Buckaroo Banzi

Completing a complete bottom end re-build.

With the oil pan torqued down (7lbs) the #4 connecting rod nut hits the oil sump insert.

Is this an indication the crankshaft or piston was incorrectly installed?

The crank turns smooth no binding without the oil pan.
All the numbers for the connecting rods are facing in the same direction
New rings brearings new pan gasket.
Torqued to ARP and factory specs.

special tool

You sure its tthe baffle???

Buckaroo Banzi

Pretty sure? there is notihng else it could hit on?
I also see marks on the black plastic like material I have stated to trim it down
and it has made a differance...I am going to keep triming and see what happens.

thanks

Frank@Work

Is your car stock?

(I was told) a 951 baffle won't work with a S2 crank.

Ski

Is this a 2.5 or 3.0 crank? What rods are you using and you installed ARP rod bolts?

Buckaroo Banzi

Crank is stock 2.5, rod bolts are stock new ribbed rod nuts.
I checked the height compared to the other connecting rods and the threads
looked fine.
You can see a shiny spot on the rod nut 3-5mm where it's it htting..
I am going to remove #4 piston and re-install just to make sure all the bearings are installed correctly.

I was thinking the oil pan should it fit flush with the block without the rubber gasket ?

When I fit the oil pan with the rubber gasket it needs to be wiggled adjusted to
fit flush with the rubber gasket is this normal?

special tool

HHHHHMMMMMMM

-Lets have a picture of the baffle that is in your oilpan......................................

Buckaroo Banzi

As requested,
Hoping you can make out the shiney spot on the rod nut and the area I have sanded on the baffel.

special tool

Are you SUUUUUUUUURE it is not hitting the drrain tube????
This can be bent by someone who does not know how to correctly remove the pan (force).

Buckaroo Banzi

It may have been FORCED I don't recall....

I have decided to install the oil pan and use my bore scope to pin point the area it's hitting on...

Buckaroo Banzi

For the 143 of you who are waiting with bated breath for the outcome of my rod nut rubbing I have good news to report.

1. It was NOT the oil pan baffel....
2. It was Not the oil return pipe
3. It WAS the POS Ishihara-Johnson Crank Scraper

More time and money wasted on another 944 vendor with a crappy product...


Thank you to all who helped it was very much appreciated

shortyboy

crank-scrappers should be test fitted many times before being put in.i had to file down and test fit mine like 15 times.

Buckaroo Banzi

That is exactly what I did more than 15 times and many many hours....
What I consider is a crap is when you spend thos many many hours fiting and filing you spin the crank countless times when your supposed to be finshed and ONLY when you torque to spec does it rub...It makes no sense what so ever.

If it was designed correctly it should not have required so much labor to install.
Or should it have to be installed and re-installed countless times to fit properly.

I still am perplexed and betwixed as to why the rod only rubs when the pan is torqued to 7 llbs ??????...That is not my expectation for any well designed product.

special tool

So basically what I am gathering here is that you will not be recommending this produt to other Rennlisters?

Chris White

For crank scrapers to work well they need to be very close tolerance (clearance). With all the various stock parts (forged vs cast rods) there will be some clearancing work needed.

Not to sound too condescending – but if you are building a performance engine you should expect to ‘blueprint’ things like this. If you want a true ‘fitted’ scraper you would be paying somebody to do exactly what you just did – not the under $100 price of the IJ scraper.

“What I consider is a crap is when you spend thos many many hours fiting and filing you spin the crank countless times when your supposed to be finshed and ONLY when you torque to spec does it rub...It makes no sense what so ever.”

So you fitted the scraper without torquing the girdle/scraper nuts…I guess you don’t understand some of the basics of engine building. Either that or you are saying that it only rubs when the pan is torqued to spec – I do not believe that the 7lb of oil pan bolt torque will move the crank scraper. Where is it hitting now? I will believe that the torqued oil pan will move a bent oil pick up.

So – before you go bashing a vendor please figure out what you are doing wrong. I don’t think you have figured it out yet...........

Chris White