My norwegian track car
#19
Rennlist Member
Have you actually driven with those wheel/tyres on the car yet? What year model is it?
Tell us more about that custom oil feed, looks different?
Tell us more about that custom oil feed, looks different?
#21
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Norway
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
no, I have not driven with that large front tires before. So I dont know how it is.. the car is a 86.
since I have removed the balance shafts, I tapped a 1/8"NPT hole in where the oil come from under the crank bearing. and used a 1/8-AN4 adapter. and from there a AN4 hose out to the turbo. pretty easy job.
here you can se I have grinded down a bit, not finished tough. and that I have tapped.
since I have removed the balance shafts, I tapped a 1/8"NPT hole in where the oil come from under the crank bearing. and used a 1/8-AN4 adapter. and from there a AN4 hose out to the turbo. pretty easy job.
here you can se I have grinded down a bit, not finished tough. and that I have tapped.
#22
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Norway
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
here are some pics from an event I was driving on, 23/7..
It was exiting to try the car for the first time this year, and with the block Gabe shipped to me. it worked really great
I just hope the engine dont die on me again this year, I'm tired taking engines in and out!!
to fall the engine gets a total rebuild again, now with tec3r stand alone system, full ported head and with some bad *** camshaft.
I will reuse the JE pistons and pauter rods, and the balanced crank since it got no damage from the cracked cylinder. very lucky!
I only have to change the piston rings, since they got the beating from the crack. it also helped with extra piston to wall clearence.
I need a new intake manifold, what do you guys suggest I do?
-Buy from LR
-Buy from SFR
-Or get a custom made one?
I 390hp and 483nm on the wheels, with the other block. not bad with the crappy LR maf and piggyback. and stock head, cam, ignition..
next year I will make some serious HP for sure
It was exiting to try the car for the first time this year, and with the block Gabe shipped to me. it worked really great
I just hope the engine dont die on me again this year, I'm tired taking engines in and out!!
to fall the engine gets a total rebuild again, now with tec3r stand alone system, full ported head and with some bad *** camshaft.
I will reuse the JE pistons and pauter rods, and the balanced crank since it got no damage from the cracked cylinder. very lucky!
I only have to change the piston rings, since they got the beating from the crack. it also helped with extra piston to wall clearence.
I need a new intake manifold, what do you guys suggest I do?
-Buy from LR
-Buy from SFR
-Or get a custom made one?
I 390hp and 483nm on the wheels, with the other block. not bad with the crappy LR maf and piggyback. and stock head, cam, ignition..
next year I will make some serious HP for sure
#24
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Cheshire, England & Trosa, Sweden
Posts: 1,837
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
WOW - That looks like its going to kick some ***
Just a quick question - I though drift cars needed much stiffer rear spring than at the front.
You state that you are running:
"Bilstein escort cup coilovers, 850ibs at front, 600ibs at rear. deleted torsion bars."
Woulsn't you be better with 650 front and 1000 rear?
Can't weight to see some videos
Just a quick question - I though drift cars needed much stiffer rear spring than at the front.
You state that you are running:
"Bilstein escort cup coilovers, 850ibs at front, 600ibs at rear. deleted torsion bars."
Woulsn't you be better with 650 front and 1000 rear?
Can't weight to see some videos
#26
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Norway
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks yes cylinder 4 cracked during tuning the car. the engine lost all water, and it did not pump in new water. damn, that sucked!!
here is a video from the day the engine blew.
future: your right. it is too soft in the rear. but one thing, I have 850 in rear, and 600 at front. sorry, I wrote wrong..
at full boost, the rear end gets pulled down. its strange, it should be very stiff at that setup.
do you think it would help with 1000ibs+ at rear? or is it the shock/coilover that is too soft?
if I want it ultra stiff, I think I have to change to some other coilover
I think it was -2.5 degrees..
videos coming soon!
here is a video from the day the engine blew.
future: your right. it is too soft in the rear. but one thing, I have 850 in rear, and 600 at front. sorry, I wrote wrong..
at full boost, the rear end gets pulled down. its strange, it should be very stiff at that setup.
do you think it would help with 1000ibs+ at rear? or is it the shock/coilover that is too soft?
if I want it ultra stiff, I think I have to change to some other coilover
I think it was -2.5 degrees..
videos coming soon!
#27
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
haha stian, looking SWEET I think we need to change setups, my car needs a softer ***, and your a harder, my car is oversteer oversteer oversteer now
are you attending the porsche club norway day the 16th? I should have a LSD tranny, and new rear suspension setup by then.
my rear springs are only 120N, but the valveing makes it hard, so I gotto loosen up bump/rebound a few twists on the KW. it moves like.. 1cm at max now I think
what shocks do you run now? I think thats more your problem than springs alone.
are you attending the porsche club norway day the 16th? I should have a LSD tranny, and new rear suspension setup by then.
my rear springs are only 120N, but the valveing makes it hard, so I gotto loosen up bump/rebound a few twists on the KW. it moves like.. 1cm at max now I think
what shocks do you run now? I think thats more your problem than springs alone.
#28
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Cheshire, England & Trosa, Sweden
Posts: 1,837
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes you are running the wrong setup mate regards suspension!
I was the person that built the RX7 FD3S D1GT VeilSide car which was featured in the video game Juiced which I am sure you know. I have also built my own S14 C-WEST drift car and know this industry very well.
I will send you a PM tomorrow mate with what you need to do but my first advice is to drop the Bilstien suspension mate – it is NOT up to the job!
I have always used Tein and there EDFC controller – go do a search mate – This S41T is the business and ran it in a M3 E46 CSL!
As you say you are running with a T-Bar delete (independent) you need about 1100 rear and 700 front and your front tyres are far too wide – Get some tyres stretched over those rims and solid bush (235).
I'm sure you understand that the 951 has a heavy steering response and poor self center but I will deal with this in a PM to you tomorrow.
I will also post some pictures of the international Drift Cars we have built as I'm sure you will all enjoy even though they are Rice and an industry I am no longer involved with due to my love of Porsche!!!
I also have very good relations with the ‘Police Drift 350Z’ in Russia which are in a class of their own and my friend runs the car.
Given the right chassis dynamics and tyres you will run extremely well but will never have the steering feedback of the FD’s, S14a, S15 unless you get a quick rack and or some slimmer fronts mate.
You know the game … Fast in – Break – Lift off (over steer) and then power (over steer) better than us
I’m looking forward to some videos from you as this is a seriously growing sport and any Porsche owner entering this is a GOD in my opinion
Best regards
Mark
I was the person that built the RX7 FD3S D1GT VeilSide car which was featured in the video game Juiced which I am sure you know. I have also built my own S14 C-WEST drift car and know this industry very well.
I will send you a PM tomorrow mate with what you need to do but my first advice is to drop the Bilstien suspension mate – it is NOT up to the job!
I have always used Tein and there EDFC controller – go do a search mate – This S41T is the business and ran it in a M3 E46 CSL!
As you say you are running with a T-Bar delete (independent) you need about 1100 rear and 700 front and your front tyres are far too wide – Get some tyres stretched over those rims and solid bush (235).
I'm sure you understand that the 951 has a heavy steering response and poor self center but I will deal with this in a PM to you tomorrow.
I will also post some pictures of the international Drift Cars we have built as I'm sure you will all enjoy even though they are Rice and an industry I am no longer involved with due to my love of Porsche!!!
I also have very good relations with the ‘Police Drift 350Z’ in Russia which are in a class of their own and my friend runs the car.
Given the right chassis dynamics and tyres you will run extremely well but will never have the steering feedback of the FD’s, S14a, S15 unless you get a quick rack and or some slimmer fronts mate.
You know the game … Fast in – Break – Lift off (over steer) and then power (over steer) better than us
I’m looking forward to some videos from you as this is a seriously growing sport and any Porsche owner entering this is a GOD in my opinion
Best regards
Mark
#30
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Cheshire, England & Trosa, Sweden
Posts: 1,837
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
KW Var. 3 mate - this is by far the best offered for our cars at the moment with Helper Springs!
Anybody running anything else which can better than this setup I need to know!!!!!!
Anybody running anything else which can better than this setup I need to know!!!!!!