nize

thanks for the tip. i'm definitely going to rebuild this turbo, as i would like to sell it to recoup some costs. i'm also considering zero-clearancing the compressor if that's possible. does anyone have experience with zc-turbos ?

nize

i'm curious, is there such a thing as a k27/8 ? how much of an improvement is the k27/6 over the k26/6 ?

nize

okay now i'm worried, as i've found the motor has apparantly hydro-locked due to the cylinders being filled with oil. however, this occurred after shutdown, or around 500rpm, when i first noticed the motor starting to stall.

i'm wondering if anyone might be able to tell me wether i should be worried about the rods or not. i did try to start it twice after it was hydro-locked, each time the starter would 'click' but not turn which made me suspect what was going on.

is the starter motor on the 951 strong enough to damage the rods if the pistons are hydro-locked? or would the starter break before rod damage?

here are some pics of the intake ports;

KuHL 951

Have you tried turning it over with the plugs removed? Hint: Don't look at the holes as a friend cranks it.

nize

what would turning it over with plugs removed prove? that the motor turns? i'm pretty sure it turns. the bigger concern is that if there is damage, i'm afraid that turning it over will cause more damage at this point.

i'm working on removing the head. i know for sure that the headgasket is blown, as oil has started seeping out the sides.

i'm just wondering if i should be thinking about taking the bottom of the motor apart as well, or if i would be okay with just replacing the headgasket and turbo.

KuHL 951

Well if the motor turns now it's not hydro-locked like you suspect. I doubt if the starter has enough torque to twist a rod. You can always just pull the plugs and turn it with a wrench at the crank pulley. If you tweaked a rod you will know it after turning the crank through a few 360 deg. cycles.The worst damage that I would suspect from heavy oil in the cylinders is a ruined O2 sensor and cat. I may be wrong but I can't see any serious damage occurring other than the miserable mess you will have to clean up.

nize

perhaps i'm misunderstanding hydro-lock situations. if oil is poured down the intake and completely fills the cylinder when the intake valve opens, the piston will then try to compress all that oil on the compression stroke, and will not be able to, i thought this was what a hydro-lock situation is.

removing the spark plugs will alleviate the 'lock' so the motor will be able to turn again, but the damage (if any) would have already been done.

am i missing something?

KuHL 951

Usually damage from hydroloc is from a catastrophic HG failure filling the cylinder very rapidly with water or from heat expansion in the cooling system after shutdown. The chances of a cylinder filling with oil from a blown turbo seal is very remote as oil can only enter when the engine is running. It would have to fill incredibly fast from a source not even remotely close to the intake valve. I doubt the oil supply to the turbo could ever provide enough volume to do it beween strokes. So again, what damage could have been done other than fouling the entire intake/exhaust track? If the engine starting acting up when the turbo seal failed it was probably because the plugs quit firing very quickly under those Exxon Valdez conditions.

lleroyb

Peter,

You should go with the Vitesse Stage 2, he may still have one at the old price. That would turn your car into a monster. I too doubt the starter develops enough torque to bend a rod.

Lou

Mighty Shilling

if it were me, I'd check for hydro lock when you have the head off.. that too scares me. it may have started stalling out at low RPM from when oil was entering the cylinders and fouling the spark plugs...

ibkevin

What does the turbo's drain line look like?

lleroyb

I wonder if oil ruined the starter solenoid and that is why it just clicks. I like the idea of pulling the plugs with a towel over the plug holes and see if it turns over. That is what we did to clear the cylinders on the Mudtang you saw at my house the other day. We even used the starter to drive it in the garage with the plugs out, no sweat.

Lou

spammajamma

must after 150,000 mile or so, I've seen cars listed that had rebuilds at 60,000 miles or so..I guess I got the wrong impression

nize

my original one-owner 88 car was never rebuilt, and ran like new up to +180k miles over 17 years.

if a 951 motor had to be rebuilt after 60k miles, or even 150k miles, that tells me the owner isn't taking proper care of the car, or is modding the car without doing their homework.

nize

turbo drain line for what, the oil or the coolant? they look normal to me. what am i looking for?