BlacknRedGT

Well Im in the process of removing the balance and timing belt and taking off all the rollers/sprockets to inspect and change the seals. Before I start everything today I was just wondering do I need to take all of the sprockets off?? I wasnt sure if there was a seal behind each one or what the deal is. Do I need to put anytype of greese on the new oil seals that are going in or just leave them dry?

Thanks in advance. Just want to make sure I do it right the first time.

OZ951

Yes the sprockets need to come off. A bit of engine oil on the seals is all you need.Keep an eye out for the poly washers (wafer thin plastic seals) they can be almost invisible with a bit of oil on them.

BlacknRedGT

thanks... well Im off to try and see how much I can get done. Ill prob end having more questions before Im done.

Darwantae951

The upper balance shaft seals are easy to replace. The seal housing comes off with only 3 bolts. Like OZ said, don't forget about the very thin clear washers. Mine actually stuck to the balance shaft and did not come out with the housing. The lower balance shaft housing will be a little more interesting. It also is what the power steering pump attaches to. It's not TOO hard, but a little more involved than the upper. The crank shaft seal can be a real pain, so just go at it carefully and make sure not to damage it. Each balance shaft should have the main seal, an o-ring, and a thin clear seal. The crank shaft should just have a seal (unless you remove the oil pump drive gear, that has an 0-ring) Will you be doing the camshaft as well? It has a main seal, o-ring, and thin clear seal as well. I replaced everything in ~2 hrs (the crank shaft seal gave me hell). Good luck!

-Darwin

(P.S. in my above paragraph, when I say balance shaft housing I am refering to the housing on the front of the engine, not the housing running along the side of the block)

BlacknRedGT

Here is where Im at... This job is A WHOLE LOT easier then doing the clutch job. Only problem is I stripped that 3mm screw on the "dizzy cap". Whats the best way to get this out?? ohh and what kind of pliers do I need to get to the seals?

Darwantae951

You can pry in the center against the races, they are steel so you won't hurt them. Just be careful. If you are going to use the screw trick, be sure to have a drill, as it will be hard to get it started thru the metal layers in the seal.

-Darwin

Darwantae951

Oh and for the rotor, if you want, you can take out the bolt that is 180 of that tiny 3mm allen bolt. Then the rotor will slide out, exposing the triple square 12mm bolt that holds the cam gear on.

-Darwin

xtaC

Bone, top shelf and useful replies mate !!

Darwantae951

Thanks! Glad I'm actually beginning to contribute!

-Darwin

BlacknRedGT

Thanks for the reply... I knew the bolt was down there but didnt know I could skip taking the 3mm screw out so that works out great.

hosrom_951

I would replace the water pump while all that is out, since you would do the whole jo again if it fails soon.

Removing the radiator and the fans gives so much room to remove the p/s, ac, balance shaft and timing belt pulleys.

kevincnc

When you do eventually want to get that 3mm screw out, you can cut a screwdriver slot in it with a hacksaw or dremmel instead of drilling it out.

CurlyDE

I would also recommend replacing the sleeves that go on the balance shafts. If you do not replace these and they are worn then you will still be leaking oil. They are cheap enough that it is worth replacing.

The first time I replaced my front seals I did not replace these ... the car still poured oil out of the lower balance shaft area. After pulling it all apart again I found a groove in the sleeve ...

http://www.paragon-products.com/prod...105.139.02.htm

Darwantae951

To caveat this, when you replace the seals, the sleeves will fall out easily. If they have any kind of groove worn in them they should be replaced. That groove will allow oil to get by!

-Darwin

cruise98

it looks like you have an '86. Here is a parts list that i have had around for years. Good luck with the project.

944 8 VALVE FRONT ENGINE SEALS, BELTS & WATER PUMP PARTS LIST
From engine # 43F 06995 (1985) thru 1986 8 valve engines

Camshaft

1 each O-ring 999.701.602.40
1 each Woodruff key (optional) 900.117.045.00
1 each O-ring (onion skin) 944.105.321.00
1 each Spacer 928.105.139.04
1 each Seal 999.113.349.40
1 each Bolt (optional) 999.510.022.08
1 each Toothed roller 944.105.027.04
1 each Stud 944.102.216.01
1 each Flanged Nut 944.102.243.00
1 each Locknut N .022.149.0
1 each Washer N .011.527.12
1 each 7 mm Spacer (you can shim with washers) 944.107.911.01
1 each Smooth roller (for updated pump) 944.105.241.03
1 each Rubber seal 928.105.184.00
1 each Belt 944.105.157.04

Crankshaft

1 each Seal 999.113.331.50
1 each Sleeve (oil pump drive) 944.107.161.02
1 each O-ring 999.707.283.40
1 each Woodruff key (optional) 900.117.036.00

Balance shafts

1 each Seal (upper, cw rotation) 999.113.282.40
1 each Seal (lower, ccw rotation) 999.113.281.40
2 each Spacer 928.105.139.02
2 each O-ring (same as cam) 944.105.321.00
2 each O-ring 999.701.652.40
2 each Woodruff keys (optional) N 012.708.2
1 each Toothed roller 944.102.025.07
1 each Smooth roller 944.102.277.06
2 each Locknuts N .022.149.0
2 each Washers N .011.527.12
1 each Belt 944.102.219.02

Water pump

1 each Water Pump 951.106.021.10
1 each Water Pump Gasket 944.106.132.04
1 each Block off plate (NA only) 944.106.313.00
1 each O-ring 999.707.283.40
2 each Bolt 6 x 20mm (optional) N .014.704.1
2 each Washer (optional) N .011.524.7
1 each Thermostat 944.106.019.00
1 each Support Washer 900.234.160.00
1 each T-stat O-ring 944.106.929.08 or
944.106.929.05
1 each T-stat snap ring (can be reused) 900.042.025.01

The two items below are only required if the car has never been updated or the parts are damaged or missing
1 each Guard rail (for updated pump) 944.105.210.01
2 each Lock nuts (for guard rail) 999.084.092.02

Notes:
1. Spacers and oil pump sleeve should be replaced if they have wear grooves, or burrs which could damage a new seal. Use some fine
grade scotch brite to clean up the old ones, but replace them if in doubt.
2. The front crank seal is prone to leaking if not installed perfectly. I use an old crank gear and oil pump sleeve that I honed the center
bore of to make it easy to slide on and off the crank, and use these two as pressing tools along with the crank bolt to press the seal
in squarely until flush with the oil pump face.
3. The balance shaft front housings must be removed to properly reseal them.
4. Oil seals and o–rings must be thoroughly lubricated before installation.
5. For coolant, use a phosphate and silicate free coolant mixed with distilled water. Zerex extreme extended life is one example. VW,
Toyota, Honda and others have the correct kind, but it is typically pricey.