Notices
944 Turbo and Turbo-S Forum 1982-1991
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Clore Automotive

Tips for dropping rear suspension for TT?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-01-2009, 07:39 PM
  #1  
Tom M'Guinn

Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Tom M'Guinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Just CA Now :)
Posts: 12,567
Received 534 Likes on 287 Posts
Default Tips for dropping rear suspension for TT?

So, I am going to install a newly rebuilt tranny finally, and am contemplating pulling the TT to rebuild. I've reviewed Clark's Garage on pulling the torque tube. Seems easy enough to drop the suspension as a unit (enough to remove TT anyway).

How hard is it to bolt the suspension back in place?

Did you have to break open the brake lines to lower it enough?

Any tips?
Old 11-01-2009, 08:14 PM
  #2  
FRporscheman
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
FRporscheman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San Francisco Area
Posts: 11,014
Received 20 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Clarks garage write up worked for me, and it wasn't that hard to bolt the suspension up again. However I definitely did have to disconnect the brake lines. I didn't see any way to possibly get enough room without doing that.
Old 11-01-2009, 08:18 PM
  #3  
JohnKoaWood
Nordschleife Master
 
JohnKoaWood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fly Away
Posts: 7,759
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I got the TT out of my 88 without opening the lines... just support the suspension pull the hardware pull the TT... it can be done...
Old 11-01-2009, 09:10 PM
  #4  
V2Rocket
Rainman
Rennlist Member
 
V2Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 45,538
Received 646 Likes on 500 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by JohnKoaWood
I got the TT out of my 88 without opening the lines... just support the suspension pull the hardware pull the TT... it can be done...
+1
Old 11-01-2009, 09:23 PM
  #5  
Van
Rennlist Member
 
Van's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hyde Park, NY
Posts: 12,008
Received 92 Likes on 62 Posts
Default

Leave your control arms hanging by the shocks - just remove the torsion bar carrier.
Old 11-01-2009, 10:14 PM
  #6  
Tom M'Guinn

Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Tom M'Guinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Just CA Now :)
Posts: 12,567
Received 534 Likes on 287 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Van
Leave your control arms hanging by the shocks - just remove the torsion bar carrier.
I was thinking of exactly that, since I'm changing the shocks anyway. I trust to still remove all the hardware shown on clarks but instead of coming straight down, you just let it rotate so the torsion bar carrier lowers? Does that give you enough room?
Old 11-01-2009, 10:55 PM
  #7  
Van
Rennlist Member
 
Van's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hyde Park, NY
Posts: 12,008
Received 92 Likes on 62 Posts
Default

Probably easiest if you take the torsion bar carrier off... You'll have to unbolt the control arms from the torsion bar carrier - and remove the 3 bolts from the spring plate.

If you look down to post #14: https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...with-pics.html - you'll see my control arms hanging while I changed all of the bushings.
Old 11-02-2009, 12:10 AM
  #8  
FRporscheman
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
FRporscheman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San Francisco Area
Posts: 11,014
Received 20 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Maybe a 968 is different. I was trying what everyone else said, but I ended up stretching my brake lines and by the time I noticed, they were getting tugged on pretty hard and I just replaced them to be safe. YMMV.
Old 11-08-2009, 08:24 PM
  #9  
Tom M'Guinn

Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Tom M'Guinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Just CA Now :)
Posts: 12,567
Received 534 Likes on 287 Posts
Default

Well, I got it out without disconnecting the brake lines. But I agree the brake lines have to be pulled pretty tight -- so I'll probably go ahead and replace them. For the archives, I pulled the structural support brace (carrier) at the rear of the tunnel (i.e., the one held in place with the four M10 bolts right above the torsion bar tube. I also pulled the aluminum shield in the tunnel, along with the black cross-brace toward the rear of the tunnel. In the end, I had to pry the square flange on the end past some of the alumimum skin in the tunnel, but was i got past the narrow spot, the tt finally slid out. It's definitely a wrestling match!
Old 11-09-2009, 11:59 AM
  #10  
mtnman82
Rennlist Member
 
mtnman82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: S. CA Desert
Posts: 1,601
Received 4 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Are you going to install Constantine's bearings ?
Old 11-10-2009, 01:17 AM
  #11  
Tom M'Guinn

Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Tom M'Guinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Just CA Now :)
Posts: 12,567
Received 534 Likes on 287 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mtnman82
Are you going to install Constantine's bearings ?
That is my first choice, but don't want to keep the car on jack-stands waiting for them. I may just go with the standard rebuild for now. As soon as Constantine's bearings become available, I'll give 'em a try though.



Quick Reply: Tips for dropping rear suspension for TT?



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 05:40 PM.