how screwed am i ? WP stud fubar...
#16
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Sounds like when I had one of the cam housing bolts snap off. Then, as I tried drilling it out the drill bit broke.
I ended up having to take it to a friend's and use a drill press to drill the hole out with a reverse direction drill bit (try one of those maybe?) and re-tap the hole to use an oversized bolt.
I ended up having to take it to a friend's and use a drill press to drill the hole out with a reverse direction drill bit (try one of those maybe?) and re-tap the hole to use an oversized bolt.
#17
Burning Brakes
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You could try a Dremel with a center boring bit, some are tungsten or carbide, and it may cut into the extractor. I use left handed bit when drilling out bolts. Anything to increase my odds in removing the damaged bolt.
Good luck Dan
Good luck Dan
#18
RL Community Team
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#19
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Sorry to hear about that Dan. I tried numerous things trying to remove a broken extractor in the past and what worked best for me as a last resort was using a solid carbide drill bit (https://www.supertoolinc.com/product...t&l=5374&sc=23). They are not cheap and they are quite brittle so you have to really pay attention, but they are extremely hard and will go through just about anything. Of course this assumes that the surface your drilling into is relatively flat.
#20
Quit Smokin'
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Dan, If it seems as though you are heading down the path to FUBAR, you might call your local machine shop to see if they can help you. I know you like to do the work yourself, but removing broken extractors is a bitch, and it would be a shame to ruin the block. Even if you had to remove the engine without dissasembling it, thats not much time for you!
#22
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i can get straight to it w/ the radiator out and the plastic shields for the IC out of the way. Im not taking the motor out again and taking it apart no way. I bought some better bits and another set of extractors today- we'll see what that does.
#24
Three Wheelin'
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Place a small nut over the extractor (figure a way to hold it there) and mig weld it (through the center hole) to the extractor/stud. Remove with wrench. This has saved me several times. ... Bruce
#25
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I was going to suggest using a dremel cutting wheel to cut a notch in the extractor and then use a screwdriver, but I like F18Rep's idea better. Guess you need a mig welder, though.
#26
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ive done that before too. Problem is the thing is snapped off down in the hole and from trying to tap it out the back into the coolant passage i cant tell where the extractor stops and the aluminum starts... Im going to try some heat and a pick tonite.
#28
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This has happened to my Dad before, thankfully with only one stud, and he had a little nub to work with for about five hours. With a butane torch and a LOT of patience he got it out. Now each WP stud gets at least 3-4 generous sprays with PB blaster and 8 hours to penetrate before he even touches them. Even with PB blaster, breaking the WP studs loose will always be a nail-biting task.
#29
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i'll try the heat and pick method tonite. If that doesnt work i'll see if i can mig something onto the end of it...uhg. You sure i need those two studs? i can use some killer silicone sealer!