kiyoskia

Spit-shine with a dirty rag... Yeah, I can't care until my bodywork is done.

DFASTEST951

http://www.gurureports.org/specialre...waxtest.1.html

Here's the link to the wax test. 46 different waxes. Seperated by Carnuba and the chemical ones. Then put in price catagories and best one for their price range. In the end, the top waxes regardless of price was PS21 for the Chemical makeup and Zaino for the Carnuba. You know, the funny thing is they had a hard time working with Zaino at first and then when they used a lot less it came out right and wowed everyone.
Funnier yet was that Turtle Wax came out on top in their price catagory.

Bottom line, it's Zaino and PS21. There are quite a few of us who have nice paint. This report could save these pages on this thread. Get the report, that's all that's needed to see when you see how they were tested.

future

You guys have made some very valid points and the gurureports.org review was an interesting read and it’s also been long overdue that we discuss this aspect of car care in the transaxle forum as most would not really want to read dedicated detailing threads unless they are dedicated to our own car models.

The bottom line is to use the best you can afford. This doesn’t mean that you should go out and buy every product from a particular brand. Better to choose a quality paint cleaner (pre-wax), invest in quality detailing microfiber polishing cloths and the best wax with as high an amount of Carnauba white #1 content you can afford. By taking this approach over the years you can start building your detailing kit and learn as you go.

What I can also say is that the more expensive waxes do take longer and are harder to use which is why I recommend the Zuffenhausen and 356 waxes.

Yes preparation is everything and let’s be honest nobody really likes washing their car – To most it’s more a chore than enjoyment but there is nothing better than standing back after all your hard work and seeing your car look just as good if not better than the day it left the factory.

Myself and Beni are by no means professional detailers and we wrote our detailing guides to help you achieve the same results as the pros. And understand the products they use better.

Yes some things need to be left to the pros such as compounding which helps remove heavy paint swirls and orange peel which is associated with a poor paint spray finish even associated with most new cars and that is why you see and read reports about luxury cars being detailed.

Regarding investing in a quality valleting kit will pay dividends when you come to sell the car and YES I agree it is hard to tell the visual difference from many on the market but the same can’t be said a week or 2 after doing the job and that’s why we chose Swissvax over anything else on the market.

Some of the Swissvax products are seriously expensive but I guess for the fortunate few who can afford a CGT, Lambo, Maybach etc then who’s worries about money.

There is no real science regarding detailing your car, but what I can say is like everything in life – The more you do it the better and faster you become. Detailing is best if working on a panel at a time and NEVER do it in direct sunlight.

The SWISSVAX Zuffenhausen and 356 waxes are realistically priced and will provide a few years of application use before you need to reinvest – typically you will get 8-10 finished from one 200ml pot.

We all know what most tyre black products are like … They look great when you use them but the minute you take your car out for a drive in the rain the products seam to just vanish and unfortunately this is the same for many waxes out there and that’s what makes ‘water beading’ so important – The better the wax can repel water the cleaner your car will stay and the easier it is to wash the next time round.

Carnuba is without doubt the best wax content to use and comes in various different colours (brown, yellow and white) the lighter the colour the better and more exclusive (expensive) with White #1 being the very best and anything over 40% by volume is a very good start.

Basically as you apply it onto your car and then buff it of it leaves a thin layer of protective film (the Carnuba) which to the eye looks like a coat of clear lacquer ‘hence the deep shine’ but more importantly the coat of “Carnuba” wax goes hard ‘very hard’ helping protect even against stone chipping not to mention it’s excellent UV properties and longevity.

I guess this is why GT Porsche magazine rate Swissvax also as the number one product for your Porsche!

Obviously I could rant and rave all day long about why we choose this but all I can say is give it a try and you will never look back

LFA951

I use T.F.P.- Total Finish Protection with Teflon, which is not ridiculously priced like some of this other stuff. I got it at the last Auto Show for a promotional price of $20 for a 32 oz. bottle. It works great and beads like the other ones...very happy with it so far...

Mighty Shilling

For what it's worth, I like orange peel. I don't like severe ammounts of it for sure, but a little bit, so that when I'm done waxing the car I don't start fighting my reflection is good...

Mighty Shilling

I'll give it a go... send me a can.

333pg333

...Speedbump...
Nobody? It's like going to a winetasting with all you wax connoisseurs lol.
http://www.5starshine.com/spo.html?g...FRwbagodxTUZIA

mikeroz

I´ve got a question for you Future. The wax that´s recommended for Porsches; what happens if your car has been resprayed?
Surely these waxes specified for porsches are specified on the basis of the original paint manufacturer specified by porsche. If your car has been resprayed with the OE paint then no problems but how often can we be certain that that is the case.
My car was refinished with dupont last year. I assume then that there is no guarantee that the porsche waxes would be any better for my car than any of the other swisswaxes or to that mind something like zymol concours etc.
What are your thoughts on this?
Cheers
Mike

LFA951

Someone told me that NU Finish in the orange bottle is really good, they advertise "the once a year car polish."

Burma Shave

Your car can't be "resprayed" with OE paint. Refinish products are completely different than OE finishes. You can get the same brand but not the same product. OE finishes must be baked at temperatures that would damage electronics and are much harder and have a much lower film build than refinish products.

mikeroz

OK, so the question I have then is what if any benefit is there from using a Porsche specific wax on a 18 + year old car that very probably has been refinished during it´s life-time?
Mike

Jfrahm

How does a robotic arm paint job cause orange peel? I thought Orange Peel was caused... by me painting something (bad technique) or by environmental issues. I usually get it when I lay on too much paint too quickly.

Were 924/944/968 cars pained by hand?

-Joel.

blown 944

All paint orange peels to a certain degree when applied, unless it is put on very heavy and then it may even drip run or otherwise. The factories are most likely trying to avoid runs, drips, errors hence the peel. Plus they are on a production line so the dry times must be faster.

In my experience to get a perfectly flat paint job it must be wet sanded and buffed.

SpeedBump

LOL
I use the Klasse twins- I get a good 6 months out of them normally and my truck still beaded water after 12 months when I pressure washed it Saturday.

333pg333

Haha, I didn't actually mean you Speedbump, just that I felt like one in this post with all the experts on car wax and my impertinence of asking about that apparent Snakeoil product. lol