MC 968CS

Hey Pat....if you end up with lowly MO30 parts left over...email me! Thanks mate. I am really looking forward to seeing you run soon!
MAC

333pg333

You're officially the first in the queue Mark!
I've got a lot of stuff to sell. Are you interested in a data logger by any chance?

ehall

okay Patrick WTF are you talking about?
How many millions of dollars does it cost to
1. ship your crap or
2. Get Australian citizenship?


Mostly number 2?

marc a

I looked at those calipers before doing my upgrade and found that the pads are slightly different than the GT3 pads and therefore you can not get race compounds. Things might have changed since last year, but that what I found.

marc
________________________
'00 Audi TT
'99 996 (Wife's ride)
'86 951 LS1 (C-2)
'77 911 3.2 (C-1) Gone but not forgotten.
3.2 Conversion and 915 Rebuild Home Page
The 958 Conversion
958 Track Video
PCA National Registry of Instructors

333pg333

I've got a heap of stuff, just not all in one pile. I'm thinking about how to best sell it. Yes, yes, I know...need to actually put a list together and take pics etc.
Clearly it would be best to sell it locally, but I will post it up here in the not too distant future. Might have to come to an arrangement with someone over your side.

Yes, you're right Mark. That's another thing I forgot about too. For someone who wants some bling for the street, running the Cayenne calipers and rotors is a cheaper way of doing things. Not sure one what adapters you'd need though?

mikey_audiogeek

Good call.

Cheers,
Mike

TonyG

You don't have to. If you make your own A arms, you can set the distance between the end of the arm and the spindle center line so that you get your ride height you want with the A arm level.

TonyG

BoostBuggy

You could simply change the 968 M030 spindles to the 968 standard spindle. As it sounds like you have the 19 mm ball joint, all you would have to do would be to have the 968 standard spindles michined out to accet the larger ball joint pin. That simple.

To the best of my knowledge/understanding, even if you are running the Karl's A Arms they still are designed to basically be a plug-n-play for the OE A arm. Therefore changing spindles should really have absolutely no impact on anything else, other than possibly the ball joint pin diameter as previously mentioned.

Michael

dand86951

Pat, what were those hats made for? With the standard spindles you will be using an adapter bloc. Not the greatest but I don't have any worries about strength, just a bit more unsprung weight. With the non M030 adapter you have a lot of flexibility on where the caliper bolt holes go. You can just add the necessary width to make things fit.

As TonyG said the non M030 spindles can be bored and threaded to accept Racers Edge ball joints. Karl has a write up on that that your machine shop can use.

BoostBuggy

Hats are typically made of 6061 T6 Aluminum. In some cases on high end race cars (read: ALMS P1 class, IndyCar, etc) you will find 7075 Aluminum.

It's not only the non M030 spindles that can be bored out to accept the Racer's Edge 19 mm ball joints (alsot available from Travis @ Rennbay) but the M030 spindles as well.

I wouldn't be too concerned about the adapter block. There are pro race cars that use the adapter block as the spindles they use (and have used for many many years) are a axial mount. With the adapter you can literally use any radial mount brake caliper you would like; two piece or monobloc, Wilwood, Brembo, Stoptech, Alcon, AP, Endless (and the list goes on....)

As to re-using the hats, it very possible you could re-use your hats with the monoblocs. The calipers don't specifically determine the hat. It's entirely possible a slight adjustment in the adapter could place the monobloc in the proper position to allow the continued use of your old hats. But there is much more to this than simply that. Other issues that would affect the ability to re-use the old hats could be the necessary depth/height of the new annulus (tyically the Porsche monobloc calipers use pad that require a VERY deep/tall annulus), the diameter of the rotor you will need for the monobloc set up, etc.

A solution to many of these issues I haven't seen referrenced here at all is having rotors/hats custom made. Coleman machine will make just about any size rotor you want in any configuration you want (slotted, drilled, heat treated, other treatments) Coleman will also make Aluminum hats to match their or anyone else's rotors. And I think you'd be surprised at the costs. I made an adapter back in 2002 to put the GT3 calipers on a 968 with the standard spindles (i.e. using an adapter) While I know prices have increased a bit since then, I recall getting Coleman slotted rotors in 350 x 34 mm with double heat treatment for approximately $150 each (if memory serves me correctly.... might even had been a little less)

Frankly I have difficulty understand why one would need to adapt a set of 996 uprights to the 951/968. Seems like A LOT of extra and unneeded cost but possibly Tony knows something I'm not getting.... (No offense meant, Tony) You can do literallly anything you want via the stock configuration.

Michael

BoostBuggy

BTW I did have a CAD drawing of the adapter for the GT3 calipers on a 951/968. If I can find it I will be happy to post it and you can make your own adapters..... Somewhere I have drawings for hats, adapters, etc for a doing BBKs on a number of vehicles (Porsche BMW 3 series, Mustang, old Camaro/Firebird)

Michael

TonyG

No offense taken.

The reason for the 996 uprights is that you can bolt on without adapters... 996 GT3 calipers on a 14" rotor. Or you can use the factory Porsche adapter and run a 15" rotor... and it be all Porsche (for what that's worth...).

The other reasons are:

1. Much larger wheel bearing. This is an issue running big brakes with big (like 315) sticky slicks on a very fast car.

2. Geometry. This can be broken down into several elements of improvements, such as a improved scrub radius, the correct roll center, adjustable track (on multiple axis), improved bump toe control, etc...



The down side is that you have to run a big tie rod drop extension. And I'm not sure I'm totally comfortable with that... however, the fastest 944's ever built ran 996 uprights.... and that same problem was dealt with. Go figure...


TonyG

968ls1

Check out the 951 for sale at the top of this forum topic it has 996 uprights with a custom control arm. Tony is right the 996 upright has much better/larger bearings and brakes are now a factory bolt on. I am not crazy about a rod end being used as the ball joint but apparently it works.

xschop

What is the castor degree and lateral strut degree of that upright?

TonyG

This is not how I'm going to do it. There are several issues I have with that design.... most namely the different angles of the A arm relative to the tie rod. That thing will toe out under braking. Then there's the use of a heim joint as a ball joint... with a spacer between the A arm and upright (in attempt to get the A arm angle correct)... with a bolt holding it all together.


I'm thinking along slightly different lines...


TonyG