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Some days I put my idiocy on display on a public forum…
I remembered a time when I had a similar problem with the oil pressure gauge. Turned out at the time I had the wires to the sensor on backward. Pegged the gauge.
So, tonight I went out and switched them, and got a normal reading with the needle moving gradually up to 5 as it should. Idiot light went off.
in my defense, I have the Lindsey update wires, which are both white. Not that I wouldn’t have mixed them up anyway, but in this case that was it.
mixture of embarrassment and relief. Today the relief outweighs the embarrassment!
Some days I put my idiocy on display on a public forum…
I remembered a time when I had a similar problem with the oil pressure gauge. Turned out at the time I had the wires to the sensor on backward. Pegged the gauge.
So, tonight I went out and switched them, and got a normal reading with the needle moving gradually up to 5 as it should. Idiot light went off.
in my defense, I have the Lindsey update wires, which are both white. Not that I wouldn’t have mixed them up anyway, but in this case that was it.
mixture of embarrassment and relief. Today the relief outweighs the embarrassment!
funny, just saw the post in my e mail and was going to say “ switch your wires in gauge” lol….
run the car for a bit.. and change your oil. The metallic would be concerning.. with the new oil in, run it then take the filter off and cut it apart to see whats inside..
Had some time to work on the 951 today. Started with a radiator pressure to try and identify a slow leak that showed up after the rebuild. Found a slight leak on this upper water pump to radiator hose.
A faster leak on the drivers top front of the radiator, that seemed to stop leaking after a bit. And what appears to be a leak from the water pump. Some drops of coolant on the underside of front of the engine, and a small puddle on top of the water pump, but this never seemed to change, and I didn’t see a source leak. That one was very slow. To my knowledge, none of these leaks existed before the rebuild, but that’s life I guess.
we put it all back together and then ran the car for 2 minutes, followed by another 18 minutes. Moved throttle up and down as it went. Ran well, although a bit rough at first. Smoke / steam in abundance from the headers at first. I remember the same thing from the last time I pulled the head. Seemed to be mostly condensation burning off. Went away after a bit. Then changed the oil. With the 20 minutes on the fresh oil I just drained, it was a light brownish gray color. Nothing substantial on the drain plug, only a small amount of what appeared like grease. Haven’t cut the filter open yet. refilled with break in oil.
we then pulled the radiator so I can take it to a local shop Monday for them to look at and possibly repair.
the water pump is 2 years old, and obviously just got a new gasket. Not sure if there was really a leak there, but I’m thinking now about addressing that potential leak. Maybe I needed some liquid gasket as well? Maybe go and double check torque on the bolts???
edit: I think I found the issue. Bad clamp on the engine coolant neck hose. Found a drop of coolant under it. Likely made its way down to the bottom of the engine. Easy fix. Hopefully that was it.
also found what appears to be a leak from the clutch slave.
overall, progress being made. Got a few items on the checklist, but not so bad considering.
Ended up ordering a new radiator yesterday. Decided on the Wizard Cooling part, which had positive reviews. Same cost as OEM, but more capacity and all aluminum. Would have preferred not to drop another $650 right now, but it’s best to do it right the first time. Will post pics when it comes in.
also found the clutch slave to be leaking, so we have that and the coolant stuff to address. Parts all on order. Hopefully this is the last set of parts before this bucket is back on the road!
Ended up ordering a new radiator yesterday. Decided on the Wizard Cooling part, which had positive reviews. Same cost as OEM, but more capacity and all aluminum. Would have preferred not to drop another $650 right now, but it’s best to do it right the first time. Will post pics when it comes in.
also found the clutch slave to be leaking, so we have that and the coolant stuff to address. Parts all on order. Hopefully this is the last set of parts before this bucket is back on the road!
Couple updates on this thread. Following start up, I had an issues with a failed oil cooler hose, so ended up rebuilding those, and then a leak showed up at the water pump. It was from a stud. I hadn’t used sealant on the threads. In any event, I ended up pulling the cooler to add sealant, replaced and sealed the gasket, as it leaked also, and replaced the belts with Gates Racing TB and Balance shaft belt.
The car is running great, and so far is dry underneath. Knock on wood. this leads me to the next, and hopefully final (yeah, I know), phase of this project, which is the engine management system. Turns out the turbo rebuild landed me an upgraded turbo S turbocharger, which now has a billet compressor wheel, and lightweight high-flow turbine. Hope I got all that right…. In any event, it’s no longer stock and should have much greater flow than my old stock ‘86 turbocharger.
to avoid the potential of running lean and destroying my lovely new engine, the plan right now is to go with a Vitesse MAF and the corresponding larger injectors.
I plan to sell the current injectors, which were just cleaned and tested out good by Witchhunter, and the current Lindsey 270 HP kit chips to help fund this step, along with whatever other parts I have laying around that are worthy.
01-16-2022, 09:38 PM
