5speed300

So heres the story. This weekend I pulled off the intake manifold to do a bunch of things. I installed my Lindsey black **** MBC, deleted the cycling valve, replaced the vacuum lines, and did a venturi delete with lindsey's kit. I put everything back together this morning and started up the car.

It starts up alright, but it runs really really rough. It almost seems like one of the cylinders is not firing. I checked the spark plug wires and they all are seated correctly.

I ran a 3/4inch radiator hose from the J-boot to the AOS, unplugged and pulled the cycling valve out, ran the new vacuum lines according to lindsey's diagram, and used my new lindsey hoses to connect the ISV to the manifold and throttle body intercooler pipe.

I dont know what could be causing the car to run this rough. Would a vacuum leak cause it to run really rough? On my boost gauge I was getting about 13-14mm/hg vacuum and the car was cold, from what I've read that seems pretty normal/healthy.

My dad took a look at the car and thinks something is wrong with the timing. Is there any way I could have messed with the timing by just removing the intake manifold and doing the normal vac. lines and venturi delete?

Could running the hoses to my boost controller incorrectly be causing this big a problem?
I'm just trying to rule things out but I really am confused.

Hopefully someone can give me some insight or something else to check for because I really need the car to be running right. Thanks guys

Ski

double check your vac lines

dime1622

Check that the intake manifold is properly seated back down.

5speed300

Ski,
I'm having trouble reading that diagram because it leaves out the brake booster T and shows 4 lines coming off the intake manifold banjo bolt where I only have two.

I have followed the following diagram from lindsey...
The only difference is I have removed all of the GREEN lines related to the CV.
Am I missing something by following this diagram due to my using a boost controller?
Instead of the green lines shown in this diagram, I have a line running from the intercooler banjo bolt into my boost controller, and then a line running out of the boost controller and into the top of the wastegate (I'm running in single port mode)

5speed300

I torqued down the intake manifold, and all the bolt holes related to mounting it down (the two at the rear and the one under the middle) were all lined up.

facboy

i don't think it's causing your problem, but usually the black-**** style MBC is meant for a dual port wastegate in dual port mode. i don't think it'll work with a single port.

bigred1001

Lindsey includes instructions for single port installation. Mine works ok.

5speed300

I could also follow this vacuum line diagram as it shows the venturi delete and single port MBC install. I just dont understand what happens to the T in the brake booster to intake manifold? Its not shown here so what do I do with it?

dime1622

facboy - not necessarily. I run the dial o' doom with my stock WG. It has plugs in it for when not using it for a dual port WG

5speed300

Here are a few pictures so you guys can see my setup.

I think my problem may lie somewhere in the blue circled area, does this setup look right to you?




From looking at diagrams, should the line with the RED line coming off of it be connected to a T from the intake manifold banjo bolt? And in that case should the blue/black thing connect straight to the brake T as the green line shows?

tyro

Whoa, stop a sec.

You removed all of the green hoses? Did you plug the hole in the j-boot (or MAF piping)?

PS. your pics above look fine

5speed300

Yep, plugged the j-boot.

You can see that I followed that vacuum diagram exactly...so I have no idea what the problem is. There are so many different vacuum diagrams out there its confusing which to follow.

Also, I tried the routing I posted above with the green and red lines...there was no difference. The car still ran real rough.

tyro

One other thing: I assume the plug wires are in the right spots? Did you only remove one end, or both?

I've also heard of folks getting the two hoses (AOS and idle stabiliser) backwards on the charge piping/jboot just prior to the throttle body.

Geneqco

I've been havin g problems with my car after doing maintenance and upgrades. I've checked many things... the timing is out... 16 degrees @ 2400 rpm - it should be 35 +/- 3 @ 2500. There seems to be a problem with my knock sensor which I will replace. I'm not sure whether there is also some other issue.

5speed300

I only removed one end of the plug wires. I looked on clarks garage and put the plugs back on the correct cylinder according to the diagram they give. Im going to go check the AOS and ISV real fast, but I am 99% sure I have those done right.

There must be something crimped or not connected thats causing a problem.

When I took the cycling valve out, I just unplugged it and left the connector in there. Should I have done something else with the electrical connector?