When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The sizes are as advertised. I ended up going the fabspeed route. Have not had any problems since the install. Mention rennlist and you should get a $50 rebate. 2 copper gaskets are also included.
-Nick
Originally Posted by nick_968
The fabspeed website shows these as 70mm diameter, but the pic looks like it might be a little smaller at the turbo end graduating to 70mm at the exhaust end. Has anyone actually measured both the inlet and outlet sizes?
Ok, so I bought the fabspeed pipe, can't see the benefit of 2.85 (speedforce) over 2.75 (fabspeed). The speedforce one is going to be an even tighter fit and 2.75 matches the outlet size of most of the big turbos so its not going to caust any restriction in my setup.
For anyone who has installed these what is the best way to fit it as it does not have the studs found on the original downpipe where it meets the testpipe? Are you using bolts, if so what size is best and which way to screw them in, from the top or from underneath, if there is a choice?
Is anyone aware of a manufacturer who makes a 3 inch test pipe of regular steel instead of the high cost stainless? Lindsey Racing has some regular steel 3 inch exhausts for a signifcant cost savings, however, they do not have a test pipe only in regular steel.
My car is an '87 951 with one of Broadfoot's custom stainless 3 inch exhausts already installed that is currently connected to an OEM diameter Bursch test pipe, which is getting old and must be replaced.
Bringing this thread back from the dead instead of making a new one...
I installed a used SFR 3" downpipe and midpipe with new crush rings, but I have an immediately bad exhaust leak between them.
Anyone using copper gaskets on these, and if so, where to buy? It's not clear if the Lindsey Racing copper gaskets will fit or not. I'm avoiding contacting Speed Force Racing directly.
It was a real fight getting the midpipe installed, so I'm not keen on removing it to get dimensions - if anyone has measurements or a loose SFR flange handy, maybe I can get some copper gaskets made up.
...and to add something to the discussion, a pic of the 3" SFR downpipe installed - I had it ceramic coated in gold color:
Ive got one laying around.. Took Mine off.. I have to run the stock turbo for racing and did not see a gain, Plus as you say leaks... I hated it.. I see you have the studs that must have been a change (for the better) because mine had a crazy turned down allen screw that held it on.. and when it loosens up.... It Melts your AOS tank... It made no sense to me to have it, So I took the stock pipe and put it back on and modified it to go to 3" where levels out and then to 4" where the WG dumps in.. No Leaks. and Im not getting high off ex fumes while driving..
In addition to fastener challenges, see post #20 in the thread below. It's 10 pounds of stuff in a 5 pound bag up there, so something might be hanging up and keeping the flanges from coming together.
Some guy's have to reindex the turbo in order to make it fit. I had to send my test pipe back because it would not fit and went with the fabspeed instead.
FWIW I recently changed an engine in my friends racecar and his Downpipe to intermediate pipe had no gasket, or provision for one.. So i Glued one of the OEM crush rings to one pipe with Permatex muffler and talpipe adhesive just to hold it in place..and locked it down.. crushed the ring.. No leaky!
The mid-pipe wasn't sealing flat against the down-pipe, but nothing was interfering in the engine bay, including the crush ring. I had a great deal of trouble getting the waste-gate tie-in to fit properly, so I suspect that's my issue. I'm going to find an exhaust shop tomorrow and see if they can expand the tie-in on the mid-pipe a bit - it had an undersized ID by 1mm compared to the stock one.
I removed the mid-pipe, took a marking of the flange face, and then took measurements.
Unfortunately my copy of Fusion 360 is expired and won't seem to update or allow me to save/export this drawing - the dimensions are in mm and should be close enough.
I'm going to make a copper gasket or two tomorrow, and then try reassembling.
Last edited by KVDR; 06-23-2020 at 01:13 AM.
Reason: Fixing sketch
A large sheet of 1mm thick copper came with the acreage I moved into. I used a combination of stepped drill bids, power shears, coping saw, and dremel to cut out the shapes. Probably took me at least an hour, but with the right tools you could do it in half the time.
I wouldn't do this by hand again - I'd either order the Lindsey Racing copper gasket (assuming it fits), or order a bunch CNC laser cut.
ZIP file of Fusion 360 model attached.
FYI - the SFR downpipe bolting is identical to stock downpipe. Obviously, the ID is bigger at ~70mm (2.75").
In the end, I resolved my exhaust leak without using this copper gasket. I had the waste-gate tie-in slip joint on the mid-pipe expanded by an exhaust shop - it just needed a light touch. With a proper fit here, I was able to bolt up to the down-pipe properly, and the crush ring did it's job.
If you ever use that home-made gasket, you may want to anneal it first. Crazy Eddie made one like that years ago and it's held up every bit as well as the ones they sell. Maybe not the best use of your time, considering how cheap they are, but if you like doing it or need to save money, it's a good option.
As for the red grout, I had to really push the contractor to get that done. It was a hassle and they had to order it, blah, blah, and were arguing it would look cheap and cheesy. (Funny how often they said that about things that were a hassle to do.) I had to go out and buy red yarn, and lay it in the grout lines to make my case. Once I showed them that, it was a done deal. See with and without the red below.... Red yarn in grout lines to make my case...
07-24-2009, 03:05 AM
