Try and find someone with a spare DME to swap in. I will keep thinking about....
At least this stupid thing will be completely rewired when I'm done...neat.
#56
Nordschleife Master
I would borrow a stock DME/KLR (or with AFM chips), zero out the ARC 2 or whatever MAF controller you have, unplug the MAF sensor -- and see if it fires. Assuming all the rewiring you're doing doesn't fix it.
#57
Instructor
Thread Starter
Okay, latest update. Still waiting on new injector wires, but I picked up a noid light to test the injector wires anyway. They all checked out....(even though they look bad).. I put plugs in and tried again, nothing.
It seems like the injectors aren't firing, I thought they were, since I pulled the rail and cranked it and had fuel spill out...is there a reason why fuel would come out when the rail/injectors are removed and not when it's installed?
I also pulled one injector plug and it still wouldn't start.
I also replaced the speed and ref sensors just before this and have connected the mutli meter to the dme for the dme temp sensor and it checked out at about 3 k ohms...
I'm stumped...again..
Could it just be the dme or klr got zapped somehow?
Also, Adrial, what do you mean, 'zero out the maf controller'? I have the mafterburner set up from LR.
It seems like the injectors aren't firing, I thought they were, since I pulled the rail and cranked it and had fuel spill out...is there a reason why fuel would come out when the rail/injectors are removed and not when it's installed?
I also pulled one injector plug and it still wouldn't start.
I also replaced the speed and ref sensors just before this and have connected the mutli meter to the dme for the dme temp sensor and it checked out at about 3 k ohms...
I'm stumped...again..
Could it just be the dme or klr got zapped somehow?
Also, Adrial, what do you mean, 'zero out the maf controller'? I have the mafterburner set up from LR.
#58
Instructor
Thread Starter
Back again...pulled the rail to make sure injectors weren't firing...uhhh, yeah, they seem to be...started a small fire.. no damage.. exciting, though.
I swapped in a dme that the PO gave me with the car (no idea of its condition) and the car didn't start, but the tach was jumping a lot. with my current dme, the tach moves a tiny, tiny bit.
and the boost gauge goes to 1 bar...so KLR is good?
man, this sucks...
I swapped in a dme that the PO gave me with the car (no idea of its condition) and the car didn't start, but the tach was jumping a lot. with my current dme, the tach moves a tiny, tiny bit.
and the boost gauge goes to 1 bar...so KLR is good?
man, this sucks...