What Metal are M030 Spindles?
#2
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The "flat" in the threaded section of the spindle is to locate tab of the washer that goes behind the spindle nut.
Last edited by Droops83; 02-25-2021 at 12:08 AM.
#3
Thefu
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: 28*09'58.16" N, 82*35'17.07" W
Posts: 19,934
Received 658 Likes
on
330 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Not having any made. Just working on my suspension. Have to get them drilled to accept 19mm ballpoint pins, would be nice to let machinist know.
Not the threaded portion, the steering arm, just before it's attachment to the tie rod.
Not the threaded portion, the steering arm, just before it's attachment to the tie rod.
#4
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Flats. My guess.. Counter hold the spindle when tightening or loosening the nut. Otherwise your up against your rack / steering lock
but most people just use an impact
but most people just use an impact
The following users liked this post:
SeaCay (02-26-2021)
#5
Thefu
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: 28*09'58.16" N, 82*35'17.07" W
Posts: 19,934
Received 658 Likes
on
330 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Makes sense.
No guess on material? One reason I ask is that they don't corrode (at least in my workshop observations). I know they aren't stainless, but there's some kinda metallurgy magicianship going on here.
#6
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics...tainless-steel
The following users liked this post:
SeaCay (02-26-2021)
#7
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I always assumed they are a type of cast iron. They can corrode. I highly doubt they are stainless; that would be extremely costly and not sure of the benefit.
Never understood the overboring on the spindle. You're taking out 1mm of material from an area that gets huge loads. The spindle is now weaker and will be more likely to break.
If you're searching for strength, the whole system is no good by modern standards.
Never understood the overboring on the spindle. You're taking out 1mm of material from an area that gets huge loads. The spindle is now weaker and will be more likely to break.
If you're searching for strength, the whole system is no good by modern standards.
Last edited by FrenchToast; 02-26-2021 at 06:41 PM.
Trending Topics
#9
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I understand the 19mm and therefore the re-boring. But without extensive testing, there's no way of knowing if it's beneficial. You're strengthening one part but directly weakening another.
Last edited by FrenchToast; 02-26-2021 at 06:36 PM.
#14
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Respectfully, saying they've been tested doesn't mean much without specifying what kind. Have they undergone destructive testing with multiple samples? Have they been pushed on a jig to the limit? Then the whole system tested by a professional?
I've heard of an overbored one cracking. I would specify how but don't know.
I've heard of an overbored one cracking. I would specify how but don't know.
Last edited by FrenchToast; 02-27-2021 at 12:48 PM.
#15
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My car builder insisted I buy new M030 spindles before boring them to accept the 19mm pins - which I've coupled with RE billet hubs and billet aluminium aa-arms.
He felt that with the loads from rose-jointed suspension & R tyres the existing 134,000 mile spindles would be a risk.
He felt that with the loads from rose-jointed suspension & R tyres the existing 134,000 mile spindles would be a risk.