JBrown

I am having serious problems someone help me. I install my new Greddy profec b electronc boost controller and lindsey waste gate. I also have vitesse MAF. After i was done i had the impeller nut come off the cold side of my new K27/6. wasted the turbo. Got the replacement and put it in, took it for a break in ride (no boost or very little). When i got back, i took off the pipe going to the turbo to ck and make sure this turbo is ok and this nut was starting to come off. Thank god i caught it before i did any damage. So now i have to take the whole thing apart again and tighted up the nut. Something is causing this. I dont believe i got two bad turbos ( not with the same problem). Can anyone tell me how they have there lines ran from there lindsey racing wastegate to the solinod of the boost controller. I must have something wrong. The boost controller has 3 ports. One callled com, one called nc and one called no.I no you only use two of them. The waste gate has 2 ports. PLEASE someone with this set up tell me how your lines are ran. I do not want to waste another turbo. The car idles find and runs find. I have all the setting on the EBC to the lowest setting right now. All my vacuum lines are 100%. I checked them about 200 times. My problem has to be between my wastegate and the EBC solinod. The car seems to spool to early and sounds like i have a blow off valve. Something is making the turbo spool down very fast or making it start to turn the wrong way when i let off the gas pedal. ANY ONE WHO HAS THIS SET UP PLEASE TAKE A PEEK AT YOUR CAR AND LET ME KNOW. THANK YOU .

gregeast

How much boost are you seeing with your current set-up? Unless you're way overboosting I doubt that the ebc/wastegate is the problem. Have you checked your BOV (diverter valve)? If the BOV is not working right then the compressor blades will see a shock from the compressed column of air coming to an abrupt stop between the compressor and the throttle body when the throttle plate snaps shut. This causes the compressor blades to slow down VERY quickly.

Here's a link to a thread showing how to connect the Greddy to a Tial, it is my understanding that the hose connection on the LR WG would be opposite of this, meaning that the line from the solenoid goes to the side of the LR WG and the pressure line from the boost pipe goes to the top.

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...referrerid=204

BTW, I had the same thing happen to my K27/6, who did your conversion?

333pg333

I sincerely hope you find out what's wrong with your car and it's an easy fix. Then after that get someone to help with grammer. I know it's being pedantic, or maybe it's just me. Maybe I'm getting old and don't recognise the new organic internet lingo?

gregeast

333:

While J is proofreading his grammar, I respectfully suggest that you check your spelling...

JBrown

Thanks gregeast. 333pg333 sorry for the grammer. I did not no i was on an grammer forum. Sometimes i type to fast and have a bad habit of not checking my post. Thanks for nothing.

JBrown

Gregeast i an mot overboosting by the way. I will check the BOV.

gregeast

Two things to check on the BOV:

1. Suck on the vacuum nipple on the top. If it holds vacuum (you can't breathe through it) then it's likely ok. If you get air passing through then you probably just found your problem.

2. Check the orientation of the valve itself. Assuming it's a stock valve, the longer pipe on the BOV should be connected into the boost pipe just in front of the throttle body. I think there's an arrow embossed on the BOV showing direction of air flow. You want the flow to be from in front of the throttle body to the J-pipe.

If it makes you feel any better, I went throught this twice as well. First time the nut came off and fragged the compressor blades. After sending it back to get it repaired, the seals let go on the shaft, probably as a result of the problems from the first time unbalancing (or maybe bending) things. My vendor was very good about standing behind it, he ended up replacing with a different cold side the last time and it's been 2+ months now with no issues other than that big grin on my face when I stand on it .

promax_motorsport

Hi,

ProMAX Motorsport have installed the Greddy on a number of cars.

[1] You need to control the side port on the LR Dual Port Wastegate (not the top port).
[2] The greddy must be venting through the solenoid as it works differently to a regulator (MBC type). Hence, remove the plastic bung.
[3] Set the boost level with the ****. Adjust gain and start boost to ensure you achieve the characteristics you need.

If you need a photo of an install, I can get you one on Monday.

Regards,
Andrew
www.promaxmotorsport.com

JBrown

Guys thanks for the help. I am going t take the car apart monday and fix the turbo. Tuesday i will put it back together. I will let you know who it goes.
Greg i took your advise and got the turbo from turbo performance. Bob has been very nice about the situation. Andrew i would love a pic if you dont mind.

JBrown

Man i am terrible at typing. I am going to take the car apart monday. I will let you know how it goes. I am correcting my spelling so no one yells at me.

promax_motorsport

I'll get that for you tomorrow. I'll upload it here.

Regards,
Andrew
www.promaxmotorsport.com

JBrown

Gregeast i started takeing everthing apart to fix the turbo. While i was there i checked the BOV valve. I have two. The stock one and a chrome one(cheap) that i got on e-bay. I put the chrome one on about 2 weeks before i did the upgrade on my turbo. It seemed to work fine on the stock turbo. When i suck on the nipple of my stock one i can suck air through it but cannot push air into it. It does not open the valve though. I can continue to suck air through it. The chrome one when i suck on it opens up the valve. If i hold the suction on the nipple it will slowly go down. So what do you think. If you think i need a new one just let me know. If you can make a recommendation on what kind to. Thanks again for all the help.

docwyte

Why do you have two bpv's? You only need one. Also, that nut on the turbo needs to be torqued to a specific torque spec. You can't just tighten it down. I'd very seriously doubt this has anything to do with your wastegate or ebc, sounds like your turbo rebuilder didn't properly torque this nut down.

JBrown

I have two but I am only using one. I have an extra.

gregeast

Doc is right, it's going to be critical to get the nut both properly torqued and Loc-tited. Have you talked to Bob at Turbo Performance about this most recent issue? Does he think you can fix it yourself? If not, you're probably going to have to send it back to them.

Sounds like the ebay BOV is working ok so this may not be the source of the problem. That said, if it were me I'd probably at least get a new stock BOV, there's a newer version from the 993 turbo that Paragon and others sell for ~$45 that is more robust and that's what I'm running. Click Here You'll get lots of opinions on who makes the best BOV, my only experience is with the stock 993 version, which, so far at least, has worked fine. If I were going to buy aftermarket I'd go with the Forge, just based on reading numerous threads. There a big differential in price though between stock and the Forge.

I'd recommend asking Bob what all he did when he rebuilt the turbo the second time, like I mentioned they didn't do as thorough a job as they should have when they did mine and my seals ended up letting go. While the whole thing was very frustrating, Turbo Performance was good to deal with and Bob stood behind it both times, there was never any question about who was paying for the rebuilds.

HTH