Cutting Hard Fuel Line
#1
Racer
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Ok Just recieved my new ss fuel lines and I was wondering how should I go about cutting the hard fuel line? I was thinking of using a dreme but then there is still fuel in the line and wont a spark cause a fire? Is there a way to drain the hard pipe? If your not sure Im talking about the fuel line near the front right wheel well.
#2
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Do not use a dremel. That is a bad bad bad idea. Go and get a small pipe cutter from a hardware store. It should be about $8. Lindsey sells one and it is linkable from their fuel line kit webpage. You may have difficulty getting the cutter all the way around, but you should be able to cut enough away to get the upper part detached and attach the new lines.
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Use a smal pipe cutter. I had one that would fit in the palm of my hand at a local parts store. You will have to bend the metal line out a little to use it but it gives a clean cut. Consider covering the line with a thermosleve. That metal brade gets really hot.
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Yup went with the pauerman kit. I ordered them weds and got it today. I went to the hardware store and bought the pipe cutter for about $9 and after a few hours I finally got them installed. Anyways heres some pics. I also decided to flip the fpr cause I thought it fit better.
#7
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What was the cost on the pauerman kit? Is it comparable to the rennaby and lindsey kits?
I just bought the lindsey kit, and went with plain old rubber lines, since I'm not looking for anything flashy.
I'm trying to figure out the correct way to install them, no instructions came with the kit.
I just bought the lindsey kit, and went with plain old rubber lines, since I'm not looking for anything flashy.
I'm trying to figure out the correct way to install them, no instructions came with the kit.
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Yea they were $148 shipped but they were highly recommend. Its a little pricey but the service was great and the quality is excellent and it came with some instructions. Basically you just cut the old lines and install the new ones.
#9
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The pauerman kit is very sweet. Its all about the connectors! And they are world class. I want a kit badly! They are expensive because of the quality, why not spend a few extra dollars to prevent a fire...
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I considered the kit worth the investment. I would strongly recommend placing a therosheild over the lines. The metal braid just sucks in the heat from the headers. The OEM lines had a rubber shield to protect the rubber lines. Right, it doesn't look as nice, but it works.
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How do those connectors work. My brain can grasp the concept of a rubber hose and clamp, but how do those fancy connectors work? You don't need to flare the end or anthing?
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Originally Posted by Zero10
What was the cost on the pauerman kit? Is it comparable to the rennaby and lindsey kits?
I just bought the lindsey kit, and went with plain old rubber lines, since I'm not looking for anything flashy.
I'm trying to figure out the correct way to install them, no instructions came with the kit.
I just bought the lindsey kit, and went with plain old rubber lines, since I'm not looking for anything flashy.
I'm trying to figure out the correct way to install them, no instructions came with the kit.
I went with the Lindsay kit--pretty striaghtforward. Depressurize, fuel rail, disconncet, FPR and Damper--keep some rags about as there will be some fuel leaking. This is a good time to do the small stubby hose too. Jack up passenger side, remove fenderwell lining. You will see the lines right there. I was able to cut the solid line slightly above where the line mounting bracket is located--check out the pic earlier in this thread. As they mentioned, you will need to pull the hard line out slightly in order to get a mini-pipe cutter in there. Cut hard line, install LR line--pull it down snug over the hard line and tighten the fitting. (I also put the heat sleeve that they sell on mine), run the other end, back up to the rail following the original routing. Once you have them installed, start the car and check for leaks(I had a good leak at the hardline/LR fitting because I didn't have the LR line far enough onto the hard line.). If there are no leaks, take the car for a drive before you re-install the fenderliner and check again for leaks. If no leaks, button it all back up and off you go.