ebs

My 951 was last driven 3 weeks ago. When starting it today, it did not want to idle, revs kept dropping and it would make a metallic noise. Engine sounded odd as did sound from the exhaust. In addition, the engine (and the whole car) was shaking badly (engine mounts are both quite new). I changed DME relay - made no difference.

Under the car I found a small pool of some grey/black coloured substance - looked too thin to be oil. I checked dipstick and oil colour appeared to be okay, but found some very small black specs (possibly metallic) on the dipstick. Coolant appeared okay.
The engine bay smelt a bit funny too - a bit like fuel.

I finally managed to get the car to idle by holding my foot on the accelerator gently. After it had warmed up a bit, I managed to drive it around the block. It didn't sound healthy at all (oil pressure was good though). When I tried to accelerate a bit harder, the car hesitated, didn't want to build boost and then back-fired loudly. I drove it straight home, opened the engine lid (hood) and saw some smoke from the rear of the engine bay on the exhaust manifold side. I also noticed that on the second header pipe, where the second from front pipe of exhaust manifold joins the engine, there was a bit of black sludge on the outside where the manifold pipe meets with the engine.

When I bought the car 6 years ago, I was told that the heater had been clamped off in the engine bay, which didn't worry me as I don't use the heater ever, living in Australia. The last person to drive the car was my dad, who accidentally turned it on from inside the car. Not sure if this could have created problems.

Car is stock except for guru chips, bsost controller at 15psi and high pressure fuel regulator. Is an 86 model with a total of 110,000km (65,000 miles).

I've very worried something has gone bad. Please help - all thoughts appreciated.


Thanks
Ebs

PS sorry for long post

Ski

I would start by checking my timing belt and make sure the mark on the cam gear, aligns with the mark on the back of the gear cover - this aligns with the notch in the flywheel, which you can see through the notched opening in the bell housing.

Change the oil, check the plug (for metal) get some cheese cloth, which the oil can drain through in your collection tub, again to see if you see any metal.

check all your hoses to and from the intercooler, and the throttle body for cracks. check all your vac lines.

ebs

Thanks for your reply Ski. Why would you suspect the timing belt? (It was checked not that long ago - needs to be changed at next service, but my mechanic said it was okay for now).

333pg333

I had a look at some of your previous posts as I hadn't seen you in here (being an Aussie) and it seems like you've had similar issues with your car before. Did you ever solve it then?
Which city are you in?

ebs

All the other issues have turned out to be nothing - this is the first time where there's something serious. I'm in WA, how about you?

OZ951

Your smoke issue is probably oil seepage that started to burn off as the car got warm, probably more noticeable because the car had been sitting for a while. Quite possibly the same thing for the sludge on the header. The backfiring and poor running may be timing related. Check the distributor rotor has not loosened - the grub screw can back out and allow the rotor to shift.

lart951

That's is scary, metallic noise omg.

ebs

Thanks for your replies. I will check the distributor. Any other thoughs appreciated.

Cory9584

Thats what i thought

hally

Lart shipping would be too much for you to make it worthwile

ebs

Just checked, distributor cover in place. All boost and vacuum tubes seem fine as does everything else just by looking at it. Oil on dipstick is clean this morning.

I haven't checked timing/cam belt - will need a mechanic for that. Other than that, not sure where to go now.

If the cambelt had broken, how would I know? If there was a big end failure, what would happen?

Spidey944

if it were broken entirely the car would not run. If it has sheered off a few teeth, it would run very poorly, and poss. damage some valves in the process.

OZ951

Its not the distributor cap you need to check its the rotor. It's held onto the end of the camshaft by a small screw. Take the distributor cap off and see if you can rotate the rotor by hand - you shouldn't be able to, if you can its because the small retaining screw has backed out.

The metallic noises and shaking are also likely to be symptomatic of your timing being off. The thin grey liquid under the car, did it look like water with soot in it - ie condensed water from your exhaust blowing out of a minor leak under the car?

ebs

Thanks for all your replies.

I figured it out...the number 2 cylinder was not firing - pulled a plug lead and made no difference. Pulled the plug and found it was all fouled (with fuel). Replaced it with number 4 plug and car is fine. The question is...how did it happen.? Any thoughts? My guess would be poor compression on that cylinder. I'll get a set of NGK plugs to replace the Bosch ones I have. I guess I should also organise for compression and leak down?

xsboost90

could be bad ignition wires. Ive had brand new ones that didnt fire on two cylinders before- swapped them for the opposite cylinder and the problem moved. COuld have also just had a bad connection or moisture buildup making them arc on the head.