V2Rocket

full kit. IC, secondary heat exchanger, pump, fan and hardware.

i rebuilt my NA engine at a cost of around $2000, what goes under your definition of "refresh"?

pormgb

Yes, I agree !! if you can get above 10 PSI out of your SC, you will need an Intercooler. I used a Paxton SN/89, I struggled to get 8 PSI with the 951 Intercooler, the Paxton also provides little boost below 3K RPM.

pormgb

Pistons, the scary part of bosted N/As. I run 10 PSI all the way to red line on my Turbocharged N/A, my car has been boosted for two years and is very quick. With my 9.5.1 compression I can see 10PSI as low as 2000 RPM under the right load and outside temperature (Cat By-Pass, B&B Cat Back). I run a Greddy EO1 boost controller that lets me adjust how quick my turbo come in, I'm not sure how this works on low compression turbo motor but with mine a high gain setting builds boost extremely quickly, actually too quick so I have to lower the gain. I also have a J&S Safeguard to monitor and control knock, with lower gain setting I see almost no knock all the up into the higher rev range, I do use water injection for safety. I must say, once I experience a turbo on my car I wanted more, I'm in the process of building a low compression motor.

With regard to my Corvair, I ll be happy to share information on my car.

V2Rocket

what fuel do you run on your turbo'd NA?

944obscene

I'm a proponent of W2A IC's and see no problem with running one. If done properly, then there should be no problem with heatsoak or heat buildup in the water system. Geo and Honda radiators are fairly compact and work great for the purpose of cooling things down. I've heard of them being used on other cars. If it's good enough to stabilize engine temps, then I'm CERTAIN that it will be able to keep boost cool.

The other thing to keep in mind is the capacity of the system. I recommend having the pump flow from a reservoir, into an HE and then into the intercooler. Even a small-ish (but not tiny) reservoir will help. The more capacity, the better heat control.

Don't mess with those ***** HE's with the kits that are available. Get a small car radiator, plug off the ports, then tap for the AN fittings. It'll work.

I've done some work with A2W before and intend on making it work with my 951 when I start getting free cash in. [/pedestal]

I don't THINK that you'll run into a problem with nuking anything, but I would be prudent. Watch your gauges like a hawk. You should be alright on 10 pounds. Buddy with an A2W cooled MP62 Hyundai V6 tiburon, with 11:1 compression on 8 pounds of boost ran just fine for the longest time. Great power figures, and the HP line on his graph was still rising when he hit ignition-cut. 280whp without functional meth injection. Your stock compression should be fine.

I've got faith in your build!

333pg333

I'm sorta struggling to read this right. On one hand it sounds like you're going to an awful lot of time, trouble and I'm betting more money than you're bargaining for to do something that you want to be able to reverse engineer so that you could possibly sell it as a stock car? Then, when you can get motors, parts, and work done so cheap in the US you're passing on the 951 (or parts of) idea?

Not knocking your ingenuity or perspicacity Spencer but I hope you're going to be happy after all this with 250hp or whatever it is you're imagining? I'm happy to see someone do something out of the norm and wish you success.

Chris White

Full kit for $280? OK, thats pretty cheap - but you do have quite a bit of fabricating to do - especially since you don't want to make any sheet metal mods.

In keeping with the DIY and ‘inexpensive’ direction of this thread – all you need to refresh and good used 951 shortblock is to replace the rod bearing and gaskets. If the rod bearings look decent then leave the mains alone. Sure, it would be ideal to go through the whole motor and replace all sorts of stuff…but you did want to take the ‘economical’ way.
If you are picking the A2W because you think its cheaper then I think you might have a surprise coming, If you are doing it for the challenge then go for it.

BTW – ignition timing is the key to getting any boosted engine to live.

pormgb

Pump gas!!

pormgb

Just want to back you up on the timing comment. My J&S Safeguard is a life saver, I keep an eye on the monitor, it retards my timing if knock is detected, I can also preset timing retard per pound of boost.

V2Rocket

im doing this more for the project in itself than outright power goals. i like tinkering, this is something that has kept me awake at nights for a year and a half figuring out pressure ratios and temperature gain formulas and all that stuff.

i understand the desire to be making 300whp and i certainly would like that but when the time comes for me to play with that then i will buy a 951. but for now mr NA is going to be getting some breathing assistance and id honestly be happy if i could break 200 at the wheels. the car just needs more pickup from a dig (especially with the 951 gearbox, great on the highway but off lights it is slowwww). i do realize that this is the wrong car to start with for mega power goals but that is not what im looking for with this project.

V2Rocket

the kit im looking at is from a very reputable company (frozenboost) and they look like quality products. ill go with their HE to start with since its part of the kit but if it doesnt seem to perform enough there are a few pick n pulls here that i could get a radiator for like $10

and yes ive thought about a reservoir and im trying to devise a place to mount such a thing...maybe over where the cruise control unit used to be, or where the PS reservoir is not being used..

V2Rocket

what octane?


and do you guys think that the DME FQS is enough for AFR tuning? if not, what can i use short of maxtune/ostrich (which would probably be ideal)? according to frwilk there is only so much adjustment for fueling/timing, either pulling 3% fuel or adding 3 or 6% fuel, and pulling ~3* timing.

TurboTommy

Another idea in regards to intercooling; you could run just a straight water/methanol injection system. Depending on the amount injected and the ratio between water and methanol you can easily take out a good 100 degrees F of heat with zero pressure drop. No complexity of water/air IC, cheap, and you you don't have to squeeze in a 951 IC.

V2Rocket

thought about that too. but like i said in the OP, i dont want to make methanol the "crutch" that makes or breaks the system. if i were to do that i wouldnt even have started this thread, instead id be blowing 12-15psi through my intercooler and pumping pure meth into the intake ports. (i may end up doing just that but i want to make sure the system works by itself for the day that heaven forbid my meth supply runs out and theres nowhere to be found that sells even windshield washer fluid)

pormgb

I use only premium up here in Canada, that would be 92-93 Octane. With regards to fuel management, the Mafterburner works really well for me, I see around 14.5 AFR at idle, cruising and around 12.5 AFR under boost, tuning is not that difficult even without a dyno. Just to state the obvious again, I use Devils Own water injection, this system uses a MAP sensor to turn on the water/alcohol flow at a specified boost, this system works wonders especially on hot days.