Euro951

nice setup.. needs more power. Also looks like it was tough to drive fast through the cornes because it was pushing (understeering). Keep us up to date on setup

951_RS

Maybe he could find a way to incorporate a primary gear reduction between the engine and the transmission to reduce the rpm's the transmission sees much like the s2000

IanM

Looking very good. Looks like you've got lots of torque out of the slow corners, which is where our cars (at least mine) really suffers.

vt951

Rene,

Great thread, and cool videos with the super touring class. I am just getting started on my ls swap, and reading your thread I have a couple questions...

1. What kind of headers did you go with? Did you have to "persuade" the frame rail at all to get them to clear on the driver's side?

2. You said you don't like the manual brakes. Do you have big reds/blacks on the car, or the stock '86 951 brakes, or what? I am planning on going manual with big reds and 33/5 bias valve, but you're comments are making me think twice.

Thanks!
Alan

TonyG

I'll chime in since I've been playing with the conversion stuff for a while.



You need power brakes with the conversion. Yes you can go manual but it's borderline unsafe especially on a track.

The Renegade Hybrid headers, included in the kit, are made for the LS1 engine in the 951 chassis and require no modifications. You do have to supply your own header back exhaust system.

TonyG

vt951

Tony, thanks. Are you saying that Rene's headers are from Renegade? Are they the modified Hooker block huggers then?

I think I'm going to have to see for myself on the manual brakes. I've been told that manual works fine with big reds. I can always add "boost" later.

arthropraxis

I have read on the old PHB and here arguments for and against manual brakes. Just for clarification when saying manual brakes are marginally safe exactly what system is being referred to? There is the wilwood tandem master cylinder and then there is the dual master cylinder system.

Rene

I am running the Renegade headers the driver side was fine but on the passenger side we had to make some room. I don’t think the manual brakes are unsafe on the track but, you have to move you braking points back & not trail brake. I am planning to add a bias valve & or go with the willwood system.

arthropraxis

I know if you say you are going to use a proportioning valve that means tandem. So, when you say wilwood system will that be the tandem MC or dual MC? What I am trying to find out is which system people are referring to when they are negative on the manual brakes.

Rene

I can’t comment yet as I haven’t bought it. I have had some suggestions on putting in a proportioning valve on the stock m/c. Someone else recommended the Willwood dual m/c with a bias control valve. Il keep you up to date on what we decide & how it works.

LS1Porch

I have the Wilwood with a manual bias valve. It's better than the stock setup by far...but not great. I have stock turbo calipers.

LS1Porch

I'm probably going to go with the mustang hydroboost as others have. It's cheap and the guys who have it say it'll put your face through the windshield.

V2Rocket

hows the pedal effort?

LS1Porch

Hard as a rock! I moved the clevis hole on the brake pedal up 1" (required), and it still isn't great.

The brakes aren't bad, but i wouldn't want to race on them like this. My plan was to either do the LS430 caliper upgrade (bigger than the "big reds", and much cheaper) or do hydroboost, but i think i'm going to start with hydroboost and go from there.

There's just no getting around it...you need some kind of brake assist on these cars and since there's no room for vacuum, hydroboost is the only choice!

TonyG

You should never have two brake proportioning valves on the same circuit.

Either use the factory style cut over bias valve or use an aftermarket valve, but not both.


And the calipers and brakes you have are not the problem. You need the assist.

TonyG