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Rebuild time(?)

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Old 12-03-2021 | 06:49 PM
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Nothing better than car part’s for Xmas 👍👍
Old 12-03-2021 | 08:02 PM
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Would have been better if they had sent back my studs, like they were supposed to. Bit frustrated about that right now.
Old 12-03-2021 | 08:06 PM
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I had the same problem all the girder bolts gone but got back three sets later. Replace studs with race ware. If you need a factory set I have several 👍 if needed
Old 12-03-2021 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by RKT951
I had the same problem all the girder bolts gone but got back three sets later. Replace studs with race ware. If you need a factory set I have several 👍 if needed
I appreciate that. I have an extra block and have been slowly extracting the studs from that. If I’d known the stock studs wouldn’t be coming back, I would have ordered a set of ARP for the head and girdle. May just order some now, or plug away this weekend and see how it goes.
Old 12-03-2021 | 09:22 PM
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Am I seeing this correctly, that the only main bearing / girdle studs available are raceware, for $400+? Any other options for new sets?
Old 12-04-2021 | 11:30 AM
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Yes only available from RW I did the research ARP makes head studs only. RW direct $580 LR $450
Old 12-04-2021 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by RKT951
Yes only available from RW I did the research ARP makes head studs only. RW direct $580 LR $450
Finished my wrestling match with the girdle studs on the spare block, and they are now in the go-to refinished block. All but one, which is strangely longer than the rest, and sits above the girdle more than it should, so it needs to be replaced. shooting you a PM about those spares you mentioned.

edit. Disregard. Figured the different length out. Apparently two longer studs go at the rear. One was out of place.

Last edited by Glue Guy; 12-05-2021 at 10:03 AM.
Old 12-04-2021 | 10:03 PM
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Should loctite be used on the girdle / main bearing studs? Seems like there was some on those I just extracted.

I thought I remember reading that just oil should be used, but am also seeing guidance to use red loctite.
Old 12-05-2021 | 02:51 PM
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Progress! Amazing how much work it takes to get from bare block to this, but is what it is. Waiting on the bride to get back with a small nap roller and tray so I can get the short block sealed up!




Old 12-05-2021 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Glue Guy
Progress! Amazing how much work it takes to get from bare block to this, but is what it is. Waiting on the bride to get back with a small nap roller and tray so I can get the short block sealed up!


small nap roller....you really are following the manual! I just smear it around with my finger. Once its torqued up all the extra will be flattened out or squeezed out!
Old 12-05-2021 | 04:25 PM
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Short nap is 👍 coming from the glue world of aerospace composites I always do both surfaces to not have any bonding surfaces dry of adhesive,574 Ever spit on dry sand 😁
Old 12-05-2021 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by RKT951
Short nap is 👍 coming from the glue world of aerospace composites I always do both surfaces to not have any bonding surfaces dry of adhesive,574 Ever spit on dry sand 😁
well it is an anaerobic sealer - wont start to cure until you clamp it down tight! if you put a bead down the middle it will get squished out both sides - but I do admire your 'adherence' to the factory procedure!
Old 12-05-2021 | 04:50 PM
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Yes! LOL

I want it done right the first time. Thanks for all the guidance, by the way!







Old 12-05-2021 | 05:06 PM
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Next step, pistons and rod bearings. Would do it today, but I expected the new pistons to have the rings already on them, and they didn’t show up that way, so need some clarification before moving to that step.
Old 12-05-2021 | 05:12 PM
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ALL pistons have to have their ring gaps fitted. I have never gotten an aftermarket set of pistons / rings that did not require a lot of filing to get them to spec. with out the special powered ring gapper its a long and tedious process.


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