is there a way to test the idle stabilizer when it's out of the car?

 

I was just about to post the same question. I bought an idle stabilizer on ebay as I couldn't get my car to idle, it would also cut out as soon as it hit 9-10 psi boost. I checked the TPS, replaced the O2 sensor, swapped out the AFM with a different used one, checked all the boost connections and cleaned all the connectors with contact cleaner. I checked the DME solder joints with a magnifying glass, they looked great. I bypassed the CV and used a reliaboost, went back to my old FPR. I finally pulled the intake manifold and one of the vacuum lines was off. Major vacuum leak! The car ran great before I changed the belts, water pump, plug wires, vacuum hoses...I can't believe I didn't tighten that clamp properly. I assume my old idle stabilizer is OK, the ebay one looks cleaner, both rattle when shaken. How do I test them to make sure I put the best one in? Both are currently off the car as I'm waiting on intake manifold gaskets. TIA.

 

The idle stabilizer is a simple DC motor. The center pin is ground and the outer pins are for 12 volts.

To control engine idle the DME applies 12 volts to the appropriate pin to either open or close the valve.

I would recommend using a DVM to test for continuity first.

The only "safe" way I can think of to test the ISV is to disconnect your current ISV (this may be a tad difficult!), connect the "new" ISV to the wire harness, start the engine, and then turn on the A/C, while someone watches the valve.

Since the original ISV does not have any input the engine RPM will fall. The DME will see this drop in RPM and will try to open the "new" ISV.

 

Shaheed, you can test the ISV with the SMT6. Same way we connected the boost solenoid, of course you'll use a dummy map... Don't you love the PB? LOL

 

yes sir, actually i do...