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Am I going to nuke something?

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Old 09-05-2009, 11:46 PM
  #61  
Rogue_Ant
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7ES.
And I would go with BR7ES (no "P") on your application...


-Rogue
Old 09-06-2009, 12:47 AM
  #62  
V2Rocket
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awesome thanks

whats the P? platinum?

i want copper for low cost and high conductivity, but im concerned about heat range. 7es should be cold enough then.
Old 09-06-2009, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket_aka944
there are a few stations near me (~20 miles) that have 100 at the pump for ~$8/gal.

the reason i want to start on the high stuff is to see what the hell kind of boost i will be seeing from the setup (no real way to determine that until it actually runs, unless someone has a secret formula). in that situation i could see if i can safely run 91 or if i need to get a lower-boost pulley.
Before you start jacking up the boost, make sure that you have an accurate WBO2 capability. Otherwise you are shooting in the dark. If you can also add an accurate EGT reading, you'll be even better off.
Save the gas money, and stay off the boost before you can do the first two.
Old 09-06-2009, 02:12 AM
  #64  
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not jacking up boost at all, just finding out an accurate boost number that the blower will be putting out. i have no idea at this point, its speculation that it will be between 8 and 10 psi. no way to find out until its all actually bolted on. i think id be safe for getting things up and running, tested and figured out with a few gallons of straight 100 which id gladly spend the $8/gal for peace of mind

i have now also found a gas station on the way to school (about 13 miles from here, just along the freeway!) that sells 100 at the pump and e85. this opens up some possibility with experimenting with e85 but then id be getting into the "dual tune" stuff so not sure. also found the local kragen sells windshield wash with methanol in it

think itd make more sense to buy a WB02 and EGT sensors or just do it on a dyno?
Old 09-06-2009, 02:17 AM
  #65  
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Which seems best too you?
1. Trust the dyno equipment.
2. Trust your equipment.
3. Use both to ensure an accurate balance?

Your putting a Hell of a lot of time, effort and cash into this project. Doesn't it make sense to go out of your way to ensure the accuracy of your data?
Old 09-06-2009, 02:18 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by ehall
Which seems best too you?
1. Trust the dyno equipment.
2. Trust your equipment.
3. Use both to ensure an accurate balance?

Your putting a Hell of a lot of time, effort and cash into this project. Doesn't it make sense to go out of your way to ensure the accuracy of your data?
good point sir


random idea of the day...instead of meth...how well does toluene atomize...? lol`
Old 09-06-2009, 02:29 AM
  #67  
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There is a reason it's called a "Random Idea".
Pick a system and make it work perfectly. Once you do, you'll be expertly capable of determining the merits of other systems, by comparison.
Old 09-06-2009, 05:14 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket_aka944
whats the P? platinum?
The P stands for projected-tip. Non-projected tip is a better plug in a car that is octane/knock limited (IMO).
Old 09-06-2009, 04:46 PM
  #69  
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BR7ES at kragen, $2.49 apiece. beautiful.
Old 09-06-2009, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Ant
The P stands for projected-tip. Non-projected tip is a better plug in a car that is octane/knock limited (IMO).
Why?
Old 09-06-2009, 07:01 PM
  #71  
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Non-Projected tip is slightly colder then the rating suggests. They are less likely to knock, imo.
Also, I've seen the projected tip plugs become too hot, cracking and breaking the ceramic, and going with non-projected tip helped that.


-Rogue
Old 09-06-2009, 09:34 PM
  #72  
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good to know



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