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tips for removing the head

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Old 09-10-2005, 05:04 PM
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emwporsche
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Default tips for removing the head

I have no idea what I'm doing so the more info the better!
pics are good!

some of the allen heads looked stripped so that's going to suck...
and I have a 1 piece cross-over...

I think I'm going to have a shop put it back on with the rebuilt head, but I need to get it off first!

thanks,

Eric
Old 09-10-2005, 05:24 PM
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badcoupe
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the rounded heads I usually use an oversize drill and drill the heads off and use a stud puller to get the remainder out. Tap your allen into them first and apply lots of downward pressure this usually works use the drill as a last resort. Otherwise it's not that bad of a job. Getting the stock head studs out can be a chore if you're going to replace them. I heated mine to get them out. Getting the the manifold bolts out without them breaking also can be a trick I broke 2 of mine off in the head despite using a good penetrant. Then upon reassembly one broke off. Lesson- buy new ones at the hradware store. Watch that the hard vacuum lines don't break unless you've deleted them!
Old 09-10-2005, 07:53 PM
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Rich Sandor
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Having just put the head back on my car, I can offer a few tips:

1: Wake up the allen head bolts by putting the allen head socket in, and then tapping it with a mallet or hammer. Hit it a few times reasonably hard. This should loosen any rust in between the threads.

2: Get a "pull-out/ twist-out" socket set. They are basically sockets that go right over the top of a stripped allen head or hex head bolt, and they grab unto the side of the bolt's head, and dig in, making it easy to remove the bolt without having to get out a drill.

3: When removing the allen head bolts inside the cam cover (and when replacing them) make damn sure they don't fall back into the cam cover - or else you'll have a hell of a time fishing them out. I used a 1.5foot long slinky probe, with rectractable claws at the end to get out the bolts when they fell back in!

4: When removing the head, I find it's easier to simply keep the exhaust manifold connected to the head, because it's imperative that you loosen the bottom of the exhaust manifold to get enough play to put it back together.. so you may as well do that first when you're taking it apart to save time later. Try to remove everything that would get in the way - power steering res., coolant rail, fuel hoses, etc.
Old 09-10-2005, 07:56 PM
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NZ951
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Good luck Eric! I have a drink coaster that may help... let me know.
Old 09-10-2005, 07:59 PM
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Rich Sandor
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oh yeah, definately print out Clark's Garage's workshop section on Head Removal.

Don't forget to send him a few $ if you find it usefull.
Old 09-10-2005, 08:03 PM
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MPD47
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Make sure you wake up EVERY allen you go to remove. When you pull off the cam tower and put it back on it's easier to keep the lifters in using a dab of grease (installation) and have the passangers side jacked up slightly.

Also a dab of grease will help keep the allen in the bolt. The Snap-On long allens work GREAT for this.
Old 09-10-2005, 08:13 PM
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Rich Sandor
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I dunno about using grease.. the service manual is pretty clear about using OIL only for anything inside the head and cam cover. Grease will clog the little oil pressure valve in the head.
Old 09-10-2005, 08:51 PM
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hosrom_951
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Just a thin film of grease on the lifter housings are all you need to hold the lifters in place, as well as for the intake manifold gaskets as well.

Just make sure you have both mating surfaces clean and dry before installing the gaskets (cylinder head and camshaft housing), you should be fine.

PS: Did you get a head gasket kit or just the head gasket?
Old 09-10-2005, 11:42 PM
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Zero10
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Don't worry about using a small amount of grease on the heads of the allen bolts and lifters. I use wheel bearing grease. Remember, it's oil based. It will dissolve before it could possibly clog anything

Take your time, and if you get mad, walk away before you break something. Tips I wish I had followed a couple times.
Old 09-10-2005, 11:44 PM
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Tom M'Guinn

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Originally Posted by Zero10
Don't worry about using a small amount of grease on the heads of the allen bolts and lifters. I use wheel bearing grease. Remember, it's oil based. It will dissolve before it could possibly clog anything

Take your time, and if you get mad, walk away before you break something. Tips I wish I had followed a couple times.

Assembly lube works well!
Old 09-11-2005, 03:36 PM
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RPG951S
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Petroleum jelly also works great for holding in the lifters, and dissolves real quick...
Old 09-11-2005, 09:02 PM
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Zero10
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If you have a good thick assembly lube, you're right. Mine is pretty liquidy. It keeps them from falling out very fast, but it doesn't just hold them in place.
That's why I use wheel bearing grease.
I figuire the bearing grease should lubricate well enough until some oil gets in there.
Old 09-11-2005, 09:10 PM
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I just put my head on so I will refrain form advice until until I start the car and there aren't any problems....
Old 09-11-2005, 09:13 PM
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Gator_86_951
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Assembly lube in the freezer will hold the lifters in place for more then enough time to flip the cambox over and get it into place....



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