Blitzen

What are the current thoughts as to an upgrade that will fit under 16" wheels? I track the car, and the current brakes seem marginal for repeated hard track use on a 3k lb car with 300HP. Thoughts? I'd like to stick with some sort of Porsche caliper that I can pick up used, and I'd like to avoid replacing the master cylinder, if possible.

Jaak Lepson

There seems to be an age problem with our MC lately. I have replaced mine with the newer version and have noted a great improvement with my braking. The 1986 MC has a 17mm bore, newer one has a 23 to 25 mm bore. It's worth the upgrade as you may lose braking power on the track when the MC goes .... ask me how I know ....

Ski

What pads were you using? You can certianly switch pads - street to track. Pagid black are my choice for track pad, brake much better heated up than cold, modulate well, but aren't the greatest on being friendly to a rotor.

We ran the stock system on our track car for almost 2 years with Pagid Blacks. The only real reason for the upgrade to big blacks and 928 GTS rotors was that had a buddy who made me a helluva deal.

Blitzen

I am inclined to try out either Hawk Blue (rotor un-friendly) or perhaps Pagid Black. Any other thoughts out there?

As to pads, I was runing Rofren (Italian, from a local distributor) pads, which had proven unbelievably durable when I ran them on my MBZ 500E at track events. I was getting 3-4 track days out of the Rofren pads, whereas I only got about 50 miles/set out of EBC Red Stuff pads (basically, I run group). I have no experience with any of these other pads (very few applications for my MBZ, and I'm new to P-car ownership) so I'm looking forward to figuring it out.

Ski

For a little more than $320 or so, vs $1600 - $2000 to upgrade the complete brake system, I think Pagid blacks are worth try.

Alpine951

I have an 86 and I use the Hawk 9012 racing blues. Very happy. The pads on these cars are the easiest to swap. Once you take the wheel off there is a cross shaped spring that is at the back of the caliper. Just open one end of the spring and the pads slide out. Slide in the street ot track pad put the spring back and its done. Can be done in 30 seconds per caliper once the wheel is off. switching my street to track pads before an event is easy. I drive with the track pads on the street before events. I just have to be careful because they don't work too well if they are not hot. Use some high temp brake fluid. ATE blue is popular. There are others too. I started using a Ford heavy duty truck fluid that I found out about in the racing/DE section. Its cheap. Not as good wet boiling temp as Super blue but since it has to be bled before every event, so what. I also put in the brake proportioning valve from a 928 in my car this year. it puts some more pressure to the rears once a certain pressure threshold is met. I like it. No ,ore nose dive on braking. It is easier to lock the rears on my car now but I quickly learned to be smoother on initial application to prevent them from locking.

Sam Lin

Most people spend too much on brakes and too little on ducting. Take the money that you'd spend on ONE set of pads and put some real ducts on the car. You'll make the money back on the next set of pads or rotors you buy.

Sam

951fan

Definitely try a pad, rotor, and fluid upgrade before anything major. Swapping to a larger heavier caliper and rotor setup will decrease stopping distance but also adds a fair amont of unspring weight. Shouldn't be necessary. Totally agree with the cooling comment. You can fab your own mounts to add turbo cup/968 brake ducts or get the kits with the necessary bits from Diversified Cryogenics; or from CDOC where I work

Ski

like this Sam?

RolexNJ

Ski: For a dedicated track car, why not the Pagid Orange? I thought when I went and read on them, they are the first choice for track cars, no? And what about for me too. You know I have the Big Reds, a brake bias, cool ducts, yada, yada, yada. What happens if I wanted to really track the car hard, wouldnt they be ideal?

TRWright

Rob, big reds are not ideal for the 951. I will help you out and swap them for my stock calipers.

RolexNJ

Nice try pal!

Blitzen

I was checking out 2 '87 Rothman's 944 turbo cars-some trick stuff, like Magnesium 8" & 9" stock-looking wheels, on/off ABS, etc. One of them had my brakes, but better OE ducts. I'm tracking down the P/Ns, as they look like they'll bolt up. to my setup. And I picked up some Hawk Blue pads; we'll see how they do.

Sam Lin

Make sure you can get enough heat into the Blues to get them working in chemical friction and not physical friction, otherwise they'll devour rotors.

Sam

Blitzen

I didn't realize you could elect physical vs chemical friction: I thought that was a characteristic of the pad?