Blitzen

I edited my earlier post-sorry to screw up the sequence of the thread, but you guys are fast!

JDeitz951

The stock crankcase is truly sealed and the intake connection applies negative pressure. If you remove the oil filler cap, the idle will waver because you caused a vacuum leak. Once you plug the J-boot, this is no longer true.

I don't think any considerable volume of air is moved through the OAS since the crankcase is sealed, therefore the size of the hole in the OAS is not important. Maybe when vented to the open catch can the hole size becomes more important.

I installed the catch can because I thought I was getting oil in my intake from the OAS , but I guess it's from my turbo seals. My catch can accumulates no oil. I have heard of others that do, and that can be a symptom of blow-by past the rings. In that case there would be some considerable volume of air moving through the OAS .

I think the catch can is of questionable benefit if it doesn't "catch" anything, but it is a good tell-tale if I ever do develop a problem. And in closed loop form it must do a better job than the stock OAS alone.

Blitzen

As to the issue regarding venting a catch can back to the J boot, please explain how a cap that is vented and has a hose fitting can create vacuum as the original system is supposed to have done? I'm simply still not sold on the notion of venting back to the J boot.

Thanks

JDeitz951

The AOS is not vented, what do you mean? It has 2 opening to the block and one on top. Those slots around the top aren't vents, that's where it snaps together with a rubber gasket underneath (I haven't seen this but have read about how they come apart.)

Blitzen

As to my earlier question, I was wondering how a catch can with a breather cap might create vacuum.

In any event, I finished putting everything back together, adn the car ran great for about 40 miles, when the turbo went! I'm pulling it apart now, and will post what I find. Purportedly the turbo was rebuilt by Majestic, so I'm planning on sending it to them for dissection.

Any ideas as to where else I might get my original turbo rebuilt? I'm looking for torque & quick spool-up, not ultimate horsepower & endless mods...trying to keep things simple.

JDeitz951

It can't. My OAS is plumbed to the catch can side port and the top port (where the breather used to be) has a hose going to the J-boot. That is a closed system with the J-boot, so it always sees vacuum throughout when the engine is running..

The original manufacturer KKK was purchased by Borg-Warner and I've heard they are the best rebuilder. I would start there, not go to Majestic again.

http://www.turbodriven.com/en/home/index.asp

Blitzen

After much consideration, I'm going to spring for a new K26/8, which I can on my doorstep (Sat. delivery) for a cool $1k. And that's with a 1 year warranty. I expect to have it in the car by midday tomorrow, so getting on track by Thu. should be do-able.

FWIW I still plan to run APE Stage 2 chips, along with a manual boost controller set at .9 BAR or so.

JDeitz951

Good move. I will be buying new someday, hopefully next year. Best of luck!

Blitzen

Thanks for your continued support. I'll post how it goes.

NZ951

Thank goodness someone brought up the re-routing of the AOS into the intake... its VERY important. The oil still gets "caught" in the can, but the LR design vents to ATM, so its well, pointless to route that one back as it comes. I am surprised they didnt mention the draw backs of not maintaining vacuum. At any rate, its not all lost, you can add a new cap and route back to the intake, David did this and posted pics and part numbers

Blitzen

K26/8 is in, all seems well. Definitely more power, boost comes on a bit stronger but,really keeps pulling. Not crazy fast, but solid.

JDeitz951

Lucky you ! May your pistons rings get rusty for lack of intake air lubricant!

JDeitz951

I followed that link to Borg-Warner through to their turbo division service centers. There's one in NJ called "Jersey Rebuilders". Damn if that name isn't familiar. They are located right across and down the road a 1000 feet from my business! I've passed them at least 5000 times and actually stopped in once way back when for some reason. But the signs says "diesel engine specialists" so I never knew they were a turbo rebuilder. I'll have to stop in again soon! Maybe I WILL try rebuilding again!

Blitzen

I sourced mine from DuraBilt in Bradley, IL. They seemed very knowledgeable, and boast 1 of only 3 high speed balancers in the U.S. Although the turbo I purchased is brand new, I wouldn't hesitate to send these guys an old turbo for a rebuild. I'm actually going to send them my 2 old cores in the hopes of recouping some of my losses.

As to the new turbo, it is very quiet and seems to spool up much like the K26/6 did, just ultimately gets to a higher level and is able to sustain boost at higher speeds/RPMs. I haven't put the APE chipset in yet (though the car is believed to have Stage I APE chips in it already), but will post my results.

Blitzen

I installed the APE Stage II chips, but the car wouldn't start so I changed back to the APE Stage I chipset. Does anyone know the difference? All I know is that the Stage II comes with a banjo bolt, Stage I does not.

Car runs fabulously - now I FINALLY know why people like these cars so much. I'm tracking the car on Lime Rock this coming Thursday (with Hudson Valley PCA) and think I'll have an easier time keeping out of the way of the really fast cars (I run in Red, so lots of scary fast cars-even with what must be approaching 300HP, I'll be working hard just to stay at the back of the pack ;-) )

So, with 150k on my engine, how much boost do I run? I'm at .9 BAR now (per the factory gauge) and it feels plenty strong :-)