Notices
944 Turbo and Turbo-S Forum 1982-1991
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Clore Automotive

:-) gotta post this pic here ... mu ha ha

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-22-2008, 02:27 PM
  #61  
333pg333
Rennlist Member
 
333pg333's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,926
Received 98 Likes on 81 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TonyG
Patrick,

I was one of the Purists.

This car was the sister car to my other red 951 which had considerable development (http://www.tonygarcia.org/red-951-2.html) time invested.

This car was almost identical except that it had a 2.85L engine. Brand new, fully installed, with a super trick expensive turbo, full SFR plumbing, JME top end, and ALL the other goodies money could buy, etc... all assembled and installed in the car with the exception of the intake manifold.

The car was never started when the decision was made to pull the new motor and do the LS1 conversion.

Rest assured, I thought it was the most stupid thing I had ever heard of. There were plenty of arguments that followed. It wasn't pretty.

Long story short, the conversion got done. And a bunch of money was thrown at it.

We drove it and it handled like crap and the brakes were dangerous.

The car sat for a year.

I decided to take control of the project and get it fully sorted/developed out.

It took a while, but I had to get power brakes figured out since the conversion won't allow (due to clearance issues) the use of the vacuum brake booster. That meant going hydraulic assist which hadn't been done on one of these conversions. And that took a bunch of time to get dialed in and track worthy. But... it is now. And the brakes are fantastic.

The handling was also bad. It was oversteering in a bad way. That was easier to figure out and dial in (thanks to the full assortment of goodies from Racers Edge), an expensive alignment machine, and a LOT more rubber.

In the end, the car turned out to be truly great sports car. Everybody that drives it says pretty much the same thing. "Wow" "Porsche should have done a V8 in the 944". It feels so natural. It doesn't over power the chassis or brakes. And, at least at this power level, feels very much OEM. And that's what makes the conversion so good.


And... I've got a Cayenne twin turbo V8 with harness and brain that I was thinking about installing to make it a "pure Porsche". But why? It is too physically wide which would require a ton of work to do a partial tube frame to get the necessary clearance. For what? So that it would be legal to race in the POC against factory Porsche Cup Cars? Sorry... but unless there's prize money involved... it's just not worth it. Plus, no matter how much power you give a 944 chassis, it will never stay up with a factory cup car (assuming equal drivers obviously). So... there's no point and it has become non-issue.

But to go and have fun in (which is what we all do here since we don't make our money driving race cars), you can't beat it in terms of the performance/cost ratio. Not to mention the sheer fun factor... (it's the most fun sports car I've ever driven).



TonyG
Just to clarify Tony, are you saying that you had 2 cars and one with the 2.85L motor with all the trick bits but you didn't start the motor in this car?? So you sold either the motor or car or both and built the hybrid?

I'm interested in the brake setup too. Do you think this is something that could be adapted to any 951 given that the clearances must be better without the V8?
In what way is the current brake setup superior to the 951? I have never been convinced of the 951s brakes and have researched how to improve them without a lot of success. This sounds interesting.
Old 08-22-2008, 03:21 PM
  #62  
TonyG
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Thread Starter
 
TonyG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 5,978
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 333pg333
Just to clarify Tony, are you saying that you had 2 cars and one with the 2.85L motor with all the trick bits but you didn't start the motor in this car?? So you sold either the motor or car or both and built the hybrid?

I'm interested in the brake setup too. Do you think this is something that could be adapted to any 951 given that the clearances must be better without the V8?
In what way is the current brake setup superior to the 951? I have never been convinced of the 951s brakes and have researched how to improve them without a lot of success. This sounds interesting.

Yes. There were 2 cars. Both had similar engines with the exception of the displacement. And yes, the 2.85L was never started. The engine was pulled and it, and everything turbo related on that car, was sold as a package to a person in Canada.


The deal with the brakes is that the vacuum booster will not fit with the V8 engine installed. The conversion kit from Renegade Hybrids only gives you a little stand-off plate to basically reuse the stock brake master cylinder but with no vacuum power assist.

And it's a joke.


The only thing that will physically fit is a hydraulic assist setup. That's why I used it.

The hydraulic assist is not better or worse than the vacuum setup. The deal is getting it dialed in to be as good as the stock setup..... that's what takes work.

In the process I managed to get the brakes to work as good as they're ever gonna get on a car without ABS.

What's the problem with your brakes?


TonyG
Old 08-22-2008, 03:54 PM
  #63  
anders44
Three Wheelin'
 
anders44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I will be useing a stand alone pedal box with a balance bar. dedicated track toy (allthough I use it to get burgers sometime)
Old 08-22-2008, 09:39 PM
  #64  
DVC
Burning Brakes
 
DVC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I'm using an electric powered master cylinder similar to the 964 C4, and I much prefer it to the stock vac assist in both modulation and feel.

I love this quote!

I am obviously missing something because the American V8 in a German sports car doesn't seem to achieve anything.
Old 08-22-2008, 11:51 PM
  #65  
samluke
Burning Brakes
 
samluke's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: St Augustine FL
Posts: 1,077
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Hey,

Thats my quote. I could have so much fun with this thread.
Old 08-23-2008, 03:30 AM
  #66  
ShApE
Burning Brakes
 
ShApE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TonyG
And... I've got a Cayenne twin turbo V8 with harness and brain that I was thinking about installing to make it a "pure Porsche".
would you be willing to sell that motor?
Old 08-23-2008, 05:23 AM
  #67  
333pg333
Rennlist Member
 
333pg333's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,926
Received 98 Likes on 81 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TonyG
Yes. There were 2 cars. Both had similar engines with the exception of the displacement. And yes, the 2.85L was never started. The engine was pulled and it, and everything turbo related on that car, was sold as a package to a person in Canada.


The deal with the brakes is that the vacuum booster will not fit with the V8 engine installed. The conversion kit from Renegade Hybrids only gives you a little stand-off plate to basically reuse the stock brake master cylinder but with no vacuum power assist.

And it's a joke.


The only thing that will physically fit is a hydraulic assist setup. That's why I used it.

The hydraulic assist is not better or worse than the vacuum setup. The deal is getting it dialed in to be as good as the stock setup..... that's what takes work.

In the process I managed to get the brakes to work as good as they're ever gonna get on a car without ABS.

What's the problem with your brakes?


TonyG
Well it sounds like both you and DVC / Travis have their brakes sorted. I have always found mine to have too much pedal travel and I'm not alone. I have canvassed opinions from all over the world and there are quite a few people who find their 951/968 brakes a bit on the spongy side. I have had a few incidents of pedal to the floor on the track, although this was more in the past than recently. My setup is direct to rotor venting/ducting, 928GTS discs, Big Reds, s/s braideds, SFR fluid, new M/C, rear bias valve, PFC pads (now Pagid Blues), and yes, plenty of bleeding. To be fair I have made these mods over time and I've not been able to track the car much at all on the full above-mentioned list, but I've had most of them in when tracking and really I would like a firmer pedal that requires less travel to retard. People have always said that getting into a decent 911 after one of ours cars you really notice how much better the brakes feel in the 911/993/964/996/997. Then there is the school of thought that by going up in caliper (therefore piston) size, you need to increase the size of the Master/Slave combo, otherwise you can actually increase the pedal travel. The only other person who I've seen write this is Sam Lin on the 951 forum, but trying to engage him on discussion proved fruitless however he said that a M/C from a 7 series BMW from the '90s was the same fit, but larger and therefore could be the answer. I have searched for one of these but the suppliers don't want to know me (A.T.E.). Ski thought he might have one somewhere but hasn't been in the position to confirm this yet. My belief is that going up to one of these will give me that firmer, shorter travel that I desire even though it should require more effort to induce the same stopping power. I'm happy to find out. There's another school of thought that suggest that ABS or the factory version can't cope with repeated hard stops and basically fails, eventuating in no pedal. I'm not sure this is what I've experienced as you don't get such rapid, repeated hard braking occasions, nor have I felt the ABS kick in very many times on the track so not sure if this is the case.
Anyway, if there's anyone with further ideas feel free to expound or PM me. Thanks.
Old 08-23-2008, 08:26 AM
  #68  
special tool
Banned
 
special tool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: limbo....
Posts: 8,599
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by 333pg333
Well it sounds like both you and DVC / Travis have their brakes sorted. I have always found mine to have too much pedal travel and I'm not alone. I have canvassed opinions from all over the world and there are quite a few people who find their 951/968 brakes a bit on the spongy side. I have had a few incidents of pedal to the floor on the track, although this was more in the past than recently. My setup is direct to rotor venting/ducting, 928GTS discs, Big Reds, s/s braideds, SFR fluid, new M/C, rear bias valve, PFC pads (now Pagid Blues), and yes, plenty of bleeding. To be fair I have made these mods over time and I've not been able to track the car much at all on the full above-mentioned list, but I've had most of them in when tracking and really I would like a firmer pedal that requires less travel to retard. People have always said that getting into a decent 911 after one of ours cars you really notice how much better the brakes feel in the 911/993/964/996/997. Then there is the school of thought that by going up in caliper (therefore piston) size, you need to increase the size of the Master/Slave combo, otherwise you can actually increase the pedal travel. The only other person who I've seen write this is Sam Lin on the 951 forum, but trying to engage him on discussion proved fruitless however he said that a M/C from a 7 series BMW from the '90s was the same fit, but larger and therefore could be the answer. I have searched for one of these but the suppliers don't want to know me (A.T.E.). Ski thought he might have one somewhere but hasn't been in the position to confirm this yet. My belief is that going up to one of these will give me that firmer, shorter travel that I desire even though it should require more effort to induce the same stopping power. I'm happy to find out. There's another school of thought that suggest that ABS or the factory version can't cope with repeated hard stops and basically fails, eventuating in no pedal. I'm not sure this is what I've experienced as you don't get such rapid, repeated hard braking occasions, nor have I felt the ABS kick in very many times on the track so not sure if this is the case.
Anyway, if there's anyone with further ideas feel free to expound or PM me. Thanks.

Well...
a larger hydraulic piston displaces more, so it will require more fluid to move it.
There is no question there.

Patrick - I would suggest that instead you investigate the MC fitted by the Porsche factory for use with these calipers, and measure the bore....
THEN look for something that fits.
Probably you can find an MC with a bore within 3% or so that will fit.
Old 08-23-2008, 12:36 PM
  #69  
TonyG
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Thread Starter
 
TonyG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 5,978
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 333pg333
Well it sounds like both you and DVC / Travis have their brakes sorted. I have always found mine to have too much pedal travel and I'm not alone. I have canvassed opinions from all over the world and there are quite a few people who find their 951/968 brakes a bit on the spongy side. I have had a few incidents of pedal to the floor on the track, although this was more in the past than recently. My setup is direct to rotor venting/ducting, 928GTS discs, Big Reds, s/s braideds, SFR fluid, new M/C, rear bias valve, PFC pads (now Pagid Blues), and yes, plenty of bleeding. To be fair I have made these mods over time and I've not been able to track the car much at all on the full above-mentioned list, but I've had most of them in when tracking and really I would like a firmer pedal that requires less travel to retard. People have always said that getting into a decent 911 after one of ours cars you really notice how much better the brakes feel in the 911/993/964/996/997. Then there is the school of thought that by going up in caliper (therefore piston) size, you need to increase the size of the Master/Slave combo, otherwise you can actually increase the pedal travel. The only other person who I've seen write this is Sam Lin on the 951 forum, but trying to engage him on discussion proved fruitless however he said that a M/C from a 7 series BMW from the '90s was the same fit, but larger and therefore could be the answer. I have searched for one of these but the suppliers don't want to know me (A.T.E.). Ski thought he might have one somewhere but hasn't been in the position to confirm this yet. My belief is that going up to one of these will give me that firmer, shorter travel that I desire even though it should require more effort to induce the same stopping power. I'm happy to find out. There's another school of thought that suggest that ABS or the factory version can't cope with repeated hard stops and basically fails, eventuating in no pedal. I'm not sure this is what I've experienced as you don't get such rapid, repeated hard braking occasions, nor have I felt the ABS kick in very many times on the track so not sure if this is the case.
Anyway, if there's anyone with further ideas feel free to expound or PM me. Thanks.

If the issue is simply pedal travel, then you could simply pull the brake pedal and drill in 2nd hole in the pedal so the the clevis ratio is faster (which would be away from the pedal pivot point). Go small. 1/4" should make it quite a bit faster and should make the pedal harder since the leverage will be reduced.

The other thing is the factory proportioning valves. I run a simple Wilwood adjustable valve in located in the cockpit and no factory proportioning valve.

Lastly, brake pads. What pads are you using? I use Pagid Blue. No fade. And almost zero noise.

Oh yeah... one more thing. I'm assuming you're using a power bleeder. Make sure you bleed at the master cylinder as well as the brake calipers.


TonyG
Old 08-23-2008, 05:00 PM
  #70  
special tool
Banned
 
special tool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: limbo....
Posts: 8,599
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by TonyG

Oh yeah... one more thing. I'm assuming you're using a power bleeder. Make sure you bleed at the master cylinder as well as the brake calipers.


TonyG


This is a good point.
Old 08-23-2008, 07:01 PM
  #71  
333pg333
Rennlist Member
 
333pg333's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 18,926
Received 98 Likes on 81 Posts
Default

"Well...
a larger hydraulic piston displaces more, so it will require more fluid to move it.
There is no question there.

Patrick - I would suggest that instead you investigate the MC fitted by the Porsche factory for use with these calipers, and measure the bore....
THEN look for something that fits.
Probably you can find an MC with a bore within 3% or so that will fit."

Actually I did pursue this also. The 993 has the same M/C as us and the 993tt has a different system altogether that wouldn't work with ours. Off the top of my head I can't remember
why, it was last year that I found this out and my tiny mind can't keep all this stuff in.


"f the issue is simply pedal travel, then you could simply pull the brake pedal and drill in 2nd hole in the pedal so the the clevis ratio is faster (which would be away from the pedal pivot point). Go small. 1/4" should make it quite a bit faster and should make the pedal harder since the leverage will be reduced.

The other thing is the factory proportioning valves. I run a simple Wilwood adjustable valve in located in the cockpit and no factory proportioning valve.

Lastly, brake pads. What pads are you using? I use Pagid Blue. No fade. And almost zero noise.

Oh yeah... one more thing. I'm assuming you're using a power bleeder. Make sure you bleed at the master cylinder as well as the brake calipers.


TonyG"

Tony, I have thought of that. By changing the fulcrum would it have a favourable effect on my situation? S'pose it's a cheap fix and worth a try. However if it's a matter of the brake travel being too long due to hydraulic pressures, would this change?
The pads I was using initially were EBC. To be honest I don't think these were up to the task. When I switched to PFC (01 f 97 r) there was a dramatic improvement in the bite and retardation. I mean I could go WAAAYYY later into corners so that was a good thing. The fact that they throw so much dust was worth it. However that didn't really change the pedal travel.
My mechanic uses Pagid Blues and I have just switched over to try these. Yes we use a power bleeder. I'll double check on the bleeding from the M/C.
Also there is a school of thought that believes that RHD cars are more susceptible to longer brake travel due to the extra distance of the hydraulics.
Old 08-23-2008, 07:43 PM
  #72  
TonyG
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Thread Starter
 
TonyG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 5,978
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 333pg333

TonyG"

Tony, I have thought of that. By changing the fulcrum would it have a favourable effect on my situation? S'pose it's a cheap fix and worth a try. However if it's a matter of the brake travel being too long due to hydraulic pressures, would this change?
Yes. For sure. Plus it will act quicker, thus you really want to start of something like a Pagid Blue before going to anything that a higher initial bite (grabbier).

1/4" will make a good deal of difference (you might want more or less). Once you get the throw correct, you can then adjust the pedal height so that when fully engaged, it lines up with the gas pedal.


Originally Posted by 333pg333

The pads I was using initially were EBC.
Can't comment on those pads. Never used them.


Originally Posted by 333pg333
Also there is a school of thought that believes that RHD cars are more susceptible to longer brake travel due to the extra distance of the hydraulics.
The brake fluid doesn't compress. So no, the length won't make any difference.

Your master cylinder piston moves X amount of fluid per stroke. Once the brake lines are full of fluid, that X amount of stroke will always result in the same quantity of fluid moved across the line and out the other end, whether the brake line is 1" long or 1 mile long.



Quick Reply: :-) gotta post this pic here ... mu ha ha



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 10:46 AM.