stripping the interior
#1
Burning Brakes
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Austin, TX
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So i started stripping my interior yesterday so I can paint it and install my race bucket seats. How much glue do they use on these cars??!?! I worked on it for a good 5 hours and I feel like I barely put a dent in it. Right now Im using a cordless drill with a wire wheel attachment and its getting the job done....just very slowly.
I'm getting some dry ice to remove the tar mats, but what is a good method to remove the hairy stuff thats left behind on the rear wheel wells and the front of the rear seats?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I'm getting some dry ice to remove the tar mats, but what is a good method to remove the hairy stuff thats left behind on the rear wheel wells and the front of the rear seats?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
#2
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Use a heat gun to soften the glue then scrape it off. It works on the all the glue, tar mats, and the "hairy stuff". Don't bother with the dry ice, it's more trouble then it's work.
#3
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Ha HA. Been there, sucks big time. Different chemicals work better for the differnt adhesives. The heat Gun for sure, needs to be a good one. That removed every thing but the adhesive and the yellow stuff with a rough texture what I was told is called "monkey snot". That stuff I used a 2 inch brass wire brush on a pnumatic tool to remove. For the adhesive, I used 3m adhesive rermover, and finished with Oops adhesive remover. The differnt adhesive removers seemd to work differntly. I can't reccomend enough the heat gun.
Steve
Steve
#4
Rennlist Member
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I guess I was lucky when I pulled my rear seats, nothing was left on the seat well.
As for the rest of the junk stuck to the car, a corded drill or a pneumatic tool will do much better that a cordless.
Sweet Post 666...
As for the rest of the junk stuck to the car, a corded drill or a pneumatic tool will do much better that a cordless.
Sweet Post 666...
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#8
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+1 for everyone. That is a ridiculous job. Goof Off on rags soaking onto it for at least an hour. But then that just smears the first layer off. Took me a week with a lot of work. VERY HIGH. Lots of headaches. -real ones.- I've been bragging about German glue since then. It's gotta be the best ever. Made from dead Unicorns?
Hang in there. It will get done eventually.
Hang in there. It will get done eventually.
#9
Nordschleife Master
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+1 to everything mentioned. I used Xylene. But if you do (like most harsh chemicals) Please use very good ventilation and a proper mask / eye protection. It is REALLY nasty stuff.
The hard work is COMPLETELY worth it.
![](http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e195/Chadsm3/1stCoat2.jpg)
![](http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e195/Chadsm3/1stCoat1.jpg)
The hard work is COMPLETELY worth it.
![](http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e195/Chadsm3/1stCoat2.jpg)
![](http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e195/Chadsm3/1stCoat1.jpg)
![](http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e195/Chadsm3/P1000383.jpg)
#11
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![](http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e195/Chadsm3/P1000383.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/4pointrear.jpg)