adrial

Near the engine ID tag I have an oil leak from the HG...

Both the block and head were machined, the mating surfaces were perfect.

I will try a retorque and hope for the best...

(Otherwise no problems)

ewainwright

I am sorry to hear about your headgasket problem. However, thank-you for sharing your issue and at least saving me from a similar experience. ed

Ski

Adrial, which head studs did you end up using? Did you get the standard thickness MLS or one thicker? Just curious...

adrial

ewainright,

A retorque may solve this issue...in which case I wouldn't make it a reason to not use this gasket. I believe the racewares head studs require a retorque after a few heat cycles...

Bret,

I used ARP's with the standard MLS thickness gasket.

CPTdooberhead

This is correct

Ski

I thought you used ARP's. The reason I ask is I have a set that I plan on using next time. Did you install the studs, gasket, head, torque it...and leave it overnight and then come back for retorque? I think this is what my instruction sheet said. Good luck with it, hope the retorque gets the leak stopped.

adrial

I did use ARP's.

I followed the directions that you describe Bret.

Maybe the guys at raceware are onto something... Perhaps the ARP's do the same thing to a lesser degree, which isnt an issue with the standard HG but becomes an issue with an MLS gasket. Or maybe I just screwed up torquing em (dont think so, but maybe).

David Floyd

Are you sure it is the headgasket leaking ?

I let my ARP studs set overnight then final torque with the MLS.

adrial

Well, its not wet above the ID tag... so it cant logically be coming from anywhere else...

Also, I can see it pouring out...

Next weekend I'm going to retorque it, so I'll let everybody know how that goes.

Tom M'Guinn

For what it's worth, when I did my head with raceware studs, I did retorque after a few heat cycles, and none of the nuts needed to be tightened at all. That was with a stock gasket however.

hosrom_951

The engine ID tag is located neat the heater hose metal line correct?

You say it's leaking oil there (but not wet right)?

Doesn't that USUALLY indicate a failing/failed camshaft housing gasket rather than the HG itself?

Just asking

DDP

I am sorry to highjack this thread but could someone give me a quick description on what the diff is between the WF and the MLS? Which is better? Is it opinion? Thanks

Ski

there is a thread "which head gasket for me", detailed, arguments, history, install, etc in there. Search and find it, good stuff and pics in there for you.

m42racer

An observation. Head studs will never require retorquing. If the stud loses its tension, then it should never be used. I am sure neither the ARP's or raceware Studs require retorquing. Are you sure, its not becauase of the stock Gasket? This type of Gasket construction requires the fasteners to be retorqued as the gasket crushes, not because the studs lose their tensile.
The MLS gaket construction does not require retorquing as this type of gasket does not crush.
If your Head is leaking Oil, then I suspect you have a problem with either the Block deck or the head. If these two surfaces are good, the gasket will seal. Typically, oil sealing is not a problem. I suspect something else.

adrial

m42racer,

I believe that the retorquing may be for the stock HG, but its worth a shot... Perhaps things shift a little after a few heat cycles and after that everything is settled into place.

These 2 surfaces are perfect; both of them were machined prior to install.

What do you suspect? the OPRV in the head?