xsboost90

i have to check to see what length i need though - im pretty sure they were just 8" but they could be 10". I have custom adapters on there to flip the shocks over so i can run shorter springs as well. Figured out im running too much dampning in the rear to keep it stiff so i want to upgrade from my 375lb springs- i have 400's in the front. If you have 450-500lb springs i would like to check them out. Dan.

Oddjob

Dan,

Do you have the t-bars still in the back?

Ive got some spare 9" 500 lb/in 2.25" ID Eibach coils. But not sure they will fit your rear coilover setup.

What rear shock are you running? Is it inverted? Height adjustment the upper or lower perch? Running RE type lower mounting bolts, through spherical bearings on the shock body, or the stock bolt through a factory type rubber bushing?

xsboost90

they are QA1 12 way adjustables- flipped w/ the adjustment on the bottom and cuztom cups so i can run shorter springs and get the spring away from the upper mount. Im pretty sure the hypercoils im running are 2.5" though. I still have the torsions but they are re-indexed. Stock style bolts but longer, going through a rubber mount w/ large washers.

shiners780

I've got some on eBay right now with no bids yet, I'll end it early if you want them.

http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZshiners780

They are 2.25" ID springs X 8" tall X 525#, barely used swapped out for higher rate.

Lemming

Dan,

I'm jumping to 600 all around. If it works, I will have a set of 450 hypercoils for sale. 8" with 2.25 inner diameter. PM me if interested.

By the way, I was running 400F/450R and the car was very neutral but had too much role even with M030's.

kasturbo

Guys, he needs 2.5" ID springs. The 2.25's won't work on QA1's.

87944turbo

Dan, I have some 2.5" Hypercoils. 425#s though, would have to check on the free length, but I think its 8".

xsboost90

hmmmmm...Ben i'll look at them tonite...

shiners780

https://rennlist.com/ads/ Rennlist Classifieds

Go to Parts & Wheels, then Racing Parts.

Brand new sets of Hypercoil springs for sale for $85/set. Many sizes and rates.

I bought some a while ago, quick shipping and a great deal.

Oddjob

Dan,

500 in the rear with t-bars, matched with 400 fronts, will tend to be somewhat dramatic oversteer on a Turbo for track use. May be ok for an auto-x setup.

What poor handling symptoms does your car exhibit now, and what is your use?

xsboost90

85% street/ 15% track but i dont mind the track-ish car for the street. The problem im having now is that w/ the t-bars and the coilovers if i drop the rebound down enough in the rear that the car is neutral then the car squats real bad and rubs the 295's i run on the street- so i tighten the coilovers up and then they dont rub, car drives great, but then the car has oversteer. Im thinking w/ a heavier rear spring i will have less squat w/o having to crank the coilovers up. I also have some super bounce action on the track if i hit a bump or anything. Even though i have the t-bars they are indexed such that i have to pull the arms down to put the coilovers on. I know that most think that i still have alot of spring from the torsions even w/ this setup but im thinking i dont have enough spring - maybe i'll pull the t-bars all together but my idea was to leave them in but neutral. I also have a 19mm adjustable rear sway set on full soft to try to correct the oversteer. Its much worse on the track when i run 245's all around vs. on the street w/ 225/295's obviously. I'm just searching for the neutral feeling my mostly stock n/a had on the track.

Oddjob

Where are the tires rubbing? Inner or outer? Can you solve the rub problem by changing camber a little, or running 1/8" spacers?

Yep, the heavier spring rate should reduce squatting. But it will also increase the oversteer tendancy, regardless of shock setting.

If youre getting oscillation when hitting a bump, thats not enough shock dampening. If its a single hard bounce/movement from hitting a bump, that will only get more severe with a higher spring rate. Sounds like your T-bars are indexed pretty close to ride height, so thats normal to have to wedge a 2x4 in the rear suspension to install the coilover.

Unfortunately Turbos may never get the same neutral feel as the lower powered N/As. They have a little more power-on oversteer that needs to be accounted for. So its common to setup turbos with a little lighter rear spring, in comparison to an N/A - at least I do.

I just think that going stiffer in the back will make the car even more unbalanced, even if it does solve the rubbing problem. I would rather drive a car that pushes on the street and is balanced on the track, than a car the oversteers on the track an handles good on the street.

At one point, I had to go back to a 16mm rear swaybar to dial out oversteer. Now, with different spring rates on the car, I swap between a 19mm and a 21mm rear bar depending on what rear wheel/tire widths I run.

xsboost90

the rubbing in the rear is simply because i have a 295 on there! I have spacers to keep them centered as close as possible- youll get an occational rub on the ds outer if you really take a hard right hander but thats all. Without the tightened coilovers it squats and rubs slightly - if i go to a higher spring rate and its more oversteer w/ the less rebound- not bouncing its just one hop hop when you hit a bump like its too tight- then i'll remove my torsions all together and go to spherical mounts in the rear. Im planning on better coilovers in the rear at some point just cant spend that money right now.

Fishey

I am a bit confused by this but..

I have to say that increasing rear stiffness to stop rubbing will work but it will cause increased oversteer at all shock levels of rebound/compression (A general increase in rear stifness). The only way to balance out this oversteer without rubbing is by increasing the front stiffness and get the balance of the suspension back into proportion.

-Ron

xsboost90

ok listen- the stiffness of the rear end is not souly on the springs- its also combined w/ the stiffness of the coilover shocks. Right now i have them set very stiff- i admit that. I would like to take the stiffness from the coilovers and put them on the spring instead- the reason the shocks are adjusted up so high is to counteract the not stiff enough springs- if i raise the rear spring rate, i can drop the rebound on the shocks to keep from blowing them up and maintain the rear stiffness. Then if it works out ok then i'll be set- if not i'll put some heavier ones up front or drop the rear back down. Im not saying the car is absolutely crazy sideways drifto- im saying it has a tendency to kick out in the rear when you are excellerating from a corner. I would much rather it be slightly more neutral but my main goal here is to take the weight off the shocks.

i'll let you know how things work out - dan.