tyro

That's fine.

One thing I thought of: did you replace the gaskets on the intake manifold?

Did you remove all the old gaskets and traces of?

Lastly, the gasket on cylinder 1 is "flipped over", or the opposite of the other three.

5speed300

Yep, 4 new intake gaskets and the mating surface was cleaned off thoroughly. Cylinder 1 is also flipped upside down from the rest so that those little notches alighn. Manifold was also torqued to 15ft. lbs. I dont think its leaking from the where the manifold meets the head, I cant hear or feel anything anyway.

Is there any way I can test the system for leaks without having to buy somehting and wait for shipping or spend half the day buildling a tool?

tyro

Cool. Your ISV/AOS hoses are fine?

They say you can wave a propane torch (no flame, just gas ON) or spray starting fluid near the vac connections and listen to the engine. If idle increases, you've found a leak.

Are these original plug wires? I'm curious if perhaps by some chance one has come apart when you removed it.

The fact that you have 13" vacuum at cold idle makes me think it's something else.

It must be something stupidly simple..

5speed300

Well little update, I actually dont have 13" vacuum at idle... more like 10"...sounds a little low? I must have misread the gauge before.

I have my ISV going to the intercooler pipe, and the AOS straight to the j-boot. That is the way its supposed to go correct?

I'm not sure if hte plug wires are original or not. But I checked them by individually pulling each one, then starting the car. Each time I did this the motor ran worse than before. When I put the plug back in, it ran a little better, but still bad. So I think the plug wires are ok.

What are the symptoms of a bad ISV? I havent actually driven the car, just started it up and revved the motor up some. Revving the engine did not change the really rough running which makes me think the ISV is not the problem. If the ISV was faulty, the car would only run rough at idle right?

This damn car is getting on my nerves! I just want it to be fixed!!!

tyro

10" is a little low, depends on altitude. Higher altitude=less vacuum.

I have around 12" at cold idle, 18" hot.

ISV only affects cold idle. Sounds like the hoses are fine.

Here are the vac lines to check:

Under throttle body (connects to thermoswitch on pipe at rear of head, under CV)
on firewall above A/C lines
line to vac reservoir (near battery)

Other thoughts: hoses and clamps tight - no cracks, charge piping connections - tight clamps - no tears, injector seals at manifold, injector connectors - tight, j-boot - clamps tight, no rips - rubber (pliable?).

Ski

check your hose at the throttle body, make sure it's on good and tight. Just for $hits and giggles, with the car idling, hook up the blue/black check valve to the A/C system to the brake hose directly, see what the vac is.

5speed300

Will do in the morning. Although I did try that alternate vac. route method with the check valve direct to the brake booster hose and the fuel vapor purge to a T by the fuel dampener. There was no difference in running condition. I will do it again and check the vac. this time though.

5speed300

Ok I was reading in a few other threads and noticed some people talking about this piece that runs from the AOS to the j-boot. Since I removed the KLR and those three pipes welded together, I just bought a piece of hose and some male-male connectors and ran the hose straight from the AOS to the j-boot. But looking at this, it appears there should be a check valve.

I know I saw someone else running the same setup to the AOS as me, only they used the existing metal pipe which has no check valve either. Would missing that little valve be causing me a problem?

tyro

That valve is a pressure-relief valve used on later turbo cars - won't make a difference.

Post up some pics of your bay, maybe we can spot something..

TRACKIN951

I know it might not be related as know you only have 10 hg of vacuum. But when removing the IM/ TB did you mess with your tps sensor? That could make the car run like crap!

5speed300

I don't think so? All I did was unplug the connector that is attached to the throttle body, and remove the throttle cam when I pulled the intake. I dont think I adjusted anything accidentally but I dont even know to adjust that so its a possibility I guess.

Here are some pictures of my engine bay. I moved most of the vacuum lines up to above the manifold so they are easier to see. I also took a few pictures of individual areas of connection as well.













This is a picture of the male-male connector, and the hose I used to attach the J-boot to the AOS since I removed the metal pipes that dealt with the CV.







boost controller lines into the cabin...



this is where I T'ed the KLR line for my boost guage...primitive I know

5speed300

Also with the intercooler banjo bolt, its way too big for the red hose in lindseys kit to fit over the barbed fitting. Ive looked a few places to find maybe a reducer of some sort that I could use in conjuction with the 3/4in. hose that was hooked up to it before with the boost enhancer... but I've had no luck. That little rubber slip fitting was all I could find. I then inserted some of the plastic line that came with my autometer gauge into the slip fitting, and slipped that inside the red purosil hose that goes to the boost controller. This was intended as temporary until I can find the right reducer as the autometer boost line slips out of the mbc lines with a slight tug even though it is zip tied.

PorscheDoc

Did you remove the ISV from the car when you replaced the hoses? Did you put it back in correctly? There is an arrow on the ISV, that should point towards the hose that goes to the intake. It is possible to put it in backwards.

edit: Oh and I hope your battery box is already fixed. I can see the rust and water trails near your DME. If it isn't get it fixed asap, or you will ruin your dme and klr.

5speed300

Yep already fixed. Whole new battery tray was welded in on top of the old one, those water marks are from before it was fixed.

I didnt ever remove the ISV from the car. The arrow on it is pointing towards the hose that curls up and connects to the intake manifold.

Also, I just tried spraying some carb cleaner on all the vac. connections. The idle is supposed to raise up some to indicate a leak, and nothing happened on any of the connections that I sprayed.

I just took a video so you guys can hear the car. I uploading now so it should be up in about 10 minutes

Ski

with all the zip ties, KLR included, I have a suggestion:

go to the store and get some vac plugs about the size of your lines. Plug the port on the banjo bolt to the boost controller (verify your allen plugs are tight BTW), plug the port to the KLR off the manifold, plug the port off the main brake booster line that you have going to the check valve. Hook up the vac lines to the FPR, dampner, and BOV. Hook up the lined to the TB to thermo valve and thermo valve to black/white diaphram. See if it will run, if it does, then add another system to it. Not sure whose kit you bought, but if from LR, there lines will fit over the barb on the banjo bolt, a little silicone spray works well.

You wires on your distributor are:
42
31
and your engine from front to back 1 2 3 4? Just checking. Someone recently hooked up their spark plug wires with the numbers on the cam tower from front to back.