Those two colors can signify two different wires, one red wire with a yellow strip is in theory different from a yellow wire with a red strip... The one you want should be red with a yellow strip, red signifies positive.

Easiest way is to grab a voltmeter and test it. Switched it would come on with the key is in and turned to one of the clicks (any of them should work). The ground is easy, just find a spot where a ground wire is bolted to the body.

 

Yes

 

Buy some heat shrink tubing as well. Most places sell a "grab bag" of a bunch of sizes, buy a bag or two. You want thicker ones for the spots where you have several wires tapped into one (this'll happen when you get the ZT2 brain, a boost controller harness, fuel cut defenders, etc all tapped into a few wires).

Since its a tube, you have to cut the wire, slide it on, then solder away. I dont like doing this, so I usually solder everything up, wrap it tight in electrical tape, then use small zip ties so that it keeps the tape on AND holds the wires together so the solder doesnt brake.

 

Thanks. Sounds like the way I'd want to do it.

 

got mine this afternoon and installed it, only took about 30 mins. i didn't install the TPS output because i couldn't figure out what i'd ever use it for. what do y'all use it for? also noticed that the AF ratios that the zeitronix were showing were quite a bit richer than what the wideband at the dyno showed (9's versus 11's).

 

Which brings up the question of what kind of accuracy we can expect from the device. How does it compare to the devices used at dynoshops?

 

i'll be going to the dyno this saturday, i should have a better idea then.

 

so i used my zeitronix wideband at the dyno today, worked great. the ability to log afr vs rpm and then replay it was very useful in tuning my car.

 

How did the wideband reading compare to the air-fuel reading from the dyno?

 

hi tom,
unfortunately i was unable to correlate my readings with the dyno's wideband since we didn't use it. however i did discover why my readings on the zeitronix looked too rich at first, namely that my boost settings had dropped off some. with that fixed the zeitronix readings looked at lot like the dyno wideband readings that i took a month ago.