TurboTommy

88BlueTSiQuest;

Lorax is right; he just commented on the fact that the original poster might think the methanol is similar to a nitrous kick, which is far from the truth. If you don't up the boost, the added power from just the little extra charge cooling is minimal.

I haven't come across the perfect WI kit. The snow performance kit is far from being the best. Their pump is good, and their plumbing is good. Their safety system sucks; they don't have proper valves for preventing siphoning and/or that the system is always primmed. This is crucial.

Aquamist doesn't cater to those who want to run higher percentages of methanol; their pump is a bit flimsy. Other than that, everything else is good.

Lorax

From what I have heard the aquamist nozzles are really high quality too. You could just use those and the aquamist management system with all its little bells and whistles and find your own pump pretty easily.

BC

All aluminum needs to be replaced or electro plated with nickel. Rubber lines need to be replaced with Telfon-lined lines, or figure out the rubber used in the flex fuel vehicles.

There will be one in North COunty soon.

S2cab

Here's another company: http://coolingmist.com/

fastmover

The snow kit is pretty rugged, I had no problems with it, the aquamist kit is very much the same, but the pump is not as reliable, they both use map sensor to monitor flow, and the snow kit also had a safeguard that put your car in safe mode if it detected a flow problem. I also had an led panel that shoewd when it was flowing or if it was not flowing, and fluid level. I had no problems with the kit, but you have to maintain fluid level. In all actuality the system is a very simple system, they are not very different from each other. I just have user expeirance with the snow kit, with out a lick of problems. I never ran out of fluid while in boost either.

the aquamist also sends out a signal to shut boost down only, "to minimize damage" the snow would shut down boost and timing depending on how you set it up. so really both systems are the same in design. neither has a technical edge on the other system. So I dont see how the aquamist is "far superior to other systems".

95ONE

No. you're taking it out of proportion. This is just not true. This is NOT methanol.

BC

Well, then I'll just say that is what the corporations are doing to protect their parts from ethanol, such as the gas filler makers, the tank makers, pumps, etc that will be used at the gas stations dispensing ethanol.

I understand ethanol is not methanol, but it is still hydroscopic, and will still be detrimental to aluminum and uncoated steel if left to sit. I want all of my stuff to last a long time, with no corrosion issues.

The alcohol has some sort of characteristic that makes it able to absorb into rubber - thats how the rubber gets destroyed. Or so I read.

I have done hours of research on this subject, and spoken to race mechanics about alchy and methanol.

Methanol is indeed much worse. So much that usuallly its a good idea to run the engine on gas after EVERY methanol use so as to not let corrosion start.

Ethanol is not nearly as bad, but still has some of the characteristics that make people blanch at methanol.

I made aluminum fuel rails before I knew I was going to use E85 or straight ethanol when able - so I have to coat them. Everything else I can buy tailored to its use. So the rails can be anodized or nickel plated.

The info is out there. Alot of people are against it, politically, and environmentally, and hot-rod-wise, people are against it because "It ate through my tank faster than I could put it in, blew up my engine, made me go blind, made my wife fat, and my kid stupid," and I am not expousing that mentality.

It does require (for long range use) more thought in the fuel system than gas.

Fishey

Laugh, all the kits mentioned here are not safe for use with Methanol. There are alot of things all of these kits have overlooked.

BC

You know that I am talking about running car entirely on ethanol right?

95ONE

agreed, it will eventually degrade aluminum. over a very long time. Not to worry about the aluminum heads as it should be a vapor by then and flow into the chamber. but the rubber hoses should be change at the same intervals as a gas vehicle. So shouldn't be an issue there. Steel gas tanks will get the varnish cleaned out. But steel is just fine for ethanol. Most any fuel pumps are made to resist it. (we're all due to change ours out at this time anyway.) Our Stock fuel rails are Steel with zinc Coating. So.... We're mostly there. Minimal change needed.

It's just that what you have said has been taken WAAAAAAY out of proportion on the internet and needs to be kept in check.

Still, it seems that we both still agree..... ethanol is an awesome fuel.

BC

Agreed. Looking forward to being able to find out the power limit of my block instead of when there is too much detonation.

Phil R

the new electronics offered by snow improve the kit substantially in my mind. however I'm not sure the modified surflow pump is designed to support the pressure needed to effectively run a WI. the snow pump is designed for flow not pressure. the most basic aquamist kit also uses a similar pump and this may be the pump you speak if. the higher end race pump is superior for this application. you need a pump that can support 200psi and few pumps can do that unless you know where to look. remember the water must evaporate to be effective so it must be atomised in much the same way fuel is suspended in air during combustion. the difference the fuel does not evaporate it is suspended then burned. the most important parts for WI is the pump, injector, and the safety alert component. in reality the safety feature is not a big deal unless you tune to the WI.

I'm in the process of designing my own system which will be cheaper and better then anything I've seen. better based on pump quality and a properly sized spray pattern. we'll see what happens.