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Of course it will.
Do you know what a pilot bearing is?
Do you know where a pilot bearing is?
When a pilot bearing fails, the driveshaft may continue to spin with the crankshaft, even with the clutch dis-engaged.
Of course it will.
Do you know what a pilot bearing is?
Do you know where a pilot bearing is?
When a pilot bearing fails, the driveshaft may continue to spin with the crankshaft, even with the clutch dis-engaged.
The driveshaft is meant to spin in the pilot bearing. Again, it’s just a bearing.
The pilot bearing supports the front end of the input shaft in the back of the crankshaft.
In this case, the 'input shaft' is the front of the torque tube shaft, which is hard coupled to the transaxle input shaft.
For the engine rotation to uncouple from the trans, not only does the clutch need to release, but the pilot bearing needs to spin free.
If the pilot bearing seizes, it will continue transmitting motion into the trans.
When you shift, the synchros in the trans act like little brakes to match the gear speed to the shaft speed.
If the shaft is powered (maybe from the drag of the pilot bearing?!) the synchros need to work that much harder.
If the bearing drags enough, those little 'brakes' (synchros) aren't strong enough to stop the shaft rotating, and the gears can never engage.
If you start the car in gear, with the clutch depressed, the much larger brakes on the car can overpower that sticky bearing and stop the shaft rotating.
Black89's diagnostic procedure was textbook.
The clutch might still be dragging, but by verifying that the release point was as normal, he's virtually eliminated that as a possibility.
The pilot bearing supports the front end of the input shaft in the back of the crankshaft.
In this case, the 'input shaft' is the front of the torque tube shaft, which is hard coupled to the transaxle input shaft.
For the engine rotation to uncouple from the trans, not only does the clutch need to release, but the pilot bearing needs to spin free.
If the pilot bearing seizes, it will continue transmitting motion into the trans.
When you shift, the synchros in the trans act like little brakes to match the gear speed to the shaft speed.
If the shaft is powered (maybe from the drag of the pilot bearing?!) the synchros need to work that much harder.
If the bearing drags enough, those little 'brakes' (synchros) aren't strong enough to stop the shaft rotating, and the gears can never engage.
If you start the car in gear, with the clutch depressed, the much larger brakes on the car can overpower that sticky bearing and stop the shaft rotating.
Black89's diagnostic procedure was textbook.
The clutch might still be dragging, but by verifying that the release point was as normal, he's virtually eliminated that as a possibility.
Thanks for the info Nowanker. I think I get it now.
Hey folks, thought I'de update for posterity. Finally ended up getting the clutch done, turns out that some of the pressure plate fingers are bent. So getting new clutch, hydraulics replaced, rms while in there.
Curious if anybody has seen a failure like this and what would cause it - seems like an odd failure for spring steel. Stock P-parts as you can see. ~100k miles on the car
Looked more closely and I see there is a 5 and 96 on the fingers at the top of the image - is this a date code?
Yes, that is the date of production.
In terms of the failure, you dream up any possible ways for a piece of metal to fail, and it will.
It's just a matter of time.
The good thing that it is so simple to replace the clutch.....
Any clutch job, which starts with "remove the intake manifold", then proceeds to "remove the transmission'", and then says "remove the rear suspension" is not going to be a quick and simple task.
Thanks - would seem the current clutch has lasted a decent time then. If I get 20+ years out of the next one I won't complain
re the bent fingers, sure metal fatigues.. but I understand these are pull type clutches so there should not be any high forces pushing on the plate so I can't think of how the fingers would have been bent inwards