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Thank you, Chris! And thanks to everyone for your input!
I see installing a questionable block that fails as a worst case scenario for me with this. I’m in SC, but can ship the block if necessary. Any recommendations on a company to recoat and get it back to original specs?
Millennium Technologies in Wisconsin. A 944 block is light enough it can go via regular UPS. The Nikasil process will give you a prefect finish that is a lot stronger than the Alusil.
The block is now at Millenium, and the verdict is they can get the cylinders back to 100 mm. Positive. they pulled all of the studs from the block. Are these generally okay to reuse if they came out ok? I’m planning to replace the head studs, maybe with ARP. What about the girdle studs, balance shaft cover studs? The pulley and other studs on the front of the engine? Generally okay to re-use, or better to find new?
One of the pistons is pretty gouged, so I’m on the hunt for one good OE piston, and plan to re-ring and re-use the other 3.
all new bearings and gaskets are here and ready for install when the time comes.
also planning to send the turbo (although it looks really good) to Evergreen for their bolt-in replacement rebuild. The one below the raptor. Looking for a little quicker boost and maybe a little more HP, but no need for massive HP here. Stock Injectors off to Witchhunter. I’ve been debating about going to the Vitesse MAF system which requires bigger injectors, but right now I’m trying to hold off the snowball effect, and keep it fairly close to stock and reliable. Maybe upgrade to the MAF later.
first time doing this, so please chime in if you see any significant concerns with this path!
Also planning to send the turbo (although it looks really good) to Evergreen for their bolt-in replacement rebuild. The one below the raptor. Looking for a little quicker boost and maybe a little more HP, but no need for massive HP here.
If you're planning a little bit more boost, say 15 psi you will need to have a way to meet the new fuel requirement and increase boost. I have the completely stock Evergreen Turbo rebuild and wish I would have done the one you are considering.
Here's what I have and honestly its pretty quick for little money. Rouge A tune that uses the stock AFM and a manual boost controller set to about 15 psi. This setup passed California SMOG as well. It's nothing fancy but I believe you will be very satisfied. I think there is a supply issue right now from LR for the A tune but not 100% sure if they still don't have any in stock.
A tune kit = $330?
MBC = super cheap to about $100
3 Bar Fuel Press Regulator = $100
Thanks
Mike G.
Last edited by Mike Goebel; 10-27-2021 at 06:26 AM.
If you're planning a little bit more boost, say 15 psi you will need to have a way to meet the new fuel requirement and increase boost. I have the completely stock Evergreen Turbo rebuild and wish I would have done the one you are considering.
Here's what I have and honestly its pretty quick for little money. Rouge A tune that uses the stock AFM and a manual boost controller set to about 15 psi. This setup passed California SMOG as well. It's nothing fancy but I believe you will be very satisfied. I think there is a supply issue right now from LR for the A tune but not 100% sure if they still don't have any in stock.
A tune kit = $330?
MBC = super cheap to about $100
3 Bar Fuel Press Regulator = $100
Thanks
Mike G.
thanks Mike!
I currently have (from before the engine failure) a 3.0 FPR, MBC set to 15, and Max chips. I need to learn a little more about the turbo I’m considering, to see if it requires a re-chip, or a new engine mgmt system and injectors.
I need to learn a little more about the turbo I’m considering, to see if it requires a re-chip, or a new engine mgmt system and injectors.
If you are still targeting 15 psi boost you will definitely not need new larger injectors or a new engine management system. The only change that will occur is that if this new compressor wheel is more efficient the mass flow at the same 15 psi will be increased due to less heat being added to the air (denser air). My guess it will not be a large difference tho. The other issue is that Evergreen can not supply a new compressor map so you can't actually determine the improved compressor efficiency. But you can still use an O2 sensor in the exhaust and see where you are A/F wise. But I need to mention that's the beauty of the Rouge A tune, it can adjust for different boost pressure settings up to a certain point. Not 100% sure where it stops being able to adjust for more boost but I think its fine for anything under 18ish psi. I'd never run over 16 psi anyway for longevity reasons.
I definitely intend to keep it at 15 psi. Much more concerned with longevity than more HP. For my needs, the car was plenty fast when it was healthy.
I did speak with Charlie at Evergreen today, again. The turbocharger we are discussing uses the same housings, but and upgraded billet compressor and turbine, which is supposed to yield 20% more flow. I was asking for quicker boost, and this seems to be the way to get that.
I do tend to shy away from too many changes at once, so retaining the Max chips and stock injectors is attractive. At least until the engine is back in and running. It’s hard to troubleshoot any issues when too many things change at once.
I definitely intend to keep it at 15 psi. Much more concerned with longevity than more HP. For my needs, the car was plenty fast when it was healthy.
I did speak with Charlie at Evergreen today, again. The turbocharger we are discussing uses the same housings, but and upgraded billet compressor and turbine, which is supposed to yield 20% more flow. I was asking for quicker boost, and this seems to be the way to get that.
I do tend to shy away from too many changes at once, so retaining the Max chips and stock injectors is attractive. At least until the engine is back in and running. It’s hard to troubleshoot any issues when too many things change at once.
With a decent turbo and upgraded injectors I have built quite a few 2.5 engines that made over 300/300 to the wheels at 15psi. Most with stand alone systems to get the tune perfect. Some of the other stock ecu options can accomplish this too - I don’t have much experience with them since I don’t trust too many stock wiring harnesses anymore!
if you really want to drive it hard consider new pistons (stock pistons are ridiculously heavy - huge stress at higher rpm. I used to reuse stock rods but now that they are all over 30 years old it’s getting harder to trust them, they may have lead a hard life! Yeah, it adds up to a bunch more$ but considering the labor snd parts expense it starts to make more sense to do it right and do it once!
With a decent turbo and upgraded injectors I have built quite a few 2.5 engines that made over 300/300 to the wheels at 15psi. Most with stand alone systems to get the tune perfect. Some of the other stock ecu options can accomplish this too - I don’t have much experience with them since I don’t trust too many stock wiring harnesses anymore!
if you really want to drive it hard consider new pistons (stock pistons are ridiculously heavy - huge stress at higher rpm. I used to reuse stock rods but now that they are all over 30 years old it’s getting harder to trust them, they may have lead a hard life! Yeah, it adds up to a bunch more$ but considering the labor snd parts expense it starts to make more sense to do it right and do it once!
so if you were to replace these pistons and / or rods, strictly for a street car with moderate HP, assuming the current set up outside of this and trying to minimize cost, what pistons and or rods would you go with?
so if you were to replace these pistons and / or rods, strictly for a street car with moderate HP, assuming the current set up outside of this and trying to minimize cost, what pistons and or rods would you go with?
since you are getting the block nikasil coated you can use any piston (alusil requires a special coating). I like Mahle pistons but they are not cheap. Wossner used to have some affordable versions - check with Karl at racers edge). Any of the after market rods will work fir your project, Molnar are usually the best price.
since you are getting the block nikasil coated you can use any piston (alusil requires a special coating). I like Mahle pistons but they are not cheap. Wossner used to have some affordable versions - check with Karl at racers edge). Any of the after market rods will work fir your project, Molnar are usually the best price.
My car has been a street car with only 64k on the clock. Before this, all looked good, so I think I’ll stay with the stock rods. Considering the pistons though. If I can get a decent price selling the stock pistons the up charge shouldn’t be too bad.
since you are getting the block nikasil coated you can use any piston (alusil requires a special coating).
I don't think you can use a piston designed for Alusil in a block treated with Nikasil, at least not those made by Mahle as the Mahle pistons on the LN Engineering website say only for use in Alusil blocks, and they specifically say not for Nikasil. I think by "any piston" you meant any normal aluminum piston without a special coating. So, wouldn't this preclude reusing stock 951 pistons in a Nikasil coated block?
Maybe the most exciting part of this project… rebuilt turbo from Evergreen! Charlie turned it around in one day! We went with a mild-upgrade, for quicker boost, bolt in.
BTW, Chris, I took your advise and have some new Wossner pistons coming. Using the stock rods, as they look good and are the forged type.
10-10-2021, 10:34 AM
