View Poll Results: if you were doing a V8 swap (street car), which engine would you run ?
LS3 376 c.i. crate - $7,300 (see post #252).
6
15.38%
LS3 376 c.i. crate w/ mild cam - $8,200.
9
23.08%
LS7 427 c.i. w/ LS3 heads/intake - $10,200.
24
61.54%
Voters: 39. You may not vote on this poll
190 mph in a 944 - (talkin' about gears, hp, etc)...
#316
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 28,705
Likes: 213
From: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
Lart gave me a big head start today on getting my soon to be modified gauge cluster sorted.... Then i took his son on a launch through 1st and 2nd gear in the Sledgehammer which has been running at full power (since we swapped the connections of two vaccuun hoses that were incorrectly switched)...
Then the dad (Luis) took me for a launch in that blue 944T he obtained recently... Lighter car than mine by maybe 200~250 lbs...470hp ....that's the fastest car i've ever been in. That ride was terrifying...
Lart was spinning the wheels at 45mph when the afterburners kicked in. Whomever purchases it can have one hell of a 944T engine... and probably longivity if they don't beat on it. If i'm honest' they should just get the whole car and put their desired suspension on, because that car is incredible.
Then the dad (Luis) took me for a launch in that blue 944T he obtained recently... Lighter car than mine by maybe 200~250 lbs...470hp ....that's the fastest car i've ever been in. That ride was terrifying...
Lart was spinning the wheels at 45mph when the afterburners kicked in. Whomever purchases it can have one hell of a 944T engine... and probably longivity if they don't beat on it. If i'm honest' they should just get the whole car and put their desired suspension on, because that car is incredible.
#317
Lart gave me a big head start today on getting my soon to be modified gauge cluster sorted.... Then i took his son on a launch through 1st and 2nd gear in the Sledgehammer which has been running at full power (since we swapped the connections of two vaccuun hoses that were incorrectly switched)...
Then the dad (Luis) took me for a launch in that blue 944T he obtained recently... Lighter car than mine by maybe 200~250 lbs...470hp ....that's the fastest car i've ever been in. That ride was terrifying...
Lart was spinning the wheels at 45mph when the afterburners kicked in. Whomever purchases it can have one hell of a 944T engine... and probably longivity if they don't beat on it. If i'm honest' they should just get the whole car and put their desired suspension on, because that car is incredible.
Then the dad (Luis) took me for a launch in that blue 944T he obtained recently... Lighter car than mine by maybe 200~250 lbs...470hp ....that's the fastest car i've ever been in. That ride was terrifying...
Lart was spinning the wheels at 45mph when the afterburners kicked in. Whomever purchases it can have one hell of a 944T engine... and probably longivity if they don't beat on it. If i'm honest' they should just get the whole car and put their desired suspension on, because that car is incredible.
Thank you Allen
#319
#320
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 28,705
Likes: 213
From: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
^^ first 190mph four cylinder I've been in. and probably be the last.
I was shocked by the smoothness of that engine from inside the cabin.
can't even begin to imagine the top end with the correct 944/T transmission combo.
fingers crossed but getting closer to getting the tach/speedo working.....
then, i'll have a bit of cosmetic touchup left to do with the 4 bezel rings and cf backing.
despite the slightly larger gauge housings, I was able to preserve the cluster.....
still, getting everything to fit into the panel was a p.i.t.a......
first, I made the diameter of the cutouts wider by about 5/32" with a special 36 grit sanding dowel I made (for the redo of my front lip spoiler ducts, after some recent damage)
next, I had to rip out 2 circuit boards behind the original speedo, and (that) speedo still has 2 more boards mounted on it (wtf).
but the other gauges remained functional.
working with the cf on this tight board is a f_cking p.i.t.a...
the camera makes it look all effed up.... but it's just reflections messing with the lens
looking at it with your eyes, (it's fine).
UPDATE;
tach is not working properly reading about 45~50% of the actual....
is it possible they sent me an 8 cylinder tach? I believe the LS sends a 4 cylinder signal.
GPS speedo and everything else is 100% ballz on.....
I was shocked by the smoothness of that engine from inside the cabin.
can't even begin to imagine the top end with the correct 944/T transmission combo.
fingers crossed but getting closer to getting the tach/speedo working.....
then, i'll have a bit of cosmetic touchup left to do with the 4 bezel rings and cf backing.
despite the slightly larger gauge housings, I was able to preserve the cluster.....
still, getting everything to fit into the panel was a p.i.t.a......
first, I made the diameter of the cutouts wider by about 5/32" with a special 36 grit sanding dowel I made (for the redo of my front lip spoiler ducts, after some recent damage)
next, I had to rip out 2 circuit boards behind the original speedo, and (that) speedo still has 2 more boards mounted on it (wtf).
but the other gauges remained functional.
working with the cf on this tight board is a f_cking p.i.t.a...
the camera makes it look all effed up.... but it's just reflections messing with the lens
looking at it with your eyes, (it's fine).
UPDATE;
tach is not working properly reading about 45~50% of the actual....
is it possible they sent me an 8 cylinder tach? I believe the LS sends a 4 cylinder signal.
GPS speedo and everything else is 100% ballz on.....
Last edited by odurandina; 11-18-2017 at 08:21 PM.
#321
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 28,705
Likes: 213
From: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
In the time after swapping to the high output pump, the problem of too much switched current, re; the ignition switching on the combined [computer + fuel pump circuit] eventually stressed the electrical box to the point of internal arcing and subsequent relay failure.... the result, (a common problem with early Chevy efi systems), produces a result quite similar to our DME relay issues.... I went about searching the internet and found where to check for a burnt relay... opened the computer hatch and found the suspect relay was clearly 'burnt'.... The events that brought this discovery proved yet again, that a good amateur mechanic like Doug Bray can keep this beast running indefinitely.... i didn't want to go near it, but Doug went straight to work......
By re-routing the fuel pump circuit and simply running a pigtail off the ignition wire into a new, dedicated relay box, and by changing the oem 14 (or 16) gauge wire to #10 wire, the high amps/high heat running on 1 circuit is now distributed to 2 low amps/low heat circuits.... Now my computer is running cool, and with plenty of juice.... With about 4 hous of work, Doug ascended to legend status... because not only do i have a perfectly running engine with just the single turn of the key, but this relatively easy upgrade can be done for the 944/968's running the oem engines. .... re; no more DME relay issues.....
/
By re-routing the fuel pump circuit and simply running a pigtail off the ignition wire into a new, dedicated relay box, and by changing the oem 14 (or 16) gauge wire to #10 wire, the high amps/high heat running on 1 circuit is now distributed to 2 low amps/low heat circuits.... Now my computer is running cool, and with plenty of juice.... With about 4 hous of work, Doug ascended to legend status... because not only do i have a perfectly running engine with just the single turn of the key, but this relatively easy upgrade can be done for the 944/968's running the oem engines. .... re; no more DME relay issues.....
/
Last edited by odurandina; 12-20-2017 at 01:08 PM.
#322
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 28,705
Likes: 213
From: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
from a recent thread
When pondering your next non-turbo or turbo the n/a engine build/s
before committing thousands of dollars, an often overlooked engine combo
for a serious street or race car w/ 550~625 reliable horses.
consider an engine combination perfect for dry or wet sump
already track tested, and proven to deliver time and again.
It features proven modern internals from reliable parts manufacturers.......
with barely a few tweaks. It sounds god awful expensive:
but it's not close to that. Take a closer look to how well matched
the flat torque curve and long, top end power is for our 3000 pound cars!
Racers w/ sumped V8's should run a low displacement LS7 straight off.
Street: run a big triangle resonator/s, w/ full Magnaflow, and she'll purr like
a big cat....
and keep going and going and going straight up to 7500rpm (peak),
8000 and beyond---still be pulling >540 hp......
Brothers and sisters: hiding in plain sight.....
The same engine combination used on the Ultimate Aero to break the
record for fastest production car a decade ago, (twin turbo's)
Look at the (n/a)'s insane torque and hp curve.
Drops right in/ not unreasonably priced to own and drive....
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...m-road-racing/
i'm running the same/similar forged internals as the Thomson Automotive build
described above in the article, save for trimming down to LS3 (ported) heads
from Chevy Performance, Vette C6 LS3 intake, Z06/LS7 injectors,
and a big manual throttle body.
This is an engine that can take an absolutely insane amount of abuse.....
There is no cheap way to do a dry sump.
You can modify the stock sump by welding on fittings or utilising bulk head fittings but this only saves a small portion of the total cost.............
I really don’t see the point in putting together a cheap dry sump setup as a well modified stock system is likely going to work better. Even if you did piece something together you would be designing the system from scratch, there will be teething problems that will cost $$ and a good chance you will end up doing the job twice, R&D costs money. I have always had the tried and trusted approach, do it once do it right.
You can modify the stock sump by welding on fittings or utilising bulk head fittings but this only saves a small portion of the total cost.............
I really don’t see the point in putting together a cheap dry sump setup as a well modified stock system is likely going to work better. Even if you did piece something together you would be designing the system from scratch, there will be teething problems that will cost $$ and a good chance you will end up doing the job twice, R&D costs money. I have always had the tried and trusted approach, do it once do it right.
When pondering your next non-turbo or turbo the n/a engine build/s
before committing thousands of dollars, an often overlooked engine combo
for a serious street or race car w/ 550~625 reliable horses.
consider an engine combination perfect for dry or wet sump
already track tested, and proven to deliver time and again.
It features proven modern internals from reliable parts manufacturers.......
with barely a few tweaks. It sounds god awful expensive:
but it's not close to that. Take a closer look to how well matched
the flat torque curve and long, top end power is for our 3000 pound cars!
Racers w/ sumped V8's should run a low displacement LS7 straight off.
Street: run a big triangle resonator/s, w/ full Magnaflow, and she'll purr like
a big cat....
and keep going and going and going straight up to 7500rpm (peak),
8000 and beyond---still be pulling >540 hp......
Brothers and sisters: hiding in plain sight.....
The same engine combination used on the Ultimate Aero to break the
record for fastest production car a decade ago, (twin turbo's)
Look at the (n/a)'s insane torque and hp curve.
Drops right in/ not unreasonably priced to own and drive....
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...m-road-racing/
i'm running the same/similar forged internals as the Thomson Automotive build
described above in the article, save for trimming down to LS3 (ported) heads
from Chevy Performance, Vette C6 LS3 intake, Z06/LS7 injectors,
and a big manual throttle body.
This is an engine that can take an absolutely insane amount of abuse.....
#323
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,505
Likes: 37
From: Marietta, NY
from a recent thread
When pondering your next non-turbo or turbo the n/a engine build/s
before committing thousands of dollars, an often overlooked engine combo
for a serious street or race car w/ 550~625 reliable horses.
consider an engine combination perfect for dry or wet sump
already track tested, and proven to deliver time and again......
When pondering your next non-turbo or turbo the n/a engine build/s
before committing thousands of dollars, an often overlooked engine combo
for a serious street or race car w/ 550~625 reliable horses.
consider an engine combination perfect for dry or wet sump
already track tested, and proven to deliver time and again......
The following users liked this post:
Jay Wellwood (12-09-2020)
#324
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 28,705
Likes: 213
From: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
#326
from a recent thread
When pondering your next non-turbo or turbo the n/a engine build/s
before committing thousands of dollars, an often overlooked engine combo
for a serious street or race car w/ 550~625 reliable horses.
consider an engine combination perfect for dry or wet sump
already track tested, and proven to deliver time and again.
It features proven modern internals from reliable parts manufacturers.......
with barely a few tweaks. It sounds god awful expensive:
but it's not close to that. Take a closer look to how well matched
the flat torque curve and long, top end power is for our 3000 pound cars!
Racers w/ sumped V8's should run a low displacement LS7 straight off.
Street: run a big triangle resonator/s, w/ full Magnaflow, and she'll purr like
a big cat....
and keep going and going and going straight up to 7500rpm (peak),
8000 and beyond---still be pulling >540 hp......
Brothers and sisters: hiding in plain sight.....
The same engine combination used on the Ultimate Aero to break the
record for fastest production car a decade ago, (twin turbo's)
Look at the (n/a)'s insane torque and hp curve.
Drops right in/ not unreasonably priced to own and drive....
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...m-road-racing/
i'm running the same/similar forged internals as the Thomson Automotive build
described above in the article, save for trimming down to LS3 (ported) heads
from Chevy Performance, Vette C6 LS3 intake, Z06/LS7 injectors,
and a big manual throttle body.
This is an engine that can take an absolutely insane amount of abuse.....
When pondering your next non-turbo or turbo the n/a engine build/s
before committing thousands of dollars, an often overlooked engine combo
for a serious street or race car w/ 550~625 reliable horses.
consider an engine combination perfect for dry or wet sump
already track tested, and proven to deliver time and again.
It features proven modern internals from reliable parts manufacturers.......
with barely a few tweaks. It sounds god awful expensive:
but it's not close to that. Take a closer look to how well matched
the flat torque curve and long, top end power is for our 3000 pound cars!
Racers w/ sumped V8's should run a low displacement LS7 straight off.
Street: run a big triangle resonator/s, w/ full Magnaflow, and she'll purr like
a big cat....
and keep going and going and going straight up to 7500rpm (peak),
8000 and beyond---still be pulling >540 hp......
Brothers and sisters: hiding in plain sight.....
The same engine combination used on the Ultimate Aero to break the
record for fastest production car a decade ago, (twin turbo's)
Look at the (n/a)'s insane torque and hp curve.
Drops right in/ not unreasonably priced to own and drive....
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...m-road-racing/
i'm running the same/similar forged internals as the Thomson Automotive build
described above in the article, save for trimming down to LS3 (ported) heads
from Chevy Performance, Vette C6 LS3 intake, Z06/LS7 injectors,
and a big manual throttle body.
This is an engine that can take an absolutely insane amount of abuse.....
The following users liked this post:
odurandina (01-10-2021)
The following 2 users liked this post by Thom:
333pg333 (01-07-2021),
odurandina (01-10-2021)
#329
Not my experience at all. I've done over 190mph on more occasions than I should admit and I could let go of the steering wheel with one hand and each nachos with the other at that speed. It was a solid as a rock. It shocked me. The only difference from stock is an AIR splitter, which after reading your post, makes me think it works more better than I thought. And I have Koni Yellow adjustable shocks all around. In fact, one of my splitters ripped off at 185mph and I rolled over it. I thought the car was going to go airborn. But it stuck right back down on the road. The engineers designed these cars to have more down force the faster they go. It's one of the things I like most about our little cars. How solid they are at speed.
Last edited by DFASTEST951; 01-06-2021 at 06:25 PM.
#330
With over 200 track days and various stages of tune, I can tell you. These cars aren't really designed for those types of speeds. Even if it can be accomplished with brut force, the engineering was never elevated to that level where one would feel comfortable turning the wheel.
The following users liked this post:
odurandina (01-10-2021)