front section of turbo verses S2
03-29-2007, 09:55 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
front section of turbo verses S2
From looking at PET I am of the understanding that the front section (ie the chassis metal infront of the shock towers) is the same between the 944 turbo and 944 S2. I know the panels are the same, but just wanted to double check on the internals.
Anyone able to confirm this for me?
Anyone able to confirm this for me?
03-30-2007, 12:24 AM
#2
Race Car
Not 100% certain what you're asking....?
There's a metal part that includes the doubler of the front strut tower called the "wheel housing".
I'm near certain that they're the same.
968 wheel housing is different (all one piece) by the way that the fender alignment top bolt flange angles inwards for the angled fenders/hood.
Maybe it'd be better if you explain what it is you're trying to do....?
T
There's a metal part that includes the doubler of the front strut tower called the "wheel housing".
I'm near certain that they're the same.
968 wheel housing is different (all one piece) by the way that the fender alignment top bolt flange angles inwards for the angled fenders/hood.
Maybe it'd be better if you explain what it is you're trying to do....?
T
03-30-2007, 12:50 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm getting together parts for repair of the front of my 944T (see sig).
Some of the metal in the front section is pretty deformed so crash repair guys want a front section to scavange from when straightening mine. There's an s2 body that I have found at a wreckers that I can buy the front section.
So yeah just wanted to make sure that its compatible.
Some of the metal in the front section is pretty deformed so crash repair guys want a front section to scavange from when straightening mine. There's an s2 body that I have found at a wreckers that I can buy the front section.
So yeah just wanted to make sure that its compatible.
03-30-2007, 12:59 AM
#5
Race Car
Yes....it'll work.
What's important to know depending on how far back you're having to graft in, is that what looks like a box section of the frame apron when it leaves the wheel housing (looking from under the hood) leading up to the frontal metal cossmember (Where bumper shocks attach) - this box frame apron actually turns into a "C" channel with the open part facing the metal wheel house. It's the metal wheel housing that actually continues to make this apron a complete box shape as it joins up under the shock tower where your heat insulation is.
It's spot welded there with a 90 degree lip that you can drill to "open it up"....
If you need to cut that far back to get enough of the S2 body for your turbo repair, then plan on bringing a jack to unbolt the aluminum engine crossmember beacuse it'll be in your way to make a vertical cut there.
Usually the damage of the apron won't go back farther than where the thread for the crossmember bolts attach so you'd be wise to not graft farter back than that.
If the engine's still in the S2.........well....., good luck....
T
What's important to know depending on how far back you're having to graft in, is that what looks like a box section of the frame apron when it leaves the wheel housing (looking from under the hood) leading up to the frontal metal cossmember (Where bumper shocks attach) - this box frame apron actually turns into a "C" channel with the open part facing the metal wheel house. It's the metal wheel housing that actually continues to make this apron a complete box shape as it joins up under the shock tower where your heat insulation is.
It's spot welded there with a 90 degree lip that you can drill to "open it up"....
If you need to cut that far back to get enough of the S2 body for your turbo repair, then plan on bringing a jack to unbolt the aluminum engine crossmember beacuse it'll be in your way to make a vertical cut there.
Usually the damage of the apron won't go back farther than where the thread for the crossmember bolts attach so you'd be wise to not graft farter back than that.
If the engine's still in the S2.........well....., good luck....
T
03-30-2007, 01:10 AM
#7
Race Car
I'm fixing a similar wreck right now Hally, may even have pics of the dismantle.
Is it one side of the box shaped apron that's kinked....?
If so, I'd cut back the S2 to the crossmember bolts (maybe between the two) as the repair will go easier with a point of reference.
Take the frontal crossmember (metal par that the bumper shocks bolt to) and hack the other side just south of the upper crossmember that the nose panel phillips screws bolt to...
Usually what you'll want to do is drill out the spot welds to attach nicely to your turbo chassis but the welding is inconsistent and nastly looking (hard to transfer and match) where they attached the nose panel crossmember.
This way, whoever is doing the grafting will have enough material to make a strategic plan....
If I find some useful pics, I'll bump this thread and leave you my email but I'm off to Road Atlanta for the weekend....
T
Is it one side of the box shaped apron that's kinked....?
If so, I'd cut back the S2 to the crossmember bolts (maybe between the two) as the repair will go easier with a point of reference.
Take the frontal crossmember (metal par that the bumper shocks bolt to) and hack the other side just south of the upper crossmember that the nose panel phillips screws bolt to...
Usually what you'll want to do is drill out the spot welds to attach nicely to your turbo chassis but the welding is inconsistent and nastly looking (hard to transfer and match) where they attached the nose panel crossmember.
This way, whoever is doing the grafting will have enough material to make a strategic plan....
If I find some useful pics, I'll bump this thread and leave you my email but I'm off to Road Atlanta for the weekend....
T
Trending Topics
03-30-2007, 01:15 AM
#8
Race Car
Whoops, btw - how much do they want for the parts....?
That wheel housing is only about $400-500 even without a discount....
You can also get the uprights alongside the radiator separately for $100-200 each.
Technically, they're called right and left "separator"...
Funny lingo....must be the translation from German as the "batwing" is called an "embellisher"....lol
I'm not sure but I think you can only get the frame apron as a complete "frontal section" which is the firewall forward and it lists for $8600....yes....eighty-six hundred according to insurance pricing.
T
That wheel housing is only about $400-500 even without a discount....
You can also get the uprights alongside the radiator separately for $100-200 each.
Technically, they're called right and left "separator"...
Funny lingo....must be the translation from German as the "batwing" is called an "embellisher"....lol
I'm not sure but I think you can only get the frame apron as a complete "frontal section" which is the firewall forward and it lists for $8600....yes....eighty-six hundred according to insurance pricing.
T
03-30-2007, 01:27 AM
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
$AUD1400 for as much of the chassis as I need. Its in perfect shape too.
I'm just coordinating & funding the supply of parts from the wreckers to the repair shop, they are doing the cutting etc. I'm sticking to just the mechanicals. The shop repairs cars for the 944 challange series down here, so they have plenty of experience with the 944 and seem to be know exactly what they want.
Be good to see your photos never the less.
cheers,
Gregor
I'm just coordinating & funding the supply of parts from the wreckers to the repair shop, they are doing the cutting etc. I'm sticking to just the mechanicals. The shop repairs cars for the 944 challange series down here, so they have plenty of experience with the 944 and seem to be know exactly what they want.
Be good to see your photos never the less.
cheers,
Gregor
03-30-2007, 01:36 AM
#10
Race Car
Sounds well under control then......what I'd do is take awy the whole chassis then, offer the scraps up to the repair shop for a pssoible discount sice they fix other 944 cars from time to time, it's bound to be worth something to them....?
T
T