Suspension
#2
Racer
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Those are heavy front springs. Do you know what size torsion bars are at the rear, or coilover conversion? I think you want to know that to make decisions about shock adjustment. Also, what’s the intention for the car? Track, autocross or street?
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
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Rear torsion bars are original stock 87 951which came with 474 Sport Susp. from factory. That set was completely shot so on a budget I picked up the set of used front struts with springs already assembled along with the rears shocks, not coilover . Both Koni single adjustable. They were to good a deal to pass up $400.00 shipped. they were supposedly used on a Lemons car for one race. They are painted black with yellow showing and part numbers are legit. I think they were painted so they would pass inspection and meet race regs.
I realize the springs are a bit heavy for primarily street driving with a handful of track days. I'm simply trying to adjust the rears (full stiff??) to match with the fronts as close as I can, if at all, without going to rear coilovers. If bigger torsion bars would help? I could probably try that.
I realize the springs are a bit heavy for primarily street driving with a handful of track days. I'm simply trying to adjust the rears (full stiff??) to match with the fronts as close as I can, if at all, without going to rear coilovers. If bigger torsion bars would help? I could probably try that.
#4
Rennlist Member
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You are getting confused with shock absorber adjustment and spring rate. You cannot balance 450lb front springs by adjusting the rear shock absorber settings.
450lb fronts are fairly heavy springs for road use but not impossible if you don't mind a very firm ride and the roads in your area are in relatively good condition. But you will definitely need an effective rear spring rate to match the front or you will have a horribly handling car particularly under heavy braking. You options are to supplement the current torsion bars with 200-250lb coilover springs or change existing torsion bars for 30 - 31mm bars.
Hope this helps.
450lb fronts are fairly heavy springs for road use but not impossible if you don't mind a very firm ride and the roads in your area are in relatively good condition. But you will definitely need an effective rear spring rate to match the front or you will have a horribly handling car particularly under heavy braking. You options are to supplement the current torsion bars with 200-250lb coilover springs or change existing torsion bars for 30 - 31mm bars.
Hope this helps.
#5
Burning Brakes
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You need softer springs 250 lb. 400 lb springs and up need much larger torsion bars. So unless you're planning on swapping 30 mm torsion bars in there all you are going to do is understeer
#6
Racer
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Thanks for the input everyone.Short of doing whats really necessary. I'm just asking if adjusting current rear shocks either way will help in anyway with handling?
#7
Racer
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Is there a way to add helper springs to your rear shocks to work with the torsion bars? Or just buy huge torsion bars and experience the unique pleasure of installing and indexing bars on a 944.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
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Like everyone is saying, you need to lower the front spring rates to around 200-220 then turn your dampers at the rear full stiff and you should be good.
#9
Rennlist Member
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Yet stock springs and setup allows for a ton of roll. Perhaps look to updating the whole system if you can afford to make a wholesale change. If not, yes, need to go back lower spring rate on fronts.
#10
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Yes, you might think there'd be understeer, but it depends on your driving style. I tend to drive hard into a corner, trail brake, and sling the rear end around. The trick is be on the edge of oversteer under those conditions.
I agree that 450 up front and stock rear would make it hard to rotate a 944.
Are we talking street or track?
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
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Pretty much street with maybe a couple SCCA Track Nights at Pocono. I've been looking for advice on what I can do to the rear without messing with the front. If I was going to DE a lot I would invest in best springs for the front to match the rear Koni's or upgrade the rear with what's best to go with the front and of course I know changing out the front springs would be simplest and cheapest way to go. I've had that set-up on a different 951 and it played well on the track.
#12
#13
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Don’t due that. 450 front is 409 effective with 126 effective stock rear. That’s a 3.57 ratio. That is terrible. It’s supposed to be closer to 1.0. That car will understeer right into a tree on a turn. For comparison, stock is .92. KW’s (which are understeer prone) are 1.26. The general rule is over 250 you have to adjust the rear somehow. Even with 250, it still will favor understeer but at least it won't kill anyone.
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
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Confirmed front springs are actually Weltmeister progressive rate 250 lb 1" lowering, not 450lb. So for now I'm planning on bigger rear sway bar? and Koni Sports on full stiff in the rear.
#15
Rennlist Member
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The 19mm adjustable M030 rear sway bar is a nice upgrade.
The original Porsche version has three settings (holes). Lindsey Racing makes a similar bar with five.
I have the original M030 and you can definitely feel the difference in balance between settings. Of course it's relative to the rest of your setup but can help balance a car front to rear.
I would set the car neutral and take it to the track. Get a few laps in and make one change at a time to understand the changes. Neutral to full soft to full stiff, what do those settings offer at various parts of the track, keep good notes.
It's all a compromise with lots of variables. In addition to alignment settings there's, air temp., track temp, tire temp (inside/middle/outside), tire pressure (cold/hot), shock settings (front/rear) sway bar settings (front/rear)...and of course driver skill to be putting down consistent laps.
The original Porsche version has three settings (holes). Lindsey Racing makes a similar bar with five.
I have the original M030 and you can definitely feel the difference in balance between settings. Of course it's relative to the rest of your setup but can help balance a car front to rear.
I would set the car neutral and take it to the track. Get a few laps in and make one change at a time to understand the changes. Neutral to full soft to full stiff, what do those settings offer at various parts of the track, keep good notes.
It's all a compromise with lots of variables. In addition to alignment settings there's, air temp., track temp, tire temp (inside/middle/outside), tire pressure (cold/hot), shock settings (front/rear) sway bar settings (front/rear)...and of course driver skill to be putting down consistent laps.