Very nice. Would be a popular product in California. Didn't realize you were a fellow yellow zinc plating junky. Looks great.

 

Great !

This is one of the jobs I consider doing next.

 

That looks really great, just the sort of thing I like to see!

Which MAF (-kit) is it based on ?

Did you need to re-tune compared to using the MAF at the "normal" location ?

 

Wow. The best stealth MAF fabrication ever. Congrats, and looking forward to hearing how well it works!

Then you need to look up the hardware plating oddyssey thread with the incredible before/after pics he posted.

 

Excellent job, I like!

I haven't noticed this before, very interesting...I should have tested this on a dyno too. My car was dynoed ( before I started playing with bigger parts ) 348 fwhp with the snorkel and airbox, so it really had more power in the back pocket...

I've also seen the light and walked that path too.

 

+1. I'm thinking of trying to do the same but my fabrication expertise is crap. I need a spare air box first.

 

I'm glad you guys like it, if my wife tries to put me in the loony bin, I can use this thread in my defense

Tom, here's that plating thread that Luis is talking about - https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ne+restoration
If I hadn't already gone through all that work, I wouldn't have gone through all this work.

tommye, I started with a Vitesse stealth MAF kit. The tuning did change a little. That's why I also got a wideband and Vitesse piggyback before doing this. I just need to add a little more fuel now. It's possible that it could be tuned properly using the FQS and/or one of the different selectable maps on the Vitesse chip/board, I don't know, but the piggyback makes it easy. A word of warning: John at Vitesse recommends not removing the MAF sensor from the tube without risking ruining it. It has tamper-proof screws, so I'm thinking that taking it apart that way would ruin it. I left that assembly alone, and cut the whole thing off of the tube, then reinstalled it on a new tube of the same (3") diameter. So technically I removed the tube from the sensor, not the sensor from the tube as John warned about. John also told me he cannot get just the sensor by itself, it comes mounted in the tube so if you wreck it it's not cheap.

Raj, feel free to e-mail or PM me any time, PM might be better so it doesn't go into my junk mail.

Below are a few more pictures showing the mill setup. I feel pretty lucky that I got through the whole thing without ruining anything. I came close near the end when the AFM housing got yanked out or the vise while milling clearance for the MAF sensor. There's not much to hold onto toward the end, and I was taking too heavy of a cut. I used a die grinder to finish after that close call.

For the airbox construction, here's a thread detailing that- https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...=airbox+opened

On the AFM, the first thing I did was remove the vanes and shaft/bearings with a combination of cutting with a dremmel, hole saw, hammer, punch, pliers, you name it. Next I made a fixture plate to make the 3" hole all the way through.

This picture shows the setup to grind the 3" hole saw down to the proper diameter for a good fit with the tube. Without doing this, the hole would be too big.


This is the fixture to cut the hole.


Here are a few more random pics-

 

Just amazing. I will PM you.
Raj

 

Are you going to wrap the snorkel or leave it open?

 

I'm going to try to insert a fabbed 3" aluminum tube through it with appropriate bends, then fill in the exposed part on the bottom with fiberglass or something that will blend with the plastic. I don't know if it's going to work yet though.

 

I really like this mod

 

Kevin, it looks really nice, but I'm not surprised. It appears that you modified the length of the original MAF sensor, therefor you "could have" affected the dynamic calibration of the sensor. With the PiggyBack, you can compensate for some changes. Make sure you double check your AFR across the powerband/boost before calling it done.

 

Thanks John, I figured diameter would be more important than length but it seems to be fine. I just took advantage of a long, closed road by my house and did some tuning. I basically just had to add fuel across the board with the global analog fuel zero calibration, and took it back out on the idle and low-load cells. AFR looks good now at partial and WOT, and the car feels great. I can't wait to see what the snorkle will do

Edit: Just to clarify, I didn't change the length of the sensor, I cut the rivets and removed the original tube completely before installing it on the new tube if that's what you meant.

 

You can email the map file, I'll check it out. When a MAF is calibrated, its position and depth in the pipe as well as the length of the pipe are very important. You change any of the variables and the calibration is off. Which you discoverd as you had to alter the fuel curve.

Glad you got it working, a very nice job.

 

I'll send it tomorrow, thanks!