Clutch replacement questions
#1
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Hey all..
Due to my clutch going south in the fall im planning on replacing it after the new year. I have read the procedure from Clarks page but Im wondering what the best way to go about it is. Fortunately I have access to a lift. It is the kind that you drive up on for doing front end alignments. Has anyone used this kind of lift for replacing clutches? Seeing as though all the wheels are on the lift I feel that it would interfere with all the work that has to be done to the rear end. I have also thought of pulling the engine and replacing the clutch that way. Does anyone have a preferred method for my situation???
Thanks
TED
Due to my clutch going south in the fall im planning on replacing it after the new year. I have read the procedure from Clarks page but Im wondering what the best way to go about it is. Fortunately I have access to a lift. It is the kind that you drive up on for doing front end alignments. Has anyone used this kind of lift for replacing clutches? Seeing as though all the wheels are on the lift I feel that it would interfere with all the work that has to be done to the rear end. I have also thought of pulling the engine and replacing the clutch that way. Does anyone have a preferred method for my situation???
Thanks
TED
#2
Drifting
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I guess preference would be a 4-arm lift to solve the interference issue; however, I did mine in a garage with a pit under the car. Really didn't cause a problem. The tranny, shafts, exhaust, etc. that have to come off really shouldn't be blocked by a drive-on lift.
#3
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I've done three clutches in a 2 car garage while the car was on jackstands. What I would recommend is removing the shifter, and dropping the transaxel and half shafts while the car is low, and then raise the lift so you can get to the exhaust, torque tube and bell housing.
To get the torque tube out of the way you need to remove the bolts holding the torque tube to the bell housing, and then lift and rotate the torque tube 180 degrees. This will allow the safety ears (These "ears" are welded to the torque tube to prevent drive train movement during a collision) to clear the torsion bar tube so you can move the torque to aft.
Before you start, go to your local hardware store and get the longest bolt you can find that will thread into the clutch pivot pin. If memory serves it is a 13mm bolt with an 8mm shaft with a 1.25 thread, but check this first. To get the pivot pin out I thread a nut onto the bolt, add a suitable washer, put a deep socket over the end of the pin, and then I thread the long bolt into the end of the pin. After the small locking bolt is removed I use the nut to "jack" out the pin, sort of like using a bearing puller.
You made need to use mass quantities of PB Blast to break rust, so get plenty. If you have the time, soak any rusty nuts/bolts overnight.
This would also be a good time to clean, inspect and re-pack the CV joints.
To get the torque tube out of the way you need to remove the bolts holding the torque tube to the bell housing, and then lift and rotate the torque tube 180 degrees. This will allow the safety ears (These "ears" are welded to the torque tube to prevent drive train movement during a collision) to clear the torsion bar tube so you can move the torque to aft.
Before you start, go to your local hardware store and get the longest bolt you can find that will thread into the clutch pivot pin. If memory serves it is a 13mm bolt with an 8mm shaft with a 1.25 thread, but check this first. To get the pivot pin out I thread a nut onto the bolt, add a suitable washer, put a deep socket over the end of the pin, and then I thread the long bolt into the end of the pin. After the small locking bolt is removed I use the nut to "jack" out the pin, sort of like using a bearing puller.
You made need to use mass quantities of PB Blast to break rust, so get plenty. If you have the time, soak any rusty nuts/bolts overnight.
This would also be a good time to clean, inspect and re-pack the CV joints.
#4
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OK look.............. first you need to book a flight to Jerusalem where you need to write your prayer.....something like.....lord, allah, God....whatever your religious persuasion......please give me the strength , patience, fortitude, luck, wisdom, tools...etc. etc.....to complete my upcoming clutch job.......on a piece of paper and then place this paper into a hole, crack, etc. in the Wailing Wall. After which your prayer may or may not be answered (probably depending on whether you believe or do not believe in this)......then quickly fly over to Fatima , Portugal where you must climb the hill to where the Virgin Mary was sighted by 3 young girls.....at which such place it is said you can pray and such prayer may or may not be answered (probably depending on whether you believe or do not believe in this)......your prayer should be similar to the prayer you wrote on the paper in Jerusalem in order not to confuse the powers that be. After returning from said journey you should seek out a Catholic priest to perform the Rite of Exorcism on your car......just in case..........because you never really know.......and trust me your gonna wanna have all the bases covered here........ After this get a bible, crucifix, dradle, Koran, book of mormon, or other such religious relic (whatever your religious persuasion) and say 10 Hail Marys or whatever prayer you wish so long as you say it 10 times. After this light a candle and meditate on the upcoming major mechanical event......then bathe yourself and the car in the same water so as to remove any bad vibes.....bad mojo...or any other such negativity. Once this is completed you should print out Clarkes and follow what Charlotte944 said.
GOOD LUCK
GOOD LUCK
#5
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Thanks for the recommendations guys. If I was religious I would take Andial's advise. Im going to be doing it with 2 other guys that do tons of repairs and rebuilding of thier own cars/trucks so I think we will be ok.
Ill have printouts from clarks, small bags for parts and
on ice. All necasary tools and parts on hand. I hope to do it in one weekend with 3 guys..... I hope
So replacing the clutch by pulling the tranny/torque tube is the preferred method I guess. Im sure Ill be posting problems along the way
Ill have printouts from clarks, small bags for parts and
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So replacing the clutch by pulling the tranny/torque tube is the preferred method I guess. Im sure Ill be posting problems along the way
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Clark's writeup is almost down to the T. There may be a small step here or there that you might have to do, but you can figure it out. You will be fine on the drive on lift, that will make things much easier than jackstands which really sucks. It's not a bad job if the car is on a lift and you have some air tools.
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I'm looking at a clutch job this winter as well -- but Jerusalem is a little far for me. Can I sacrifice a goat instead?
How much clearance did you have -- and how much more did you wish you had?
Originally Posted by Charlotte944
I've done three clutches in a 2 car garage while the car was on jackstands.
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#8
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Originally Posted by josephsc
I'm looking at a clutch job this winter as well -- but Jerusalem is a little far for me. Can I sacrifice a goat instead?
#9
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Originally Posted by Teddy952
Im sure Ill be posting problems along the way ![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
Anyway I just got my car back today with the completed clutch job and I'm going out for a spin in minute.
BTW what clutch are you putting in? I put in a Cup Clutch...a popular choice but there are many others.
Oh....even if your not religious you must at least believe in the Porsche gods.....right??.......regardless you should at least make a small sacrifice to them so as to apease them and keep them smiling upon you. Perhaps a proper sacrafice of a riced civic may do??