jerome951

Well, my driver's side rear wheel bearing is shot (grumbles with even the slightest load and sounds horrible spinning it by hand) so it's time to replace it.

I have most of it disassembled (snap ring is posing a bit of a problem) but when I pulled the hub, the bearing's inner race came with it.

Any suggestions for removing the inner race from the hub without me mutilating it?

Oh, and Loctite red is amazing stuff. I'm 215#, and bouncing on the end of a pipe over a breaker bar 3' from the nut wouldn't budge it. Heat it w/ a torch for a few minutes and it came off w/ only 1 bounce... [Yes Chris, I saw the red marking on the end of the spindle but thought I'd give it a try without heat for the hell of it. ]

speedy951

The way I remove the inner race from the hub was to take a dremel with a cut off wheel and carefully cut a slot perpendicular in the inner race. Don't cut all the way to the hub. Then I took fat standard screwdriver and placed it in the slot I cut and gave it a wack with a hammer and it broke the rest of the inner race. Now you can twist the screw driver to open up the inner race and the race will come off easy. This worked great for me and I did not even scratch the hub surface.

Or take it to a machine shop and they will remove it for you.

shiners780

I realize this doesn't help you if you need it today, but if you can wait for shipping I think this is the tool you need:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsc...spagenameZWD1V

Musche

Buy the tool above. I just did this procedure with a tool very similar to the Arnworx gadget and it is worth the cost just for the elimination of aggravation factor. It will allow you to remove the old bearing as well as properly install the new one. Follow the procedure on his website and it can be done on both sides in about two hours including repacking CV joints. Also check your ABS sensor. When my bearing went bad, the ABS ring/hub tilted and chewed off the tip of the sensor causing the pump to run sporadically and eventually not at all. Also borrowing a 4 ft torque wrench from my pal at a bus garage facilitated getting the nut off and retorquing to proper spec. If you know any 911 Cup car guys they use these for their wheels. Same size nut too (30mm or 1-1/4 in.).

xsboost90

tool is very helpfull. Ive done several as mentioned above by cutting at the race until its almost all the way through. Then what i did was heat it up pretty hot, then drop it in a bucket of cold water. The spot that was cut cracked the rest of the way through and basically slid off.

jerome951

Thanks for the tips.

I've borrowed a good hub/bearing extractor and installer so that isn't the issue. Similar to what's pictured here:
http://www.sirtools.com/B90.htm

Just wondering if there were alternatives to cutting a slot in the race and whacking it off... I'll give that a try.

PorscheDoc

Very easy. Take a bottle of propane or MAP gas (map preferred), and heat the race up good and hot. A couple of well placed hits with a punch and hammer on the edge of the race, and it should fall right off.

Bri Bro

The way I got them out was to heat the hub to 100C then use the puller tool. The aluminum will expand faster then the steel race and it will come right out.

To install the bearing, put it in the freeze then heat the hub before assembly. You can push it into place by hand if you move quickly.

jerome951

Thanks Guys,

Heat alone (propane) didn't work so I had to cut slots in 2 sides. After that a few smacks w/ a Cole chisel and it popped apart.

I did put a small nick in the hub (went too deep w/ the dremel) but it's smooth and shouldn't cause a problem.

hosrom_951

Don't forget to replace that rear hub/bearing nut, it is self locking and designed for single use, and it's cheap.

Zero10

For the inner race on the hub, I used a chisel to get it slightly off of the hub itself, then a 2-jaw puller and a socket to get it off the rest of the way. Just some slight dimples on the back side of the hub, nothing on any of the bearing or mating surfaces.

A bearing puller tool is definitely worth the effort for changing the bearing itself, after spending (literally) 4-5 hours under the car with a hammer and a torch I wish I had bought one.

The snap ring is not an issue at all to get out, a cheapie pair of snap ring pliers was more than enough to get mine.

jerome951

Got it. I'll throw more Loctite Red on there for good measure, too.


Yeah, the puller is a godsend. Literally a couple minutes to pull both the hub and bearing.

One side of my snap ring was stuck. I managed to get the other side out with a pair of needle-nose pliers, then as I worked the ring out around the circumference, it jumped out and scratched my truck.