Techno Duck

Dont bother with narrow band.. just save the money and get a wideband setup.

I have a somewhat similar setup.. MAF, 72# injectors, 3'' exhaust, LR head, Tial wastegate...etc and still running the stock K26/6 .. car put down 260whp @ 14psi. I chose to go with the 72# injectors because i wanted the growth ability. With the MAF tuned for 72#'ers i really wont need to retune the car much for when i swap the turbo out. I am putting in a 60-1 HiFi this winter.. so the 72#'ers will goto good use (though still not near maxing out).

amirpc

Save the money? Wideband setup seems much more expensive....

Techno Duck

What i mean by that is the wideband is far more useful in the data it displays. The narrow band isnt really telling you anything other than your stock O2 sensor is working right. Who knows, it might prevent you from blowing up your engine up also.

amirpc

Yeah, you're not the first person to tell me that. I've been avoiding it because if I'm going to put $300 into something I'd rather it be my chips, or wastegate, etc...Got any recommendations on a wideband kit? I'll look into it and see if it is in the budget.

CPR

Amirpc,
don't listen to these guys...they are getting it all wrong. Install a new wing, some front clear lenses, front and rear side clears, and of course a new splitter in Mid- November.

THEN...go for the "other" upgrades....

I know this guy....and he has some good stuff....

gt37vgt

i feel ya seems on a budget you can only get something every quarter not every month

amirpc

yeah...well I actually could get something every month but I'm having to bribe people to help me out with the work and I don't think I could bribe them 5 times

Plus, I like money!

Anyone know about my other question? Do I need a piggy back fuel controller with the stage 2 MAF from lindsey?

porshhhh951

Not necessarily. I mean you are buying a fpr right? and you have injectors. As long as the chips you buy are mapped properly for your setup a fuel controller is a way to fine tune the fuel in certain areas. Get better gas mileage off boost and better performance on.

Since you are starting basic with the stock turbo and just looking for bolt ons I would take the money you'd spend on the fuel controller and buy a wide band o2. FYI I had the power perfect fuel controller with my stage 2 Lindsey maf and I nearly never touched it. I had the chips burnt for the setup and it ran rich but, well.

So I'd say spend that coin in a exhaust system or a wide band.

amirpc

Cha-Ching! Thanks

theedge

Zeitronix is a very nice Wideband O2 system.

Josh B

Not to be a stick in the mud but I am assuming that the basics are up to date on this car? Timing belt/balance belt/rollers/ water pump/front engine seals/a-arm ball joints/caster blocks/rotors/pads/brake fluid/cv axles/transmission fluid replace?

Before I did any mods I would get a leakdown test, compression test, intake pressure test and exhaust system pressure test. That way you can rule out issues like worn rings, cracked intake vaccum hoses, manifold cracks etc.

It may be fun and sexy to spend $$ on mods but if the car has issues with the fundamentals it won't last long.

amirpc

It has been maintained meticulously by a 944 head over at Pelican...

But yeah it had its belts done less than 1500 miles ago, it has a tiny oil leak from the rear engine seal I know of. The fluids are all recently replaced, and the coolant is holding, no leaks.

I've had a compression test done, and it is in good shape. I haven't had the other tests done, but it passed emissions with flying colors does that count for anything?

I'll ask my mechanic about doing some of those other tests you've mentioned.

Papamurphdog

It was mentioned in this thread but I would like to re-emphasize a few things:

• +1 on ALL basic stuff so the car itself is fairly perfect; don’t forget wheel bearings and also drop the oil pan and do the bearings. Check #2 and it will tell you a lot about the state of the motor.
• Then forget about the motor for a bit and do the car!!!
• Suspension and handling are MUCH more important than the motor, in the beginning. Do that first, you’ll thank me later.
• Then do the 3” exhaust from either LR or Fabspeed or GHL. I have Fabspeed on the black car and GHL on the S2. Both are great. With no motor mods at all you will see a performance gain from the exhaust.
• THEN, do the motor, slowly, in chunks of related parts, just like you are planning.

Make the car safe, reliable, and handle better, before you make more power. It will also give you a chance to learn to drive the car, with its new and improved handling, before adding “right foot” oversteer issues.

Just my two cents.

amirpc

I'm pretty happy with the way the car handles, I've been driving 951s for about 3 months. I drove a crappy beat up one for about 7 weeks, and then I bought this one and have had it for about 5 weeks. I'm pretty satisfied with the handling and the suspension is in excellent shape, it was redone about 4k miles ago. The original owner sunk a TON of money into the car the last 4k miles he had it, then I think ran into financial trouble and sold it to me.

After talking to Dave @ Lindsey this is what my new plan is:

1) Boost Controller/Boost Gauge
2) 3 Bar Fuel Regulator
3) Stage 2 MAF
4) Tial Wastegate
5) UEGA Wideband (Already got a deal on this)
6) 951max chips
7) Gutted Cat (already have a gutted cat, just gotta swap it on) - high flow muffler/large tip

The main difference here is the removal of the #72 fuel injectors, I'm going to wait on that until I'm ready to swap in a bigger turbo - and of course, the addition of a wideband.

Josh B

Hey amirpc,

What part of the country are you located in? Are you going to get some dynos done along the way as you do the upgrades? I would be really curious to see what sort of hp numbers they yield.