350rwhp mark
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350rwhp mark
I need help finding a setup that will put of around 350 rwhp or more.
I was going to go with a Vitesse II kit, but I want to be able to run higher boost w/o running race gas. Talked to John and he said raising the boost will retard the timing and the power curve will not be as strong. With the Vitesse kit, how will I be able to get more power of it?
I want something that I can tune easily, but have access to some power.
What type of standalone should I get? what type of turbo? injectors? Etc.. all information is important. Help me out here.
I was going to go with a Vitesse II kit, but I want to be able to run higher boost w/o running race gas. Talked to John and he said raising the boost will retard the timing and the power curve will not be as strong. With the Vitesse kit, how will I be able to get more power of it?
I want something that I can tune easily, but have access to some power.
What type of standalone should I get? what type of turbo? injectors? Etc.. all information is important. Help me out here.
#2
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Link2, 60-1 HIFI with stage 3 wheel and replica # 8 hotside, and any injectors over 65lb should do it nicely in regards to the specifics you asked about.
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I was going to go with a Vitesse II kit, but I want to be able to run higher boost w/o running race gas.
Raising the boost will always promote detonation. Retarding timing is a viable way to reduce the detonation threshold to run more boost. Retarded timing will cost you power, but the more detonation resistance will allow you to run more boost which will much outweigh the drawbacks of the timing retard.
It sounds like you are looking for a way to combat detonation. Why not try supplementing the Vitesse Kit with Toluene or water injection when you want to run more boost. Going for a different turbo is not the best way to go about it.
#6
Race Director
I dont think you need to be asking that question. You need to have a game plan on how to best achieve 350 (RWHP?). More specifically, where you want the power. Why 350? Would you prefer a quicker car at 300 that has a larger area under the curve over a peaky 350? If you just want high numbers, just go buy the biggest of everything you can afford.
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Air/Fuel Ratio is an excellent way to combat detonation. The magic number for high boost is somewhere around 12.3 to 12.5 to 1.
Since its a delicate and somewhat dangerous thing to mess with, It may not be a good Idea to arbitrarily adjust the air/fuel ratio without a wideband 02 Sensor to really let you know what you are looking at. Its more complicated than just adding a higher flowing component to the fuel system.
I would think you'd be ok with an adjustable FPR if you had a Wideband 02 sensor to measure your AFR. You could adjust pressure as a function of your desired AFR. This is at best a shotgun approach, since you cannot massage the Fuel curve on the axis of RPM or load.
If you really want full control of the fuel curve, a Standalone engine management is a must. I am an advocate of the Link System. I run it on my car, and there are lot of other who do as well. There would be plenty of help for you on the list if you go this route. Also, Neil at Performance Developments (Link Dealer) is one of the most respected and helpful tuners out there.
If I can make a judgement about you, by your posts you don't seem like the kind of guy who would be happy with a "Kit". You seem to have the attitude of a tweaker. Standalone is the best route for people like you (and me)
As with anything else, there is a learning curve to tuning standalone. It is not beyond anyone's ability on this list to tune a standalone engine management system. It can be intimidating, but if you start out with a safe base map, and tune from there, anybody can get it.
Its mostly trial and error:
1. Datalog
2. Adjust
3. Repeat
Do some searches and you'll come up with alot of useful information on generally any facet of modification.
-Joe
Since its a delicate and somewhat dangerous thing to mess with, It may not be a good Idea to arbitrarily adjust the air/fuel ratio without a wideband 02 Sensor to really let you know what you are looking at. Its more complicated than just adding a higher flowing component to the fuel system.
I would think you'd be ok with an adjustable FPR if you had a Wideband 02 sensor to measure your AFR. You could adjust pressure as a function of your desired AFR. This is at best a shotgun approach, since you cannot massage the Fuel curve on the axis of RPM or load.
If you really want full control of the fuel curve, a Standalone engine management is a must. I am an advocate of the Link System. I run it on my car, and there are lot of other who do as well. There would be plenty of help for you on the list if you go this route. Also, Neil at Performance Developments (Link Dealer) is one of the most respected and helpful tuners out there.
If I can make a judgement about you, by your posts you don't seem like the kind of guy who would be happy with a "Kit". You seem to have the attitude of a tweaker. Standalone is the best route for people like you (and me)
As with anything else, there is a learning curve to tuning standalone. It is not beyond anyone's ability on this list to tune a standalone engine management system. It can be intimidating, but if you start out with a safe base map, and tune from there, anybody can get it.
Its mostly trial and error:
1. Datalog
2. Adjust
3. Repeat
Do some searches and you'll come up with alot of useful information on generally any facet of modification.
-Joe
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#8
Race Director
If you end up with a system similar to mine, I can forward you a map or two to help tune it. If you are starting from a stock car, you do have a long road ahead of you. Though it is a fun road. I would not expect you to hit 350WHP anytime soon given all the work that should be done. Sending it away to have a kit bolted on is a very boring way of getting there. You will have much more personal investment and satisfaction tweeking yourself.
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Your right Joe, I get bored quick. I'm always looking to push the boundary everytime.
I wouldn't run a car with so much power without a wideband setup or standalone. I would get the kit if I had the ability to push more power, but I don't know how limited it is.
I want a setup that I can critique and add-on so I can get more power with extras.
I wouldn't run a car with so much power without a wideband setup or standalone. I would get the kit if I had the ability to push more power, but I don't know how limited it is.
I want a setup that I can critique and add-on so I can get more power with extras.
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Sending it away to have a kit bolted on is a very boring way of getting there. You will have much more personal investment and satisfaction tweeking yourself.
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I want a setup that I can critique and add-on so I can get more power with extras.
A problem you may run into is turbo selection. What fits excellently for one setup will be choked at higher rpms on another setup, and boost threshold will come on to late on yet another setup. Its not economical to change turbos out as much as you will change other mods. So it stands to reason that the modifications should center around your turbo selection.
Its easy to say "I want this much power." What you really need to ask yourself is how long you are willing to wait for boost....how high you are willing to go on the rpm at which it will spool. Some guys want instant boost, and some don't so much mind a higher boost threshold. When you know which one you are, you can begin to flesh out a realistic power goal, and start playing around with different Turbine/Compressor combinations to achieve it. Like NZ said, if you want a dyno queen you've got an easy task: Just buy the biggest of everything. It gets complicated to make big power and still retain the fun around town that made you love the car in the first place.
Oh, and definitely do Nothing before you pick up a copy of Maximum Boost by Corky Bell. You can get it at Amazon.com
#12
Drifting
I recently put a turbo on an 89 car and made 360 rwhp @ 1.2 bar on pump gas. No sweat. This is a car with 200k on the odometer. With the exception of the turbo and the APE mass air kit, with a custome DME chip. The car is otherwise all stock.
An aftermarket intercooler would have certainly helped.
An aftermarket intercooler would have certainly helped.
#14
Race Director
Interesting to see the 370cc injectors make 360HP! It would be interesting to see how the stock waste gate also handled the 1.2bar to produce those figures, got a boost curve?
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Re: 350rwhp mark
Originally posted by v944god
I need help finding a setup that will put of around 350 rwhp or more.
I was going to go with a Vitesse II kit, but I want to be able to run higher boost w/o running race gas. Talked to John and he said raising the boost will retard the timing and the power curve will not be as strong. With the Vitesse kit, how will I be able to get more power of it?
I need help finding a setup that will put of around 350 rwhp or more.
I was going to go with a Vitesse II kit, but I want to be able to run higher boost w/o running race gas. Talked to John and he said raising the boost will retard the timing and the power curve will not be as strong. With the Vitesse kit, how will I be able to get more power of it?
In order to run higher boost with pump gas, you have to retard the timing (from the standard chips). So at the same boost level (15psi) with the retarded timing the power curve will not be the same as with the more advanced timing...
I sent you an email earlier today, it would have been nice if you responded!!!