DLS

I wish you good luck with that

It´s seems that i´m going to try either water wetter or evans + a 2 bar cooling cap.

Hope it´s hot spots and not headlift.

theedge

No need for a 2 bar cap with Evans. Evans coolant only makes a few PSI pressure so a 1 bar is more than enough.

toddk911

If all the issues seem to start from steam pockets, than Evans could be the best approach for all of us to be running.

Tom M'Guinn

Corleone, your motor looks great, and I'm sure it's fun! What did you do to confirm/determine that the head was developing steam pockets without the vents? Is that an educated guess or is there some way you (and others) can confirm that the head is developing steam pockets? I'm not doubting you, just looking for whatever info you can share. Thanks.

Corleone

I talked to Milledge several times and understand that this was a thing they had done. Of course he didnt give me his solution so I saw apart a head all the way and then everyone understands why this is nessecary.

333pg333

Corleone, do you have any pics of your motor completed with all the steam vent kits in situ? Do you run these back into some sort of secondary expansion tank? Are they one way valves and what happens to the possibility of cavitation?

toddk911

Would it be a better approach to try to eliminate the steam rather than swiss cheesing the head to relieve the steam?

Corleone

The steam is produced by the increasing heat, like when you boil food so its impossible to have a steamfree cooling liquid as the heat increase and micro boil. Of course Evans Cooling is another thing.

blown 944

I think I have been pretty fortunate due to the utilization of an electric water pump feeding coolant to the rear of the head via a 5/8" fitting rather than the small steam vent kit. Besides, I had to use the old turbo water pump for something

I had said in the past that I like the idea of individual cylinder relief ports like we used to do on our old SBC's. It looks like Corleone has proven them to be worth it.

Cylinder temp equalization is key with these engines I am thinking..with any engine really... but these almost require it to last.

V2Rocket

plumbed to where...heater neck?

blown 944

no tapped at the same spot where you install the Lindsey vent kit usually.
Using the port that is usually used for the turbo water pump to feed fresh coolant back there.
IMO the factory waterpump does not move enough fluid to be effective at keeping the deck totally cool in the back cylinder(s).

toddk911

That is pretty much my thinking. Could Evans be the "fix it in a bottle" we are all looking for?

toddk911

And the back cyl seem to be where most Hg issues stem from.

So you just un hooked the "out" of the turbo pump and re plumbed it to the port at the back of the head?

Can this be done without pulling the head?

theedge

I quite like it, but it comes with its own issues.

A) Very slippery. Very very. Bad enough that its like oil, and some (most?) tracks ban it for fear of spills and leaks.
B) Expensive. $30-40 a gallon IIRC.
C) No water in the system. None. Period. So carry a spare jug of Evans.
D) It doesnt evaporate at all. This is also a pro, but its a con if you spill it or get a puddle on the engine, its there for a long time.

But the pros are very good.
1) Very low pressure (a few PSI) so very easy on hoses and such.
2) Very long life.
3) Doesnt boil till a very high temp, so should reduce (eliminate??) steam pockets.
4) Reduce hot spots.

theedge

No, the head SHOULD be pulled to drill and tap it IMHO. Otherwise you might get metal bits in the cooling system.

I guess the workaround might be hooking up a garden hose and pressurizing the system, then drill and let the water flow out past the drill bit to carry the metal out. But that sounds dicey.