hosrom_951

Markus: Very nice project going on, keep up updated on what goes on.

Just have one question to ask you, why didn't you replace all fuel lines? i mean, after all the time and money that you put into the project, better to change those lines and avoid those factory lines causing engine fires (the fuel lines look stock, but you replaced just the shield around them?)

DanG

Markus,

I haven't seen a trigger setup like that before. It looks like you have a "speed and reference" style setup, one sensor picks up multiple triggers per cam rev (maybe 4?) and the other a single pulse per cam rev? Is that true?

Concerning cam belt stretch and/or oscillation, I haven't taken any data so I have no idea. I would have to say that you'd see increasing retard of cam position compared to crank position as the rpms climbed, but there would also likely be oscillation around that value, due to the power pulses and varied cam rotational resistance due to valve actuation. So my guess would be no, you couldn't easily program out the changes in cam vs. crank position.

We're tossing some trigger ideas around over here...

http://www.darklightning.com/motroni...opic.php?t=104

What kind of signal does your engine management system want? Right now I'm most in favor of a 40T "speed" sensor off the crank-mounted balance belt sprocket, then either the stock reference sensor, or a custom cam mounted reference sensor that would allow COP control.

Hopefully by using a crank mounted speed trigger, I'll be able to avoid any of the belt stretch issues of a cam mounted setup. The ignition timing and dwell control are triggered by the "speed" teeth, not the reference pulse.

Ian Carr

Looks real good man. Definitely one of a kind. I would just suggest finding another way to cover the head light duct. But other than that , your car is Definitely some thing rennlist has not seen (atleast since i have been here)

-Ian

hosrom_951

Markus,
For the trigger set-up, try contacting Chris White at www.944enhancement.com, i believe he has something for that.

HIGHBOOST

Exhaust looks very clean, howcome you didn't vent to the atmoshpere. Man really nice project here!

NZ951

Where did you get those side skirts???

Edman951

Hey Markus,
Happy to see you got it on and running.
Looks good. Nice exhaust work

Did you take a picture of the adaptor you made to mount the turbo on the engine mount?

The GT turbo's do have a nice sound. The spooling sound is really nice.

I agree with ST, dataloging on the street with wideband save alot of dyno time and $$. I suggest doing lots of street tuning and take it to the dyno to finalise it up.

Hosrom 951, he doesn't need a trigger wheel. He already has a setup working fine.

black944 turbo

Sweet car man.

Markus951

Well It is really nice ride, specially the bodykit and mirrors. I know that Miikka will make this as unigue as mine.
At the moment My fuel lines are stock. But I will replace them with teflon covered, slightly bigger diameter units.

Yup thats AEM Wideband sensor wire coming from under the car to interior, but I changed it allready, it now goes throgh engine by straight to inetior.

Those came with the car when I bought it. They are original Strosek units.

Im allready making a new duct out of glassfiber. I will post pictures soon. It will bolt on to stock headlight cover and measurements are exactly the same, of course it will have some air wents for cool air feed..

My trigger wheel gives impulses for 2 hall sensors. One of them reads Home signal and the other hall reads RPM signal. Home hall gets impulse from one trigger pin, rpm (injector) hall will get impulses from 2 trigger pins. One pin for (1,4 cilinder), other trigger pin for (2,3 cilinder). Home signal trigger is located minus 30 degress from first cilinder pair. and 60-90 degres from second cilinder pair.

This picture should give you a clue what is it.


But at the moment I have upgreded to Tatech 5 with has sequential injector control so I need just one trigger pin for all silinders (before that I had 2 triggerpins (one per cilinder pair).

Of course Carnk mounted sensros are much more accurate. But only place you can put them on 951 is the flywheel. I tryed to weld some trigger pins to front crank pulley. BUt you can only mount 2 mm pins there otherwise powersteering belt will be damaged. My first trigger setup was like this, butv2 mm is too triggerpin is too narrow to get the signal out for hall sensor. So I changed it to this. My friend has built system like this to supersaloon toyota corolla what revs up to 9500+ rpm, and it works fine there..


We went for desttune yesteday. It pulls really hard even with 25% throttle. But we got it so far that with 11.8-12.5 AFR, 12 psi of boost, it started to detonate, so now it is time to play with ignition now. That turbo really screams when going on boost. You almost dont hear exhaust noise at all, just whistle.

Markus

Olli Snellman

That body kit is our own production

Ian Carr

i just went over your parts again and i realized you say you have a anti lag system. What exactly is the system? It isn't Bang Bang is it? cause with bang bang you need a hard core exhaust and it kind of kills your turbo after a couple thousand miles

I am just curious because i do not see to many anti lag systems for our cars.

Markus951

My ecu is capable of anti lag. Im not sure that Im going to use it. And Im aware what is does to the turbo.

Mike Murcia

How laggy is that GT30r? If it's ball bearing, it can't be that bad, right? I remember seeing videos from Edman951 where he was reaching max boost at idle just by revving the engine.

Campeck

calm down ST. i didnt imply you said anything.

i meant that if you tune the car for the street. you get a car that runs nice. no bog on acceleration and overall a nice street car. BUTT (lol) [this is a question.] since you cant actually tell how much power the car is making. just that it drives good. wouldn't you want to go to the dyno to find the hp that you're missing?
either leaner/richer/spark advance or retard the engine till it makes good power aling with the good driveability.

Markus951

Guy's, there are several different way's to tune the car, some of them are tuned on the dyno, some of them on the rolling road. Some of the cars on the dyne and fine tune on the rolling road. My quess is that rolling road conditions are much more realistic than dyno. I happened to have a friend who is specialized more on the rolling road tuning, dyno HP figures means **** to me, because all the dynos will show me different figures so I quess that most accurate would be visit 5 different dynos and then calculate average HP/Torque figure .

I will post you all boost curve versus rpm, throttle position, lambda etc. Edmans spoolup is impressive but my car is completely stock inside, no head work etc. And also, this is My first Porsche ever, and my first project ever, non of my other rides have seen bigger turbo, fuel management etc. I do not know maybe Im doing this all wrong, maybe I should of chosen the way, most of us do here by sticking with KKK, some map kit, some chips and keep Porsche original fuel system...

We are going to tune it this weekend on friday in estonia on one abandoned military airfield where they used to keep those MIG23's and MIG 21's so I quess at this moment places like this are perfect for my purpose. No traffic not anyone...