mtnman82

I searched and read for a while now but have found nothing to help .....

I've taken 8 nuts off where the header/head meet (two per exhaust port - one on each side), and taken 6 nuts/bolts off where the headers meet the crossover pipe. Nothing wants to budge or move. Also, looking at the clearance between the headers and the wheel well, it doesn't look like tehre will be enough space to clear the studs when trying to take the header off.

Any tips/tricks/suggestions would be appreciated.

I'm trying to take the header off for easier access to the oil cooler housing, which I am going to re-seal. Thanks!

kos_007

You need to remove the studs which hold the headers to the engine. It is done by using 2 nuts, locking them on the stud and and turning the inner nut off. Then probably you will need to tilt the engine to the left to obtain adequate clearance. I had to loosen the right engine mount to do that.Good luck!

mtnman82

OMG - are you serious? Now i see why people just yank the whole engine and do all of this. Any other advice? Anyone? Anyone?

Thanks for the info, kos (as painful as it was)!

phils87951

Ahh i would be careful with trying to remove the studs, if you break one the head comes off.
what I sugest is that you undolt the engine mount on that side. Unbolt it from the bracket from the engine to the top of the engine mount and then use a bloc of wood on your jack and GENTLY lift that side of the engine just enough to get the headers off.

DO not force the bottom of the pan as it can easily be damaged, but it will hold the weight of the engine if the force is spread to more than the typcal jack head. a 6x6 piece pf plywood should do.

What are you trying to do anyways?
If you re doing the head gasket, take the header off while its attached to the head.

ShApE

hmmm what have u tried to break it loose? i would use a rubber mallot and just beat on them for a lil bit and see if it helps at all. also the headers pull towards the middle, so try spreading them apart and pulling.

Eyal 951

I'm for sure replacing the brand new studs i put in with freakin bolts. those studs are so stupid.
Eyal

mtnman82

Thanks phil - that's always one of my worries when trying to remove a stud: breakage. I'm just trying to re-seal the oil cooler housing. I was contemplating taking the head off at some point down the road, just to check things out. Maybe that's the way to go at present .....

Bolts seem like a great idea, Eyal.

Any other words of wisdom??

Epic2112

When I removed my studs they came out like butter. Snapping them was one of my big concerns too. I took my time though, I was doing all sorts of stuff, and for days I was soaking the studs in PBblaster (or liquid wrench, whatever I had nearby). Soak them with PBblaster, hit them with a hammer. I didn't use a rubber mallet, either, I used a regular hammer. The vibrations from hitting it help break up any rust or gavanization that might have formed, and help the PBblaster get into the little cracks. I did this everyday for maybe three or four days, while I was doing all sorts of other stuff to the car. When I finally got around to pulling those studs they came right out. I mean like with one hand and little effort. Maybe I was lucky, maybe it was the PBblaster, maybe it was both, but take your time and I think you'll be OK.

kos_007

I did not have any problems with removing the original studs on my 1986 951. I sprayed them with Rost Off Extra and waited for a few minutes before removing them. As far as the oil cooler / oil filter housing is concerned when I resealed it a few months ago I did not have to remove the exhaust header. I removed the heat shield just below the header which falls into 3 pieces when undone and used 13 mm universal joint socket with short extension to undo the bolt at the upper right corner of the oil filter housing.Another challenge was to undo the upper oil line. I ended up disconnecting it at the oil cooler under the bumper cover and removing the housing with the oil line attached.

Tom M'Guinn

I replaced my seals without removing the headers. See my write-up here:

http://members.rennlist.com/tom86951/

If you want to remove the headers anyway, you do need to remove at least some of the studs or jack the motor on that side (or pull the head with the header on it) or find some other way to get clearance.

Zero10

I pulled the studs, but the headers were so warped that it was very difficult to get the studs started when I re-installed the headers. If you can get the engine to lift up, that definately helps. With the engine in situ, and the studs installed, there is insufficient clearance to remove the headers (as many have already said).
As for re-sealing the oil cooler, it _CAN_ be done with the headers in, but it's not easy... I've done it.

mtnman82

Thanks everyone. I guess I'm going to look at this a little closer. I'd love to be able to do this without pulling the headers (I originally thought pulling the headers was going to be the easy route ... looks like taking the head off with the exhaust header attached is the easy route).

kos - or anyone - how many bolts hold on that heat shield underneath the exhaust headers, where are they located (I only see the one between the #1 and #2 cylinders), and what's the easiest method to take them off? If I can't take care of things this way, then I guess I'll look at removing the studs.

I'm going to check out your write-ups again, Tom. I spaced you had one for the oil cooler seal replacement. I've used your door lock repair procedure and it was GREAT (spot-on)!!! Excellent write-ups w/pics, Tom, and thanks for posting them! I'd just assume save taking the headers off for another day.

kos_007

Tom's write-up is excellent!

Zero10

2 or 3 bolts hold the heat shield on, it's 2 pieces. It's actually not that bad to take off, you get it from the bottom, and you do it by feel. 1/4" ratchet and sockets are your friend on this one

mtnman82

Thanks zero, and thanks again to Tom as it's in his write-up too. I'll try this tomorrow morning.

more help please: I assume I need to remove the oil pressure relief valve before I remove the housing? And for the turbo assy, do I get to it by removing the 'plug' with the ~20mm hex socket between the oil filter and the engine?