Blitzen

As to wrapping the intake, I'm looking to reflect heat away from it...I plan to wrap the tubes to/from the IC as well as the airbox for this very reason...looking to minimize the myriad ways the intake charge can be heated by underhood temps and a wildly spinning turbo.

As to the exhaust, as I understand exhaust gases cool from the moment they leave the combustion chamber, and since cooler air moves slower, you lose some exhaust velocity and (I'm sure only incrementally) thereby boost. With that said, what I'm really trying to do is to decrease underhood temps, so the more heat the exhaust can take with it, and not leave behind under the hood, should improve component life.

I do not plan to wrap the turbo - in my proposed "dry" (no water cooling) setup, I'd think that would cook the innards of that turbo fast!

Blitzen

Okay, turbo's out and no rounded bolts! I followed the 'Clark's Garage' instructions to the letter, and the job went smoothly. I can't believe how much torque it took to loosen the crossover pipe nuts! But I left the crossover in place, and I'm not sure if a 2-piece deal is all that necessary...with the right hand tools (a close friend owns a well-stocked professional garage nearby) everything is accessible.

Now it goes back together - waiting on exhaust gaskets, an oil seal, the AOS rings from Lindsey and the venturi delete (all due tomorrow) and that's about it. Thanks again for all the help!

Andial951

ok now come over and do mine.....

Blitzen

Hey, fly me out, put me up somewhere nice, we can talk ;-)

Blitzen

Latest: Awaiting exhaust pipe gaskets & dipstick O ring. Porsche does NOT impress me with their turnaround on parts, everything's backordered.

In any event, knocking out other stuff like motor mounts-doing the left side since it's right in front of me. Also, thermal wrapping what I can, gonna try to do the crossover pipe in place. Can anyone suggest a tactic for removing the old exhaust pipe O-ring style gaskets from their channels?

MPD47

You're ordering from the dealer? Ouch... goto Paragon Parts and Lindsey Racing, the longest turnaround wait I've had is 2 days, period.

Blitzen

Learned that lesson today-parts already shipped by Dave @ Lindsey (I'm on the east coast, so Paragon takes a while to get to me)

JDeitz951

The catch can should be routed back to the J-boot. The crankcase needs vacuum to aid in oil flow through the turbo. Read about it here.

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/218882-vitesse-stage-iii-installed-and-running.html
(scroll down, it's not the original topic of the thread)

I'm convinced and I'm doing it this weekend. You need a special breather cap from Moroso. You might also search the forums for "catch can". If you do route it back to the J-boot, you don't have to drill the AOS.

My '86 has the 2-pc crossover (and the exhaust manifold with bellows). From what I heard, these items were super double-secret warranty items the dealers installed on the early cars for free, but it was not advertised.

My local Porsche dealer (Schneider+Nelson) will get me anything overnite for an extra $20 as long as it is somewhere in their US system. Cheaper than UPS RED. Much cheaper if it's big stuff. ANd they stock a lot of stuff for ours cars. Weird stuff like interior lights and armrest hinge thingies.

ZV

Hmmm...
My '86 has the bellows manifold too, makes me wonder about the crossover.

Andial951

[QUOTE=JDeitz951]

My '86 has the 2-pc crossover (and the exhaust manifold with bellows). From what I heard, these items were super double-secret warranty items the dealers installed on the early cars for free, but it was not advertised.

QUOTE]

Do you have a pic of this?

mroberts

How long did it take you to get the turbo out ?

WesM951

Yea the 2peice x-over and bellowed manifold, where a service bulleten that should have been done. Not all cars had it done. (mine for example)

Blitzen

Thanks again, all.

I really can't say exactly how long it took me to yank the turbo, since I'm touching all sorts of extra stuff while I'm here (R&R motor mounts; thermal reflective wrap on wiring, fuel lines & rail, & intake manifold, wrapping exhaust, dry turbo conversion, etc. etc.) but maybe 4-5 hours with the right tools? It really wasn't hard, just a lot of steps.

My car does not have the 2 piece crossover, but it's insulated from the factory and remains in place during this job.

As to the "Catch Can", I've already drilled it out (I had the O/A separator out of the car for this reason), and given I've deleted the Venturi system and the cycling valve and removed that entire rat's nest, my system's fairly straightforward now. Given my nearly stock config, do I really need to vent the catch can to the J-boot? And if I've already drilled out the OAS, if I were to go back to the J boot, wouldn't the vacuum be greater than stock? Has anybody actually measured a stock system to see if indeed vacuum is being applied to the OAS, or is this merely a theory? I mean, look at the design: not only does it vent excess out the top, but it accesses the block at both high & low points, and it also connects over to the turbo mounting bracket via the rubber elbow & hard pipe.

Thoughts?

JDeitz951

[QUOTE=Andial951]No, why do you ask? I could give you a description if that's what your need.

Crossover: 1 pc type has 2-to-1 collector then the main pipe which goes to the turbo. Just below the collector is a branch which connects directly to the WG. 2-pc type has a much shorter WG branch AND a 2nd pc which is a shorty pipe to hook up to the WG. Makes it easier to assemble.

Manifold: on the 1-4 y-pipe there is an accordion section (bellows) on one branch. They used to break there without the bellows.

JDeitz951

John Vitesse:
"I strongly recommend you route the catch can back to the J-pipe.. I have seen too many problems when not routed."

Me:
"John, can you elaborate on this? What kind of problems?"

JV:
"If the crankcase pressure gets high, and it will unless you vacuum it out, the turbo will not drain properly. With improper drainage, the turbo will flood, leaks or you'll just see a puff of smoke."

I get 2 and maybe 3 of these symptoms. I realize that what John said about building pressure is not possible due to it being open to atmosphere, but I also realize that the negative presure was something that the engineers may have been counting on for this particularly lubrication-sensitive engine.