Who will be happy with 300-320rwhp?
08-24-2009, 08:40 AM
#46
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really? $2000 and you have to send a core? i love the idea and the power levels but maybe i'm just a cheap f**ker but this seems like a buttload of money for a rebuilt turbo and chips. i would think about $1000-1200.
i mean no disrespect as i value your importance as a tuner but i'm just saying i wouldn't be able to afford that. of course, the stealth level doesn't hold much value for me even though i'm in CA. no one knows a stock turbo from an upgraded unit unless you're racing and just trying to build a cheater for a stock spec series.
how about the same set up but with a giant red flag which says "Not Stock" for $1000?
i mean no disrespect as i value your importance as a tuner but i'm just saying i wouldn't be able to afford that. of course, the stealth level doesn't hold much value for me even though i'm in CA. no one knows a stock turbo from an upgraded unit unless you're racing and just trying to build a cheater for a stock spec series.
how about the same set up but with a giant red flag which says "Not Stock" for $1000?
Turbo, Chip and PiggyBack for around $2000. I agree with you, this package is not for everyone!
08-24-2009, 08:41 AM
#47
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08-24-2009, 09:16 AM
#48
really? $2000 and you have to send a core? i love the idea and the power levels but maybe i'm just a cheap f**ker but this seems like a buttload of money for a rebuilt turbo and chips. i would think about $1000-1200.
i mean no disrespect as i value your importance as a tuner but i'm just saying i wouldn't be able to afford that. of course, the stealth level doesn't hold much value for me even though i'm in CA. no one knows a stock turbo from an upgraded unit unless you're racing and just trying to build a cheater for a stock spec series.
how about the same set up but with a giant red flag which says "Not Stock" for $1000?
i mean no disrespect as i value your importance as a tuner but i'm just saying i wouldn't be able to afford that. of course, the stealth level doesn't hold much value for me even though i'm in CA. no one knows a stock turbo from an upgraded unit unless you're racing and just trying to build a cheater for a stock spec series.
how about the same set up but with a giant red flag which says "Not Stock" for $1000?
If you look at it from a HP to $ ratio where else can you get 70 - 100 HP and quicker spooling for that money?
Thats where he has the market strenght to ask for that price. its not what it cost him its what the market demands. Most peoples goals are between 300 - 350 this is a package deal no hasssle most people like that.
+ other vendors have 300+ hp kits that im sure apporoach uppwards of 3500. With a few other mods im sure you might be able to get more out of it.... and remember its only 14 psi. Low compared to what most people try to run on this site ( Succesful or unSuccesful)
08-24-2009, 01:47 PM
#49
Rainman
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i dont think wasted spark would be necessary for an entry level kit, maybe the MAF and piggyback to make up for extra airflow.
however i will be starting my SC project with the stock dme/afm and seeing how that works and then will be changing eproms after that to make it perfect so there may not be a need for the piggyback if the NA afm can handle more airflow. i know it will handle a bit more than stock but not sure how much. if i can get everything "right" with the SC it should be seeing about the same power levels as this bolt on turbo kit.
id be happy to try to make this work. let me know!
however i will be starting my SC project with the stock dme/afm and seeing how that works and then will be changing eproms after that to make it perfect so there may not be a need for the piggyback if the NA afm can handle more airflow. i know it will handle a bit more than stock but not sure how much. if i can get everything "right" with the SC it should be seeing about the same power levels as this bolt on turbo kit.
id be happy to try to make this work. let me know!
08-24-2009, 03:11 PM
#50
Three Wheelin'
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I reluctantly admit that this thread has my attention. I've been convinced that a 60-1 would probably be near-best for me... But to get a "cheater" turbo that fits right in the OE spot, and still spools really quick and makes the power that I need it to...
My absolute goal is about 350, but more would be fine. I just really don't see the need to exceed 400. No need. Plus, controlling that much power around a track with terrain and tight turns won't be fun. Especially with a large turbo that takes a minute to light up and comes on like a freight train from behind.
My absolute goal is about 350, but more would be fine. I just really don't see the need to exceed 400. No need. Plus, controlling that much power around a track with terrain and tight turns won't be fun. Especially with a large turbo that takes a minute to light up and comes on like a freight train from behind.
08-24-2009, 04:21 PM
#51
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i dont think wasted spark would be necessary for an entry level kit, maybe the MAF and piggyback to make up for extra airflow.
however i will be starting my SC project with the stock dme/afm and seeing how that works and then will be changing eproms after that to make it perfect so there may not be a need for the piggyback if the NA afm can handle more airflow. i know it will handle a bit more than stock but not sure how much. if i can get everything "right" with the SC it should be seeing about the same power levels as this bolt on turbo kit.
id be happy to try to make this work. let me know!
however i will be starting my SC project with the stock dme/afm and seeing how that works and then will be changing eproms after that to make it perfect so there may not be a need for the piggyback if the NA afm can handle more airflow. i know it will handle a bit more than stock but not sure how much. if i can get everything "right" with the SC it should be seeing about the same power levels as this bolt on turbo kit.
id be happy to try to make this work. let me know!
We are getting OT. Back to the cheater turbo! From the response I'm getting, it will become a entry level product.
08-24-2009, 08:56 PM
#52
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Hmm, I even have an extra k26 with a chewed up compressor wheel sitting on my workbench... What condition does the turbo need to be in to be useful as a core? Forgive me if this has been covered already.
08-24-2009, 09:10 PM
#53
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Obviously, there is no way to tell the condition of a used turbo till we examine it.
08-24-2009, 09:16 PM
#54
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A big advantage of sticking with the full k26 housing is that it will bolt up perfectly, keeping things simple. Getting the hybrids with the kkk replica housings to bolt up align properly can require some modifications and dealing with the coolant pipe in the way etc. I love my TO4E50 though!
08-24-2009, 10:37 PM
#55
Drifting
One of my favorite 951's was my baltic blue 89 951 with a K27/6 and good tuning. This car hit 330whp at 18psi. The TQ was about 345 by 3500rpm. This was about ten years ago, and it was a blast to drive. Doing this with a cheater turbo for a few bucks is a great option.
I had to purchase a PH head, new K27/6 turbo, chips, HR ARC II, MAF with chips, downpipe, 3.0 FPR, and some other stuff.
If this kit does this for 2K, I promise you won't be sorry.
George
I had to purchase a PH head, new K27/6 turbo, chips, HR ARC II, MAF with chips, downpipe, 3.0 FPR, and some other stuff.
If this kit does this for 2K, I promise you won't be sorry.
George
08-25-2009, 05:54 PM
#56
08-25-2009, 07:32 PM
#57
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Not sure what you have seen for backpressure on the K26/8 over 15psi boost. Care to elaborate? We address all the issues, including a better flowing turbine section which reduces backpressure.
08-25-2009, 10:06 PM
#59
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