TurboTim

KKK housing is not an option at this time.Sorry.

944CS

the water pump can stay on for more than a few seconds, it is temperature dependent. all i am saying is, regardless of whether the turbo is designed to also run without water cooling, having it on there WILL extend the life of the bearings on your expensive investment. 50,000 street miles on a turbo is far from ok. My 142,000 mile 26/6 is still performing great with no shaft play, and once the oil is up to temp, I don't baby the car.
but if people are ok with 50,000 miles out of their turbo's, then good for them. i'm not

CARNEXUS

I seen this turbo at the SEMA show last year and there was lots of hype about it, and on paper the single ceramic ball baring seams to be much more efficient. But I have a couple of friends one with GT30R and another with the GT-K on identical 240SX’s with SR20DETT’s and the Gt30R has a much faster spool. I don’t know why the GTK is so laggy maybe it’s the install or that specific turbo. I’ll be looking forward to your numbers and data. I would love to see the GTK live up to its hype. The design is cutting edge stuff but there have been lots of controversy about it.

Also I see you are keeping it under the intake, a turbo that big will take some time to spool being that far away from the headers no?

nize

this goes back to my earlier comment;
also, i've installed a t3/t4 garrett housing with a 50trim compressor with water cooling by modifying the stock pipes to accommodate the larger housing. if i can do it, so can anyone else. if you're going to mod something, why not mod it right?

nize

tim, this is not true. the turbo water pump continues for a full 30 seconds after shutdown by default. it can also automatically turn on again if the temperature rises enough to warrant it.

a turbo timer keeps the motor running, which actually continues to generate more heat. between the two, the turbo pump is a far better cooling solution than the turbo timer.

DDP

The problem is the oil coking, not the coolant temp. Sure the coolant helps but recirculating the coolant can only do so much when the real problem is the oil.

Nize, why is rigging up some home depot piping to use the stock piping the "right" way to do it and any other way (such as AN fittings/lines) "wrong"?

Seems to me you guys will argue for the sake of arguing, lol.

nize

the oil cokes because the turbo center section gets hot. circulating coolant through the center section prevents it from getting hot, which prevents the oil from coking.

i'm not saying that using the stock piping is 'right', i'm saying that maintaining the factory turbo water cooling is 'right'. if you use AN fittings to accomplish this, more power to you. and i'd love to see pics of such a mod.

edit; btw, my pipe mod is not a home depot job. it uses all porsche stock parts and re-welds the pipes to fit. if someone can figure out a home depot mod that does the same thing, that would be pretty cool too.

edit2; derek, i think you may be confusing my home depot j-boot mod, which is completely different and has since been replaced with the lindsey j-boot hardpipe mod. my turbo coolant pipes are a custom weld job.

Porschefile

The Garrett and HKS T04Z turbos are basically the same thing. HKS uses Garrett components (mainly GT series stuff with their own proprietary housings). I believe it's based off of the Gt4088r, 4094r, or at the least is very similar sized. HKS stuff is really nice, however the Garrett equivalents will typically give you 100% of the same performance for about 50-100% less of the cost. Case and point, Garrett and HKS both marketed a T04R turbo years ago. Turns out they were both literally just T4/T67's and the HKS version was identical (well, maybe a slightly different turbine housing a/r .84 vs .81 but that's about it) yet cost some $700-1000 MORE. I know this for a fact as I used to own a HKS T04R and was pretty steamed when I found out that my $1700 turbo could have been had with Garrett tags for only ~$900-950. Here's the beast on my RB for Sh*ts and giggles (yes low mount cast manifolds suck! ) Link

Wait, I just thought about this post. Are you considering an actual T4/T67/T04Z for your 951? That's overkill for anything below 650-700whp (unless the idea is to create lots of lag!), but a manly-sized turbo nevertheless.

TurboTim

This is not a t3/T4 this is a T4/T4.Big diffrence.And the compressor housing of this TO4S turbo is 7.5" vs. 6.25" on a normal TO4E compressor housing.So please show me how you can get the coolant pipe around a turbo that is 1.25" larger in diameter.

TurboTim

I have not seen a pump run more then about 10-15 seconds after shutdown.Sorry but that is my own experience.How can you say that running the car and allowing oil to circulate through the turbo to cool it is not better then shutting down the car when oil ceases to flow and you basically have water circulating through a housing that doesnt even have oil in it anymore?Please explain.Please explain how keeping the car running after some hard boost runs and then let it idling actually raises the oil temperature. I would like to hear this.Thanks.


Tim

TurboTim

It depends on which GT-k turbo they used to replace the 30R? As far as lag goes, it will not have any more lag then any other same size turbo we put on these cars

nize

1) cut the stock pipe where it fits to the turbo center section.
2) weld on an extension piece of pipe so that the temperature sensor clears the larger housing.

or just use an AN fitting and hoses like you've already mentioned.

nize

perhaps the turbo pump relay/sensor were bad? you can test this by simply disconnecting the connector at the end of the wire where it attaches to the temperature sensor nipple, and grounding it somewhere. it should start the turbo pump up and run for 30 seconds. it's also a convenient way to 'reset' the timer if you want after a hot shutdown.

i'm not saying the oil temperature will rise, i'm saying the turbo center section temperature will not be cooled down as effectively, which is the main source of the oil coking issue. as long as the motor is running, hot exhaust is flowing through the turbo hotside, which transfers heat to the center section where the oil cokes.

shutting the motor off and pumping coolant directly through the center section is more effective at keeping the center section temperature down. this should be obvious.

TurboTim

(1) will not work at all, no way, no how! The only way feasible for something like this would be to have a 3/4" piece of pipe mandrel bent with a super tight radius and even then it would be difficult.

pk951

MY turbo pump runs for more than 1 minute when run hard on and off for a good 5 mintues short temp switch part#fS-158 napa.