Need some clutch wisdom - suddenly won't go into gear
#1
Need some clutch wisdom - suddenly won't go into gear
Long time lurker, first time poster
This happened all of a sudden - start the car in the garage and can't get it into gear. Clutch feels fine, same "weight" as previous but it's not releasing. I got under the car today and can see through the inspection hole (cover missing of course..) that the rod rests in the normal position, and extends to what would seem to be normal from my research. I can't measure it directly, but when engaged, the rod is far enough extended that I can't fit my pinky between it and the wall, so hydraulics seem fine. As getting to the internals is a sizable job I wanted to see if anybody had any other thoughts before I commit myself to having it pulled apart.
Seems that it's either:
- clutch disk stuck / jammed with something?
- bent fork
fwiw it did this once before - in that case, stopped the engine, restart and it was good to go again
car is 89 951 with 106K miles. May well be original clutch
Any insights appreciated!
This happened all of a sudden - start the car in the garage and can't get it into gear. Clutch feels fine, same "weight" as previous but it's not releasing. I got under the car today and can see through the inspection hole (cover missing of course..) that the rod rests in the normal position, and extends to what would seem to be normal from my research. I can't measure it directly, but when engaged, the rod is far enough extended that I can't fit my pinky between it and the wall, so hydraulics seem fine. As getting to the internals is a sizable job I wanted to see if anybody had any other thoughts before I commit myself to having it pulled apart.
Seems that it's either:
- clutch disk stuck / jammed with something?
- bent fork
fwiw it did this once before - in that case, stopped the engine, restart and it was good to go again
car is 89 951 with 106K miles. May well be original clutch
Any insights appreciated!
#3
Could also be a failed pilot bearing or a dry spline interface at disk / driveshaft. With wheels blocked, try engaging the starter with trans in reverse and clutch pedal depressed.
#4
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Sep 2017
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If it sat for a long time, sometimes the clutch disc sticks to the flywheel.
Try starting it in gear, brakes locked down, clutch pedal depressed as Gage recommended above.
Might unstick it. Happened regularly on my ancient Dodge pickup.
Try starting it in gear, brakes locked down, clutch pedal depressed as Gage recommended above.
Might unstick it. Happened regularly on my ancient Dodge pickup.
#5
Thanks all. Will give the break it free test a try (without fuel pump running). She's just been sleeping for a couple of weeks
re broken fork, wouldn't that affect pedal feel? Clutch pedal feel is normal - same weight, same free play as before. Is there anything that can be seen through the inspection hole - I do have one of those snake cameras
re broken fork, wouldn't that affect pedal feel? Clutch pedal feel is normal - same weight, same free play as before. Is there anything that can be seen through the inspection hole - I do have one of those snake cameras
#6
Rennlist Member
I agree with you that a broken fork would feel different. But can easily be confirmed with camera.
I would perhaps bleed the system first. Make sure you are getting full extension of clutch cylinder.
I would perhaps bleed the system first. Make sure you are getting full extension of clutch cylinder.
#7
Update. tl;dr looks like pilot bearing
Tried turning it over (no DME relay) with it in gear, clutch disengaged - almost felt normal so definitely no serious jam. Popped the DME relay back in and started in gear with clutch disengaged - car wanted to creep just a bit but idled fine - so some drag. Letting the clutch out I could feel it start to grab around normal point, so does not appear to be disk related and also rules out hydraulics. Still wouldn't go into gear though. Repeated and rev'd a bit a few times in gear and clutch disengaged, and back to normal for now at least.
Everything says pilot bearing to me, so there's a clutch job in the not too distant future for me now. From the inspection hole, clutch is probably about 50% (eyeballed it as roughly half way between the 18 and 34mm values)
Tried turning it over (no DME relay) with it in gear, clutch disengaged - almost felt normal so definitely no serious jam. Popped the DME relay back in and started in gear with clutch disengaged - car wanted to creep just a bit but idled fine - so some drag. Letting the clutch out I could feel it start to grab around normal point, so does not appear to be disk related and also rules out hydraulics. Still wouldn't go into gear though. Repeated and rev'd a bit a few times in gear and clutch disengaged, and back to normal for now at least.
Everything says pilot bearing to me, so there's a clutch job in the not too distant future for me now. From the inspection hole, clutch is probably about 50% (eyeballed it as roughly half way between the 18 and 34mm values)
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Nowanker (08-21-2023)
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#8
I had this once not long after fitting the Only 944 short shift kit. I hadn’t loctited the spiked bolt that goes into the engagement rod on the gearbox. Worth taking a look to see if it’s worked it’s way loose (under the rubber bellows on top of the gearbox).
#9
Burning Brakes
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Update. tl;dr looks like pilot bearing
Tried turning it over (no DME relay) with it in gear, clutch disengaged - almost felt normal so definitely no serious jam. Popped the DME relay back in and started in gear with clutch disengaged - car wanted to creep just a bit but idled fine - so some drag. Letting the clutch out I could feel it start to grab around normal point, so does not appear to be disk related and also rules out hydraulics. Still wouldn't go into gear though. Repeated and rev'd a bit a few times in gear and clutch disengaged, and back to normal for now at least.
Everything says pilot bearing to me, so there's a clutch job in the not too distant future for me now. From the inspection hole, clutch is probably about 50% (eyeballed it as roughly half way between the 18 and 34mm values)
Tried turning it over (no DME relay) with it in gear, clutch disengaged - almost felt normal so definitely no serious jam. Popped the DME relay back in and started in gear with clutch disengaged - car wanted to creep just a bit but idled fine - so some drag. Letting the clutch out I could feel it start to grab around normal point, so does not appear to be disk related and also rules out hydraulics. Still wouldn't go into gear though. Repeated and rev'd a bit a few times in gear and clutch disengaged, and back to normal for now at least.
Everything says pilot bearing to me, so there's a clutch job in the not too distant future for me now. From the inspection hole, clutch is probably about 50% (eyeballed it as roughly half way between the 18 and 34mm values)
It kills me to see how often people just start throwing parts at a problem before any troubleshooting.
#10
The damage may already be done but I recommend not running it in this condition as the pilot nub of the driveshaft will wear quickly.
#11
Rennlist Member
I know it’s difficult translating troubleshooting and what’s actually happening. So I’m probably missing something.
Not sure why a bad pilot bearing would stop the car from going in gear. A bad pilot bearing from my experience just whines and maybe rattles when bad. It’s more of an annoyance but won’t stop the car from going in gear.
You mentioned the car moved forward when you tried starting with DME relay out? If the car was in gear and you engaged the starter motor then the car should have lurched forward almost violently. I’ve actually moved my car up the driveway into my garage just using the starter motor. Meaning cranking it several times.
Also, a 50% disk is more than enough clutch material.
Again, maybe I’m missing something but sounds like something in the transmission. I believe a previous poster suggested you check the rod and if it’s attached correctly. Also you can try manually changing the gears at the tranny. You should be able to easily feel the gears engage. Does it “feel”normal?
Not sure why a bad pilot bearing would stop the car from going in gear. A bad pilot bearing from my experience just whines and maybe rattles when bad. It’s more of an annoyance but won’t stop the car from going in gear.
You mentioned the car moved forward when you tried starting with DME relay out? If the car was in gear and you engaged the starter motor then the car should have lurched forward almost violently. I’ve actually moved my car up the driveway into my garage just using the starter motor. Meaning cranking it several times.
Also, a 50% disk is more than enough clutch material.
Again, maybe I’m missing something but sounds like something in the transmission. I believe a previous poster suggested you check the rod and if it’s attached correctly. Also you can try manually changing the gears at the tranny. You should be able to easily feel the gears engage. Does it “feel”normal?
#12
Rennlist Member
A pilot bearing is just that, a bearing. The spline or end of the driveshaft is not inserted or placed in the bearing. It goes through the bearing like a ring.
#13
Rennlist Member
I don’t believe this is true. It would take a lot of torque to strip or wear out the teeth (ends) of a driveshaft. Parts would break elsewhere with that much torque.
A pilot bearing is just that, a bearing. The spline or end of the driveshaft is not inserted or placed in the bearing. It goes through the bearing like a ring.
A pilot bearing is just that, a bearing. The spline or end of the driveshaft is not inserted or placed in the bearing. It goes through the bearing like a ring.
#15