Duall BB GT30 custom install phase I finished. PHASE II
#61
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ok. So now the Turbo is properly bolted on. Just remember. If you had a different Exhaust housing. This would be a much simpler installation. Pretty straight forward with the adapter I have. Just a little grinding on the bockside of the mount for the larger housing and a slightly longer (short) Allen head bolt on the turbo mount. Done.
this concludes Phase I.
On to Phase II.
Down Pipe.
this concludes Phase I.
On to Phase II.
Down Pipe.
#63
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Down Pipe. I think I should do this before the up pipe since the up pipe has to go under this guy. But, I'm kinda doing them both at the same time. (naughty thoughts are not suppose to be here)
So I have to use this huge tight radius 90 to get it angle down enough to miss the AOS and block. Once again. If this were a V-band or a non extended 4 bolt. There should be plenty of room here.
I bolted the Down pipe flange up and set the 90 in there. I angled it where it needed to be with one hand and kept a sharpie in the other. I marked the very top of the 90 after it had been angled in position. I then tacked it together. It fit nicely. I then fused the inside all the way around since the 4 bolt holes are too close to the outside of the 90. It's a very thick wall, so I will be able to grind it down at each spot so the bolts have some room.
I then added material to the outside for strengthe, but I didn't have to at the bolt holes because it was welded all the way around on the inside. (fused only)
I then had to grind out some material so the bolts would fit in there without hitting the 90. One was way too tight of an angle (Tight radius inside of 90) to fit the bolt in after it was on the car, so I put a slot in it. This is where you screw in the bolt to the turbine first as far as possible and slide it in there. You only get one slot to do this to. This one clearly needed it.
It fit nicely in there. I now have to put the car on the lift to finish the rest of the Downpipe to the exhaust. V-band of course. Tomorrow, along with the up pipe.
So I have to use this huge tight radius 90 to get it angle down enough to miss the AOS and block. Once again. If this were a V-band or a non extended 4 bolt. There should be plenty of room here.
I bolted the Down pipe flange up and set the 90 in there. I angled it where it needed to be with one hand and kept a sharpie in the other. I marked the very top of the 90 after it had been angled in position. I then tacked it together. It fit nicely. I then fused the inside all the way around since the 4 bolt holes are too close to the outside of the 90. It's a very thick wall, so I will be able to grind it down at each spot so the bolts have some room.
I then added material to the outside for strengthe, but I didn't have to at the bolt holes because it was welded all the way around on the inside. (fused only)
I then had to grind out some material so the bolts would fit in there without hitting the 90. One was way too tight of an angle (Tight radius inside of 90) to fit the bolt in after it was on the car, so I put a slot in it. This is where you screw in the bolt to the turbine first as far as possible and slide it in there. You only get one slot to do this to. This one clearly needed it.
It fit nicely in there. I now have to put the car on the lift to finish the rest of the Downpipe to the exhaust. V-band of course. Tomorrow, along with the up pipe.
#66
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In a side note closely related here.
In addition to grinding off the top of the compressor housing. I also did some moving around of the spring bracket for more clearance. First I drew a line where I would need to bend the bracket.
I set it to the side and marked wher I needed to drill and tap the new holes.
T-20 point and M4 x0.7 thread.
Drilled two holes. plenty of meat on the side. Took a little time tapping it. Moved the bracket. put some locktite on the screws. Screwed it in. Works the same. Invisible mod. Now has clearance.
I probably won't use this stock intake for long, but I need to compare any horsepower difference on the Dyno and It's important that It fit.
In addition to grinding off the top of the compressor housing. I also did some moving around of the spring bracket for more clearance. First I drew a line where I would need to bend the bracket.
I set it to the side and marked wher I needed to drill and tap the new holes.
T-20 point and M4 x0.7 thread.
Drilled two holes. plenty of meat on the side. Took a little time tapping it. Moved the bracket. put some locktite on the screws. Screwed it in. Works the same. Invisible mod. Now has clearance.
I probably won't use this stock intake for long, but I need to compare any horsepower difference on the Dyno and It's important that It fit.
#67
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nice work and some good solutusions, the tialsport is quite a lot nimbler than the stock, I will post pictures once my install is on its way but I'm hopeing I won't see the same issues. I think it will be worth the extra $$ just to have less trouble with the install.
#68
Very nice, your motor/turbo mount looks like mine now, all shaved and purdy like, lol. For the return spring I used the rivet method with my first turbos but the latest turbo I just didn't have enough room. I removed the bracket and just made my own attached to somewhere else.
#70
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#71
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If you didn't do the work yourself and paid someone else to do it. It would be worth it's cost 2-3 times over. The labor to do this would be alot more than the extra 3-400bucks for the Tial, V-band, etc.
#72
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The up pipe is pretty much just fab work. It's done. Here are pictures of the work.
Hope you guys enjoyed and are now more armed in a purchasing decision. If I weren't able to fab all this up. A bolt on kit is MORE than an easy decision. but, I can't wait to Dyno this. Next on the list is to finish my intake manifold and get it ready for comparison on the dyno.
I want to get a Vitesse MAF and chip, but I'm kinda Leary. We'll see.
#74
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Very good idea placing studs on the lower turbocharger mount instead of bolts, even on stock set-up it could save time moving the turbo around to align the holes.
I just hope that you are using copper grease/anti-seize instead of silicon here:
I just hope that you are using copper grease/anti-seize instead of silicon here: