Anyone ever bought a new wastegate from Porsche?
#47
Rennlist Member
According to Porsche spec they're supposed to start cracking open at 4psi. I tested mine on the bench and it started to open at about 5psi. So when installed, the added little back pressure in the cross-over will help to open it at 4 psi. So, it seems to be about right.
#48
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Relax, man;
seems like you feel you're being addressed: talking about carbs and direct injection; changing the subject to throw up a smokescreen; silly
At least come up with an intelligent rebuttal.
Anyway, I never said that a newer wastegate wouldn't be a viable option (heck, when the time comes, I'll probably get one myself).
It's just that the general consensus seems to be: if you want more power get the Tial.
Well, I know someone who was given that advice when he was complaining about low/dropping boost. He swapped out a perfectly fine oem unit only to find out after that he was actually dealing with exhaust obstruction (his boost did go up, though, after the wastegate swap)
This is just an example of how operators could possibly use an aftermarket gate as a bandaide solution for a possible inefficient turbo system.
By the way, 951 RS;
a properly working OEM wastegate starts to open at 4psi (not 1 psi). With shims, as much as 6psi. If your gate is opening at 1 psi, it's either broken or you have a serious back pressure problem.
seems like you feel you're being addressed: talking about carbs and direct injection; changing the subject to throw up a smokescreen; silly
At least come up with an intelligent rebuttal.
Anyway, I never said that a newer wastegate wouldn't be a viable option (heck, when the time comes, I'll probably get one myself).
It's just that the general consensus seems to be: if you want more power get the Tial.
Well, I know someone who was given that advice when he was complaining about low/dropping boost. He swapped out a perfectly fine oem unit only to find out after that he was actually dealing with exhaust obstruction (his boost did go up, though, after the wastegate swap)
This is just an example of how operators could possibly use an aftermarket gate as a bandaide solution for a possible inefficient turbo system.
By the way, 951 RS;
a properly working OEM wastegate starts to open at 4psi (not 1 psi). With shims, as much as 6psi. If your gate is opening at 1 psi, it's either broken or you have a serious back pressure problem.
I won't clutter the thread explaining how that works to you, so you can PM me if you need more clarification
The old "I know someone:" very sneaky turbotommy... It's almost as if we can no longer carry on our wayward lies about these stock wastegate being subpar because you know someone who found out they had a bad turbo system and the wastegate was a band-aid fix. I'm completely perplexed how to proceed now because you completely thwarted my plans to trick you into getting a tial.
However, being serious, even on a stock turbo setup a new wastegate will help with power under the curve. Any well set up turbo system's primary purpose (minus a dyno queen) is to spool as fast as possible, without surging of course, to produce torque sooner through boost and then hold onto whatever boost it can, as efficiently as possible, for as long as possible to produce torque for as long as possible, as long as possible. Power under the curve is a great thing when you have it, and the wastegate certainly is a huge part of obtaining that for as long as possible.
Some things that the sheep "baah" about might be true, you never know!
I tried to make that post as short as possible!
#49
Rennlist Member
This is my 4in exhaust that was made by CEP. My whole exhaust has v-bands except the turbo in n out. Pic heavy
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...aust-pics.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...aust-pics.html
#51
Rennlist Member
#53
Rennlist Member
Yes, my metaphor to show how silly you were being with a direct comparison of old and new technology was truly off track!
I won't clutter the thread explaining how that works to you, so you can PM me if you need more clarification
The old "I know someone:" very sneaky turbotommy... It's almost as if we can no longer carry on our wayward lies about these stock wastegate being subpar because you know someone who found out they had a bad turbo system and the wastegate was a band-aid fix. I'm completely perplexed how to proceed now because you completely thwarted my plans to trick you into getting a tial.
However, being serious, even on a stock turbo setup a new wastegate will help with power under the curve. Any well set up turbo system's primary purpose (minus a dyno queen) is to spool as fast as possible, without surging of course, to produce torque sooner through boost and then hold onto whatever boost it can, as efficiently as possible, for as long as possible to produce torque for as long as possible, as long as possible. Power under the curve is a great thing when you have it, and the wastegate certainly is a huge part of obtaining that for as long as possible.
Some things that the sheep "baah" about might be true, you never know!
I tried to make that post as short as possible!
I won't clutter the thread explaining how that works to you, so you can PM me if you need more clarification
The old "I know someone:" very sneaky turbotommy... It's almost as if we can no longer carry on our wayward lies about these stock wastegate being subpar because you know someone who found out they had a bad turbo system and the wastegate was a band-aid fix. I'm completely perplexed how to proceed now because you completely thwarted my plans to trick you into getting a tial.
However, being serious, even on a stock turbo setup a new wastegate will help with power under the curve. Any well set up turbo system's primary purpose (minus a dyno queen) is to spool as fast as possible, without surging of course, to produce torque sooner through boost and then hold onto whatever boost it can, as efficiently as possible, for as long as possible to produce torque for as long as possible, as long as possible. Power under the curve is a great thing when you have it, and the wastegate certainly is a huge part of obtaining that for as long as possible.
Some things that the sheep "baah" about might be true, you never know!
I tried to make that post as short as possible!
Excessive back pressure in the cross-over kills power (even though there's a nice number displayed on your boost gauge), and is unsafe (detonation). OEM wastegates help to prevent this from happening (although, I admit, at the cost of a tad less response)
You can PM me if you need clarification.
But, I'm guessing you haven't done your own tests, so I won't be replying to any defensive canned responses.
I'm not advocating that one should shell out the ridiculius $ for the OEM unit. (I wouldn't pay that either). Just saying it does exactly what its designed to do; even on modded cars.
#54
Burning Brakes
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#55
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#59
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According to Porsche spec they're supposed to start cracking open at 4psi. I tested mine on the bench and it started to open at about 5psi. So when installed, the added little back pressure in the cross-over will help to open it at 4 psi. So, it seems to be about right.
Sure, opening at 4PSI might not be "broken", but to me it certainly is. If its opening when I dont want it to, its most certainly broken. Hence why most people go to something much better than the stock one, because it opens when they dont want it to and therefor it is broken. Regardless of how "good" its original design was or how it was designed to work.